Corinne, Volume 1 (of 2)

  Chapter iii.

  The ceremonies of Holy Week at Rome have been much spoken of. Foreignerscome thither during Lent expressly to enjoy this spectacle; and as themusic of the Sixtine Chapel and the illumination of St Peter's arebeauties unique in themselves, it is natural that they should excite alively curiosity; but expectation is not equally satisfied. Theceremonies themselves, properly speaking--the dinner of the twelveApostles, served by the Pope, the washing of the feet by him, and allthe different customs of this solemn season--excite very movingrecollections; but a thousand inevitable circumstances often injure theinterest and the dignity of this spectacle. All those who assist at itare not equally devout, equally occupied with pious ideas. Theseceremonies, so often repeated, have become a sort of mechanical exercisefor most people, and the young priests despatch the service of greatfestivals with an activity and a dexterity little calculated to produceany religious effect. That indefinite, that unknown, that mysteriousimpression, which religion ought to excite, is entirely destroyed bythat species of attention which we cannot help paying to the manner inwhich each acquits himself of his functions. The avidity of some for themeats presented them, and the indifference of others in thegenuflections which they multiply and the prayers which they recite,often strip the festival of its solemnity.

  The ancient costumes which still serve for the vestments of the priests,agree badly with the modern style of treating the hair. The Greekbishop, with his long beard, has the most respectable appearance. Theancient custom also of making a reverence after the manner of women,instead of bowing as men do now, produces an impression by no meansserious. In a word, the _ensemble_ is not in harmony, and the ancient isblended with the modern without sufficient care being taken to strikethe imagination, or at least to avoid all that may distract it. Aworship, dazzling and majestic in its external forms, is certainlycalculated to fill the soul with the most elevated sentiments; but caremust be taken that the ceremonies do not degenerate into a spectacle inwhich each one plays his part--in which each one studies what he must doat such a moment; when he is to pray, when he is to finish his prayer;when to kneel down, and when to get up. The regulated ceremonies of acourt introduced into a temple of devotion, confine the free movement ofthe heart, which can alone give man the hope of drawing near to theDeity.

  These observations are pretty generally felt by foreigners, but theRomans for the most part do not grow weary of those ceremonies; andevery year they find in them new pleasure. A singular trait in thecharacter of the Italians is, that their mobility does not make theminconstant, nor does their vivacity render variety necessary to them.They are in every thing patient and persevering; their imaginationembellishes what they possess; it occupies their life instead ofrendering it uneasy; they think every thing more magnificent, moreimposing, more fine, than it really is: and whilst in other nationsvanity consists in an affectation of boredom, that of the Italians, orrather their warmth and vivacity, makes them find pleasure in thesentiment of admiration.

  Lord Nelville, from all that the Romans had said to him, expected to bemore affected by the ceremonies of Holy Week. He regretted the noble andsimple festivals of the Anglican church. He returned home with apainful impression; for nothing is more sad than not being moved by thatwhich ought to move us; we believe that our soul is become dry, we fearthat the fire of enthusiasm is extinguished in us, without which thefaculty of thinking can only serve to disgust us with life.