The High Mountains of Portugal

  Tomas looks over his right shoulder. Tackling the three steps down into the large courtyard, he hurries to him and spins round next to him. They shake hands.

  "Uncle Martim, how good to see you. You are well?"

  "How could I not be? I have the great pleasure of seeing my one and only nephew."

  Tomas is about to inquire about his aunt again but his uncle waves these social niceties aside. "Enough, enough. Well, what do you think of my Iberian rhinoceros?" he asks, pointing. "It is the pride of my menagerie!"

  The beast in question stands in the middle of the courtyard, not far from the lean and tall Sabio, its keeper. Tomas gazes at it. Though the light is soft and milky, wrapping it in a flattering gauze, it is in his eyes a farcical monstrosity. "It is...magnificent," he replies.

  Despite its ungraceful appearance, he has always lamented the fate of the animal that once roamed the rural corners of his country. Was the Iberian rhinoceros's last bastion not, in fact, the High Mountains of Portugal? Curious, the hold the animal has had on the Portuguese imagination. Human advancement spelled its end. It was, in a sense, run over by modernity. It was hunted and hounded to extinction and vanished, as ridiculous as an old idea--only to be mourned and missed the moment it was gone. Now it is fodder for fado, a stock character in that peculiar form of Portuguese melancholy, saudade. Indeed, thinking of the long-gone creature, Tomas is overcome with saudade. He is, as the expression goes, tao docemente triste quanto um rinoceronte, as sweetly sad as a rhinoceros.

  His uncle is pleased with his answer. Tomas observes him with a degree of apprehension. Upon a solid frame of bones his father's brother has padded his body with wealth, a layer of portliness he carries with jocular pride. He lives in Lapa, in the lap of luxury. He spends staggering sums of money on every new bauble. Some years ago his fancy was caught by the bicycle, a two-wheeled transportation device propelled by the rider's own legs. On the hilly, cobbled streets of Lisbon, a bicycle is not merely impractical but dangerous. It can be used safely only on the pathways of parks, a Sunday amusement in which the rider goes round and round in circles, annoying walkers and frightening their children and dogs. His uncle has a whole stable of French Peugeot bicycles. Then he went on to procure motorized bicycles that went even faster than pedal bicycles, besides making much noise. And here is a representative of the latest of his expensive curios, recently acquired. "But Uncle," he adds carefully, "I see only an automobile."

  "Only, you say?" responds his uncle. "Well, this technical wonder is the eternal spirit of our nation brought to life again." He places a foot on the automobile's footboard, a narrow platform that runs along its edge between the front and back wheels. "I hesitated. Which should I lend you? My Darracq, my De Dion-Bouton, my Unic, my Peugeot, my Daimler, perhaps even my American Oldsmobile? The choice was difficult. Finally, because you are my dear nephew, in memory of my sorely missed brother, I settled on the champion of the lot. This is a brand new four-cylinder Renault, a masterpiece of engineering. Look at it! It is a creation that not only shines with the might of logic but sings with the allure of poetry. Let us be rid of the animal that so befouls our city! The automobile never needs to sleep--can the horse beat that? You can't compare their power output, either. This Renault is assessed to have a fourteen-horsepower engine, but that is a strict, conservative estimate. More likely it produces twenty horsepower of drive. And a mechanical horsepower is more powerful than an animal horsepower, so imagine a stagecoach with thirty horses tethered to it. Can you see that, the thirty horses lined up in rows of two, stamping and chafing at the bit? Well, you don't have to imagine it: It's right here before your eyes. Those thirty horses have been compressed into a metal box fitted between these front wheels. The performance! The economy! Never has old fire been put to such brilliant new use. And where in the automobile is the offal that so offends with the horse? There is none, only a puff of smoke that vanishes in the air. An automobile is as harmless as a cigarette. Mark my words, Tomas: This century will be remembered as the century of the puff of smoke!"

  His uncle beams, filled to the brim with pride and joy in his Gallic gewgaw. Tomas remains tight-lipped. He does not share his uncle's infatuation with automobiles. A few of these newfangled devices have lately found their way onto the streets of Lisbon. Amidst the bustling animal traffic of the city, all in all not so noisy, these automobiles now roar by like huge, buzzing insects, a nuisance offensive to the ears, painful to the eyes, and malodorous to the nose. He sees no beauty in them. His uncle's burgundy-coloured copy is no exception. It lacks in any elegance or symmetry. Its cabin appears to him absurdly oversized compared to the puny stable at the aft into which are stuffed the thirty horses. The metal of the thing, and there is much of it, glares shiny and hard--inhumanly, he would say.

  He would happily be carted by a conventional beast of burden to the High Mountains of Portugal, but he is making the trip over the Christmas season, cumulating holiday time that is his due with the few days he begged, practically on his knees, from the chief curator at the museum. That gives him only ten days to accomplish his mission. The distance is too great, his time too limited. An animal won't do. And so he has to avail himself of his uncle's kindly offered but unsightly invention.

  With a clattering of doors, Damiano enters the courtyard bearing a tray with coffee and fig pastries. A stand for the tray is produced, as are two chairs. Tomas and his uncle sit down. Hot milk is poured, sugar is measured out. The moment is set for small talk, but instead he asks directly, "So how does it work, Uncle?"

  He asks because he does not want to contemplate what is just beyond the automobile, fringing the wall of his uncle's estate, next to the path that leads to the servants' quarters: the row of orange trees. For it is there that his son used to wait for him, hiding behind a not-so-thick tree trunk. Gaspar would flee, shrieking, as soon as his father's eyes caught him. Tomas would run after the little clown, pretending that his aunt and uncle, or their many spies, did not see him go down the path, just as the servants pretended not to see him entering their quarters. Yes, better to talk about automobiles than to look at those orange trees.

  "Ah, well you should ask! Let me show you the marvel within," replies his uncle, leaping up out of his seat. Tomas follows him to the front of the automobile as he unhooks the small, rounded metal hood and tips it forward on its hinges. Revealed are tangles of pipes and bulbous protuberances of shiny metal.

  "Admire!" his uncle commands. "An in-line four-cylinder engine with a 3,054 cc capacity. A beauty and a feat. Notice the order of progress: engine, radiator, friction clutch, sliding-pinion gearbox, drive to the rear axle. Under this alignment, the future will take place. But first let me explain to you the wonder of the internal combustion engine."

  He points with a finger that aims to make visible the magic that takes place within the opaque walls of the engine. "Here moto-naphtha vapour is sprayed by the carburetor into the explosion chambers. The magnet activates the sparking plugs; the vapour is thereby ignited and explodes. The pistons, here, are pushed down, which..."

  Tomas understands nothing. He stares dumbly. At the end of the triumphant explanations, his uncle reaches in to pick up a thick booklet lying on the seat of the driving compartment. He places it in his nephew's hand. "This is the automobile manual. It will make clear what you might not have understood."

  Tomas peers at the manual. "It's in French, Uncle."

  "Yes. Renault Freres is a French company."

  "But--"

  "I've included a French-Portuguese dictionary in your kit. You must take utmost care to lubricate the automobile properly."

  "Lubricate it?" His uncle might as well be speaking French.

  Lobo ignores his quizzical expression. "Aren't the mudguards handsome? Guess what they're made of?" he says, slapping one. "Elephant ears! I had them custom-made as a souvenir from Angola. The same with the outside walls of the cabin: only the finest-grain elephant hide."

  "What's this?" asks Tomas.


  "The horn. To warn, to alert, to remind, to coax, to complain." His uncle squeezes the large rubber bulb affixed to the edge of the automobile, left of the steerage wheel. A tuba-like honk, with a little vibrato, erupts out of the trumpet attached to the bulb. It is loud and attention-getting. Tomas has a vision of a rider on a horse carrying a goose under his arm like a bagpipe, squeezing the bird whenever danger is nigh, and cannot repress a cough of laughter.

  "Can I try it?"

  He squeezes the bulb several times. Each honk makes him laugh. He stops when he sees that his uncle is less amused and endeavours to pay attention to the renewed motoring mumbo-jumbo. These are more venerations than clarifications. If his relative's smelly metallic toy could show feelings, it would surely turn pink with embarrassment.

  They come to the steerage wheel, which is perfectly round and the size of a large dinner plate. Reaching into the driving compartment again, Lobo places a hand on it. "To turn the vehicle to the left, you turn the wheel to the left. To turn the vehicle to the right, you turn the wheel to the right. To drive straight, you hold the wheel straight. Perfectly logical."

  Tomas peers closely. "But how can a stationary wheel be said to turn to the left or to the right?" he asks.

  His uncle searches his face. "I'm not sure I understand what there is not to understand. Do you see the top of the wheel, next to my hand? You see it, yes? Well, imagine that there's a spot there, a little white spot. Now, if I turn the wheel this way"--and here he pulls on the wheel--"do you see how that little white spot moves to the left? Yes? Well then, the automobile will turn to the left. And do you see that if I turn the wheel that way"--and here he pushes the wheel--"do you see how the little white spot moves to the right? In that case, the automobile will turn to the right. Is the point obvious to you now?"

  Tomas's expression darkens. "But look"--he points with a finger--"at the bottom of the steerage wheel! If there were a little white spot there, it would be moving in the opposite direction. You might be turning the wheel to the right, as you say, at the top, but at the bottom you're turning it to the left. And what about the sides of the wheel? As you're turning it both right and left, you're also turning one side up and the other side down. So either way, in whichever direction you spin the wheel, you're simultaneously turning it to the right, to the left, up, and down. Your claim to be turning the wheel in one particular direction sounds to me like one of those paradoxes devised by the Greek philosopher Zeno of Elea."

  Lobo stares in consternation at the steerage wheel, the top of it, the bottom of it, the sides of it. He takes a long, deep breath. "Be that as it may, Tomas, you must drive this automobile the way it was designed. Keep your eyes on the top of the steerage wheel. Ignore all the other sides. Shall we move on? There are other details we must cover, the operation of the clutch and of the change-speed lever, for example..." He accompanies his talk with hand and foot gestures, but neither words nor mummery spark any comprehension in Tomas. For example, what is "torque"? Did the Iberian Peninsula not get enough torque with Grand Inquisitor Torquemada? And what sane person could make sense of "double declutch"?

  "I have supplied you with a few items that you'll find useful."

  His uncle pulls open the door of the cabin, which is located in its back half. Tomas leans forward to peer in. There is relative gloom within. He notes the features of the cabin. It has the elements of a domestic space, with a black sofa of the finest leather and walls and a ceiling of polished cedar strips. The front window and the side windows look like the windows of an elegant home, boasting clear, good-quality panes and gleaming metal sashes. And the back window above the sofa, so neatly framed, could well be a painting hanging on a wall. But the scale of it! The ceiling is so low. The sofa will accommodate no more than two people comfortably. Each side window is of a size that will allow only a single person to look out of it. As for the back window, if it were a painting, it would be a miniature. And to get into this confined space, one must bend down to get through the door. What happened to the opulent openness of the horse-drawn carriage? He pulls back and gazes at one of the automobile's side mirrors. It might plausibly belong in a washroom. And didn't his uncle mention something about a fire in the engine? He feels an inward sinking. This tiny habitation on wheels, with bit parts of the living room, the washroom, and the fireplace, is a pathetic admission that human life is no more than this: an attempt to feel at home while racing towards oblivion.

  He has also noticed the multitude of objects in the cabin. There is his suitcase, with his few personal necessities. More important, there is his trunk of papers, which contains all sorts of essential items: his correspondence with the secretary of the Bishop of Braganca and with a number of parish priests across the High Mountains of Portugal; the transcription of Father Ulisses' diary; archival newspaper clippings on the occurrences of fires in village churches in that same region; excerpts from the logbook of a Portuguese ship returning to Lisbon in the mid-seventeenth century; as well as various monographs on the architectural history of northern Portugal. And usually, when he is not carrying it in his pocket--a folly, he reminds himself--the trunk would hold and protect Father Ulisses' invaluable diary. But suitcase and trunk are crowded alongside barrels, boxes, tin containers, and bags. The cabin is a cave of goods that would glut the Forty Thieves.

  "Ali Baba, Uncle Martim! So many things? I'm not crossing Africa. I'm only going to the High Mountains of Portugal, some few days away."

  "You're going farther than you think," his uncle replies. "You'll be venturing into lands that have never seen an automobile. You'll need the capacity to be autonomous. Which is why I've included a good canvas rain tarp and some blankets, although you might be better off sleeping in the cabin. That box there contains all the motoring tools you'll need. Next to it is the oiling can. This five-gallon metal barrel is full of water, for the radiator, and this one of moto-naphtha, the automobile's elixir of life. Resupply yourself as often as you can, because at some point you'll have to rely on your own stock. Along the way, look out for apothecaries, bicycle shops, blacksmiths, ironmongers. They'll have moto-naphtha, though they may give it another name: petroleum spirit, mineral spirit, something like that. Smell it before you buy it. I've also provided you with victuals. An automobile is best operated by a well-fed driver. Now, see if these fit."

  From a bag on the floor of the cabin, his uncle pulls out a pair of pale leather gloves. Tomas tries them on, baffled. The fit is snug. The leather is pleasingly elastic and creaks when he makes a fist.

  "Thank you," he says uncertainly.

  "Take good care of them. They're from France too."

  Next his uncle hands him goggles that are big and hideous. Tomas has hardly put them on when his uncle brings out a beige coat lined with fur that reaches well below his knees.

  "Waxed cotton and mink. The finest quality," he says.

  Tomas puts it on. The coat is heavy and bulky. Finally, Lobo slaps a hat on him that has straps that tie under the chin. Gloved, goggled, coated, and hatted, he feels like a giant mushroom. "Uncle, what is this costume for?"

  "For motoring, of course. For the wind and the dust. For the rain and the cold. It is December. Have you not noticed the driving compartment?"

  He looks. His uncle has a point. The back part of the automobile consists of the enclosed cubicle for the passengers. The driving compartment in front of it, however, is open to the elements but for the roof and a front window. There are no doors or windows on either side. Wind, dust, and rain will easily come in. He grouses internally. If his uncle hadn't cluttered the cabin with so much gear, making it impossible for him to sit within, he could take shelter there while Sabio drove the machine.

  His uncle presses on. "I've included maps as good as they exist. When they're of no help, rely on the compass. You're heading north-northeast. The roads of Portugal are of the poorest quality, but the vehicle has a fine suspension system--leaf springs. They will handle any ruts. If the roads get to you, drink plenty of wine.
There are two wineskins in the cabin. Avoid roadside inns and stagecoaches. They are not your friends. It's understandable. A degree of hostility is to be expected from those whose livelihood the automobile directly threatens. Right, as for the rest of the supplies, you'll figure out what's what. We should get going. Sabio, are you ready?"

  "Yes, senhor," replies Sabio with military promptness.

  "Let me get my jacket. I'll drive you to the edges of Lisbon, Tomas."

  His uncle returns to the house. Tomas doffs the ludicrous motoring costume and returns it to the cabin. His uncle bounces back into the courtyard, a jacket on his back, gloves upon his hands, his cheeks flushed with excitement, exuding a nearly terrifying joviality.

  "By the way, Tomas," he bellows, "I forgot to ask: Why on earth do you so badly want to go to the High Mountains of Portugal?"

  "I'm looking for something," Tomas replies.

  "What?"

  Tomas hesitates. "It's in a church," he finally says, "only I'm not sure which one, in which village."

  His uncle stands next to him and studies him. Tomas wonders whether he should say more. Whenever his uncle comes to the Museum of Ancient Art, he gazes at the exhibits with glazed eyes.

  "Have you heard of Charles Darwin, Uncle?" Tomas asks.

  "Yes, I've heard of Darwin," Lobo replies. "What, is he buried in a church in the High Mountains of Portugal?" He laughs. "You want to bring his body back and give it pride of place in the Museum of Ancient Art?"

  "No. Through my work I came upon a diary written on Sao Tome, in the Gulf of Guinea. The island has been a Portuguese colony since the late fifteenth century."

  "A miserable one. I stopped there once on my way to Angola. I thought I might invest in some cocoa plantations there."

  "It was an important place during the slave trade."