A Book of Voyages

  Mille hominum species, & rerum discolor usus:

  Velle suum cuique est, nec voto vivitur uno.

  There are a thousand sorts of men, and as much variety of fashions: Every man has his will, without complying with any one.

  As to the point of liberty, it is beyond all credibility; but no man must presume to look into the government of the commonwealth; for it is of the nature of the cancer, which none can handle, without faring the worse. As to other particulars, in the day time, it is frequent to see officers beaten, and their prisoners rescu’d by brothers and sons, with extraordinary impunity and freedom. Tho’ the nobility absolutely lord it over the common sort, yet, in outward appearance, they are not very imperious or haughty towards them, but very familiarly permit them to be cover’d in their presence; which, I think, is very requisite in commonwealths, to preserve peace and civil unity. Besides, to avoid being thought proud, which would render them odious to their inferiors, they walk about the streets without any attendance, and sometimes with a small parcel or bundle under their upper garment; and thus, laying aside all ostentation and shew of luxury, they exercise a most absolute sovereignty. They wear a long vest down to their ancles, of black cloth, with great wide sleeves; in winter, lin’d and edg’d with furs, and in summer with some slight silk. On the left shoulder hangs another piece of cloath, about four spans long, and two in breadth, to keep them from the rain. To deal ingenuously with you, I am of opinion, it is the same as the toga among the ancient Romans; as the aforesaid vest, or upper garment tho’ long, may be used instead of the senators’ tunica clavata, or laticlavium; for it plainly appears by a certain place in Athenæus, that the toga was once square. Besides that, tho’ this sort of garment be also common to lawyers and physicians, however, the nobles do not wear it before they are twenty-five years of age: and whereas the Romans, less discretely, allow’d all men the toga virilis, which was the manly habit, at seventeen years of age, the Venetians do not permit it to be worn till twenty-five; excepting those thirty-five youths which are yearly chosen by lot on St. Barbara’s day, that they may wear it at eighteen. On their heads they wear a little woollen cap, with a thicker fur about it than the rest. The girdle is of leather, with a buckle, and other ornaments of silver.

  I am now well enter’d upon the matter, and have so far play’d the republican and politician, that methinks I have a whole Roman senate in my head, with all the families of the Porcii, Fabricii, Sulpicii, Calpurnii, and Cecilii, but not the Cornificii and Cornelii. It is not at all agreeable to the carnival, especially for one that is at Venice, to enter upon politicks: and I question not but that you think with your self, where is the diversion I promis’d myself, in reading the beginning of this letter? and when will this good man give over his tediousness, and writing long letters? If so, I have done; for I can grow weary of writing; but then you will want the best, that is, what relates to theatres, and is the third part of my description. Then let my importunity prevail upon your patience. There are several theatres in Venice. That of St. Luke, mention’d in my last, contains an hundred and fifty boxes. St. Angelo, where I saw Jugurtha king of Numidia excellently acted, has an hundred and thirty-six. In that of Zane, or John of St. Moses, if I mistake not, I counted an hundred and fifteen (small enough), when I was there on Saturday, to see Clearchus of Negropont. The following night I saw Dido raving in that of St. John and Paul; and I assure you, it was nothing inferior to any of those we so much applauded there, either for excellent singing, or curious scenes: it contains an hundred and fifty-four boxes. I have not yet seen the theatre of Grimani, but am told, it is finer than all the rest, and has an hundred and sixty-two boxes richly gilt; but there they pay four Italian livres, which is better than three shillings entrance, and thirty-two pence for a seat; whereas, in the others, they give but thirty-two pence entrance, and twenty for a seat, or little more. St. Samuel and St. Cassanus are two other noble theatres, but not for opera’s in musick. And, to conclude, the square of St. Mark may be also call’d a theatre; for there are abundance of diversions, volting, dancing on the ropes, and puppet-shews, but, above all, variety of pleasant sights and conversation.

  It remains to speak something to the third point, that is, the government; but what shall I do now? my paper will hold no more, and it is too late to scribble another sheet. D’ye think I shall not write to you again the next week? I refer that account till then, when perhaps I may be able to do it better, and upon more solid information than at present. We have here a mighty report of the magnificence of your viceroy, both as to masks and opera’s; it would grieve me to be so far from him, were there not so much pleasure in travelling; however, I beg you will give me some account of it, as fully as your important affairs will permit: thus, with my commendations to yourself and friends, I remain, &c.

  LETTER III

  Of the government of Venice, the great council-chamber, the armory, the Doge’s attendance to church, and a notable story.

  VENICE, FEBRUARY, 1686

  In pursuance of my promise, and at the same time to satisfy you, I have these days apply’d myself, with all possible care, to get some solid information concerning the government of this city; but am of opinion, I have wasted my breath and my time; for their methods are kept wonderful secret, and we can only conjecture at them by the effects: and, in short, all, I believe I have been able to discover, is, that it is this same concert the Venetians are beholden to for the preservation of their state. There is no question to be made, but that Amelot de la Houssaye’s relation is very fine and curious, and the contents of it not only likely, but almost palpable demonstration of what he proposes to lay open; yet am I of opinion, that the greatest part of it is rather the product of his own brain, than any information received from others, the men of quality here being always very reserv’d, and upon their guard, tho’ others be never so ingenious in diving into them. To confirm the last point relating to the description in my former letter, I must again declare to you, that since we see this republick support itself with so much honour and reputation for so many ages, it must of necessity be allow’d this commendation, of being govern’d by the rules of the most refin’d policy. This is the way men judge, deducing the causes from the effects. And tho’ experience shews us, that all things which are excellently contriv’d, do not equally succeed, yet, for the most part, we find, that fortune is the consequence of prudence, and that those which are best order’d, have generally the most prosperous event.

  Now, as for the magistrates who govern, I will not pretend to give you any particular or general account of them, because I remember to have often seen the books of Contarini and Giannotti in your hands; so that I might better be inform’d by you in that point, than otherwise. But as to the place where they assemble, I must acquaint you, that the chamber of the great council is all over masterly painted, and will easily hold a thousand men. There are rows of benches about so order’d, that tho’ there are seats on both sides, no man turns his back upon another, but they are all face to face. At one end of this hall, where the floor is somewhat raised, is the Doge’s seat, fixed in the wall, with benches on both sides. On that which is on his right sit three counsellors, and one of the heads of the Quarantie, or council of forty; and on his left, a like number of counsellors, and the other two heads of the Quarantie. Opposite to the Doge, that is, at the other end of the hall, sits one of the heads of the council of ten, and at a small distance, one of the advocates of the commons. In the middle are two Censors, some steps above the floor of the hall; and to conclude, in the angles are the old and new auditors.

  I have taken great pleasure these days in hearing some trials before the council of twelve, and the Quarantie; for the advocates did not talk, but roar; not argue, but scold; and that their way of pleading would make a statue burst with laughing. On the other hand, they have this very commendable custom, that they only endeavour to gain the judges by proper words, and arguments drawn from natural reason, and well digested, according to the rules of rhe
torick, without perplexing themselves with quotations and precedents: the reason whereof perhaps is, because those judges are not always very well read in the civil, and much less in the canon law; and therefore no proofs are at first offer’d, but only a plain bill of what is requir’d, Besides, the most famous advocate, is not allow’d to speak above an hour and an half; a custom, as I take it, observed by the ancients, who measur’d the time allotted for that purpose, by a water hour-glass; whence they said dare aquam, and dicere ad horam; that is, to allow water, which was the measure of the time, and to speak by the hour: as I think I have read in Quintilian; and once observ’d a curious place of Philostratus, in the life of Apollonius Thyanæus. Those who spoke by this rule, dicebant. ad clepsydram, talk’d by the water hour-glass; and therefore Martial, scoffing at one Cæcilianus, said,

  Septem clepsydras magnä tibi voce petenti,

  Arbiter invitus, Cæciliane, dedit.

  At tu multa diu dicis: vitreisque tepentem

  Ampullis potas semisupinus aquam.

  Ut tandem saties vocemque, sitimque, rogamus,

  Jam de clepsydra, Cæciliane, bibas.

  Which is to this effect. Cæcilianus, the judge, much against his will, allows you to plead whilst seven glasses are running, which you demand with much clamour. You talk much a long while together, and to refresh you, take off several glasses of warm water. That you may at length satiate your voice and your thirst, we intreat you, Cæcilianus, to drink out of the hour-glass.

  But methinks, to repeat such things to you, who are so well acquainted with them, by continual reading of good authors, is like carrying of flowers to Flora, and fruit to Alcinous. However it is, the judges give their opinions after this manner: To denote the affirmative judgment, they put a white ball, made of linen, into a vessel of the same colour; for the negative, a green ball into a green vessel; and in a doubtful case, a reddish one, which neither affirms nor denies, into a red vessel; all this in open court, and before the parties themselves. The best custom, in my mind, is, that every one may be there present with his cap or hat on his head, perhaps in token of liberty, or even mask’d, as every one pleases. But what a heinous crime this would be in Naples!

  Adjoining to the grand council, is the armory, not furnish’d with any great store of arms, but with the curiousest and rarest armour in Europe; for, besides what the republick itself has bought at several times, and upon sundry occasions, a great quantity has been presented them by the most potent monarchs, very wonderful both for workmanship and value. Among the rest is remarkable, an engine, which at once fires four thousand muskets, and might be of good use upon any mutiny of the people, or such other sudden accident. There are innumerable Turkish colours, tho’ there must be more of the Venetians at Constantinople. Among the greatest rarities, is a crystal fountain, and St. Mark’s head, drawn with a pen, in which the strokes are not plain lines, but contain the whole gospel of our Saviour’s Passion, almost invisible to the eye, so that it cannot be read without a very convex magnifying glass. The provost marshal of Venice, call’d the great captain, has charge of this place, and when I was there I had like to have taken him for a bishop, for he had on a long purple robe, lin’d with crimson damask, and edg’d with furs, and a cap on his head like those the noblemen wear. This post is worth three thousand ducats a year.

  On Candlemas Day in the evening, I went to Santa Maria Formosa, because the Doge was to be there, according to antient custom. Touching the original of this practice, it is to be observ’d, that in former ages, the most beautiful maids in Venice, and the adjacent ports on the continent, were given in marriage to those who offer’d most money for them; and then that money was distributed among the ugliest, for them to get husbands by their portions. This good custom having multiply’d the people, another yet better was introduced, which was, that after the betrothing, all the maidens were conducted back to St. Pietro a Castello, call’d Olivole, carrying their portion with them, and there they staid all Candlemas night. The bridegrooms coming in the morning, with all their kindred, they heard the high mass together, and then the nuptial ceremonies being perform’d, they return’d home joyfully with their beloved brides. The Istrians, who were then enemies to the city, knowing this custom, laid hold of the opportunity, and coming over privately by night, in well-rigg’d vessels, carry’d off both the maids and their portions, before any could rescue them. This accident causing a mighty uproar in Venice, abundance of vessels were fitted out in an hour; but particularly by the inhabitants of Santa Maria Formosa’s ward, who overtaking the ravishers at Caorle, where they were dividing the booty, made a most bloody slaughter of them, and brought home again the afflicted ladies, with all the rest that had been taken away. These people being order’d by the nobility boldly to ask any reward for their bravery, answer’d, We desire nothing but that you be obliged, in memory of this action, to come once a year, with your prince, to our church. The Doge reply’d, And what if it should happen to rain on that day? Then, said they, we will send you hoods to keep you dry, and if you are thirsty we will also make you drink. In pursuance of which promise, the joyners, and fruiterers, send the prince two hoods on Candlemas day, with two bottles, the one of white the other of red wine, stopp’d with oranges, which are afterwards placed on two stands by the high altar in the said church. Such a sort of ceremony is perform’d by the fathers of mount Olivet towards the patriarch, on Ascension-day, presenting him with a bason full of pick’d chestnuts.

  Being come into the church, I saw, in the first place, a canopy of crimson damask set up for the Doge, on the right side of the altar, all the wall being hung with the same.

  When it was time to begin the even song, he sat down under it, and the French embassador at a small distance from him. On both sides sat several senators and counsellors, some more some less raised up from the ground, according to their degree and quality. When the Magnificat was begun, he took a lighted candle into his hand, and, the solemnity being over, went away to his boat. The attendance was as follows, first went the clergy of the church with their cross, then follow’d the senators and counsellors, according to their rank, clad in crimson damask, and such of them as had been embassadors, by way of distinction, had an edging of gold-colour cloth embroider’d. Next came two of the Doge’s courtiers, he on the right carrying a cushion for him to kneel on, and the other a little folding stool, like those the bishops use upon some occasions. Then the Doge himself had an under garment, or tunick, of a rich white silk, and the upper or vest, crimson lin’d in ermin; his cap was also of white silk, with the usual ducal point, or horn. He is of stature low, but of a good constitution, tho’ seventy years of age, very pleasant, well spoken, good, and gracious. After him, besides the person carrying the train, came a nobleman with a naked tuck in his hand, and another courtier carrying the umbrello. The two Gondolas, or boats, which he and all the company went in, were curiously glazed and adorn’d with a beautiful covering of crimson damask, on which were his arms, and those of St. Mark. Each of them was rowed by four men, clad in red. The great captain also appear’d that day in his robes, his very upper garment being of crimson damask, edg’d with furs of the same colour. In short, he looks like something more than a mean provost, in his habit and behaviour.