Harris-Ingram Experiment
CHAPTER XXI
TWO UNANSWERED LETTERS
During the night the yacht "Hallena" had steamed down through the ChannelPiombino, and the Tuscan Archipelago, studded with islands, and hadpassed Rome, the Eternal City.
"Naples cannot be far off," thought Leo, for to the southeast is seen thesmoking torch of Mt. Vesuvius, southwest is the island of Ischia with itsextinct volcano, and beyond is Cape Miseno. The "Hallena" cautiously felther way among the luxuriant islands that guard the broad and beautifulBay of Naples and the Siren City. Her passengers had ample opportunityto study the attractions of this justly celebrated locality.
Vesuvius, reflected in the smooth waters of the bay, lifts high her peak,the ascending smoke coloring the white clouds above. At her feet liesancient Hurculaneum, submerged on the 24th of August, A.D. 79, by a floodof molten lava.
Nearer the bay and only five miles from the volcano, is ancient Pompeii,which was overwhelmed by the same eruption of Vesuvius. Pompeii wasburied, not with lava, but with tufa, ashes and scoriae, and since 1755has thus been the more easily and extensively uncovered. This ancientRoman city was enclosed by walls and entered by several gates. Itsnumerous streets were paved with lava. The traveler of to-day beholdsuncovered the one story and terraced houses, shops, mansions, the marketplace, temples, theatres, and baths. In some of the houses were foundfurniture, statues, paintings, books, medals, urns, jewels, utensils,manuscripts, etc., all less injured than one would suppose.
Today more modern towns are located about the curved shore of thisunrivaled bay. The sparkling waters, the winding shore, the bold cliffs,the threatening lava cone, the buried cities, all combine under thebluest skies to make the Bay of Naples a Mecca for worshipers of thebeautiful.
On the deck of the "Hallena" stood the group of American tourists,enchanted with the picturesque environment of historic Naples. The cityis built along the shore and up the sides of adjacent mountains. A mole,with lighthouse, projects into the bay and forms a small harbor.
The sun had climbed towards the zenith, and shone full upon this faircity, as the yacht entered the harbor. Many of the buildings are white,five or six stories in height, with flat roofs covered with plants andshrubbery. If the weather is favorable the inmates resort at sunset totheir roof-gardens to enjoy lovely views and the cool breezes from thebay.
The Spiaggia, a popular thoroughfare, is adorned with statues, andextends along the shore to the Tomb of Virgil, and the mole. It iscrowded every evening with Neapolitans in equipages, some elegant, andsome grotesque.
Two or three days were spent in studying the palaces and art galleries ofNaples. Of special interest is the national Museo Borbonico, which isremarkable for its collection of antiquities. In the palmy days of Borne,Naples was a luxurious retreat for emperors and wealthy citizens of thegreat empire. Naples was the scene of a most disgraceful outrage in May,1848, when it was plundered by the Lazzaroni, or Begging Community, andfifteen hundred lives were lost.
When the sight-seeing in Naples was completed Captain Hall offered totake the Harrises in his yacht back to Rome, but his offer was declined.Good-byes were cordially exchanged and the "Hallena" steamed south toPalermo, en route to Athens and other Levantine cities, while theHarrises took the express for Rome.
Leo was glad to see the "Hallena" steam away, and to be with Lucilleaboard a train moving towards Rome. When the station in the eastern partof the city was reached, a carriage conveyed the Harrises along the Corsowhich at the hour of their driving was enlivened by many vehicles andfoot-passengers.
Leo told Lucille of the popular festivals at Rome, especially of theCarnival that extends over several days, which consists of dailyprocessions in the Corso, accompanied by the throwing of bouquets andcomfits; the whole concluding with a horse race from the Piazza delPopolo to Piazza di Venezia, upwards of a mile. On the last, or theMoccoli evening, tapers are lighted immediately after sunset. Balconiesmost suitable for observing these animated scenes are expensive, butalways in great demand, especially by tourists.
Colonel Harris took his family and Leo to an excellent hotel on thePiazza de Popolo. The weather being uncomfortably warm, it was decidedto spend only a few days in the city, and go as soon as possible to thecountry. Leo was very familiar with Rome, ancient and modern, and hefelt that weeks were absolutely necessary to study and comprehend thegrandeur of a city that for so many centuries had been mistress of theworld. He agreed with Niebuhr, "As the streams lose themselves in themightier ocean, so the history of the people once distributed along theMediterranean shores is absorbed in that of the mighty mistress of theworld."
Leo back again in Rome was in an ecstasy of joy. Here Greece had laid atthe feet of Rome her conqueror, the accumulated art treasures of ages.Here Leo could have keenest delight, where he moved among the noblestexamples of antique sculpture, which filled the galleries and chambers ofthe Vatican and Capitol. Most of the night he lay awake, planning how hecould in so short a time exhibit to his American friends Rome and herwealth of art. At breakfast he said, "A whole day is needed to inspectthe Forum Romanum, a day each, for the Capitoline Hill, the Appian Way,and many other historic localities in this seven-hilled city."
Leo, acting as guide, took his party to the Pincian Hill near thenorthern wall, a fashionable resort with fine boulevards and frequentband music. From the summit, he pointed out the yellow Tiber, which windsfor seventeen miles to the sea. The larger part of modern Rome lies onthe left bank of the Tiber, and covers three historic hills. Toweringabove the tops of the buildings are the domes and spires of nearly fourhundred churches of which the dome of St. Peter's is the most imposing.In sight beyond are the Capitol, the ruins of the Colosseum, and ancienttombs along the Appian Way. To the west on the Palatine Hill are theruins of the palace of the Caesars, and outside the walls, on the broadCampagna, are the remains of several aqueducts converging on the city,some of which, restored, are in use to-day.
The day's ride included a visit to Agrippa's Pantheon, now denuded of itsbronze roofing and marble exterior. A circular opening in the huge domeadmits both light and rain. Leo standing with Lucille by the tomb ofRaphael in one of the recesses, for a moment was silent. Then he said,"Lucille, it is impossible to fully appreciate the many and beautifulworks of this 'prince of painters.' He was born on Good Friday, 1483, andlived exactly thirty-seven years. He was of slight build, sallow, and hadbrown eyes. Over nine hundred prints of his works are known. Besides hisworks in fresco at the Vatican, for a time he had charge of theconstruction of St. Peter's, and he also painted masterpieces now atBologna, Dresden, Madrid, Hampton Court, and executed numerouscommissions for Leo X.; and Madonnas, holy families, portraits, etc.,for others. Raphael stands unrivaled, chiefly in his power to portraylofty sentiments which persons of all nationalities can feel, but fewcan describe. He also excelled in invention, composition, simplicityand grandeur. For moral force in allegory and history, and for fidelityin portrait, Raphael was unsurpassed. His last and most celebrated oilpicture, the transfiguration, unfinished, stood at his head as his bodylay in state."
Colonel Harris was interested in the restored Triumphal Arch of Tituserected to commemorate the defeat of the Jews A.D. 70, also in thebeautiful Arch to Severus. At the end of the Rostra, or Orators' Tribunewas the Umbilicus Urbis Romae, or ideal center of Rome and the RomanEmpire. True it was that all roads led to Rome. Leo and Lucille visitedby moonlight the ruins of the great Colosseum, and the lights and shadowsin the huge old stone and brick amphitheater, made it look all the moreimposing and picturesque.
On the morning of the second day Leo Colonna guided his friends down theVia di Ripetta, stopping at the Mausoleum of Augustus, which in themiddle ages was used by the Colonnas as a fortress. Then continuing downthe left bank of the Tiber, the Ponte S. Angelo was reached. This ancientbridge of five arches leads directly to the Castello S. Angelo, thecitadel of Rome, which originally was a tomb erected by Hadrian forhimself and successor. The tomb is 240 feet in diameter, and must havebeen very
beautiful, as it was once encrusted with marble. Statues stoodaround the margin of the top, and above all a colossal statue of Hadrianhimself. Later the Goths, veritable iconoclasts, converted this tomb ofthe emperors into a fortress, hurling the marble statues down on thebesiegers. For centuries this castle-tomb was used as a stronghold bythe party in power to maintain their sway over the people. In 1822 PiusIX. refortified the castle. In it was seen the gloomy dungeon whereBeatrice Cenci and others were incarcerated.
The Harrises drove down the Borgo Nuovo to the church of St. Peter. Itsapproach is through a magnificent piazza ornamented on the right and leftby two semicircular porticoes of 284 columns, which are surmounted by anentablature, and 192 statues, each eleven feet in height. It is claimedthat the origin of the Cathedral of St. Peter is due to the impulsegiven by Pope Julius II. who decided to erect a grand monument forhimself in his life-time, and the new edifice was needed to shield it.St. Peter's was begun in 1506 and dedicated in 1626.
Bramante's wonderful plans were accepted, and both Michael Angelo andRaphael aided in its construction. From a Greek cross rises a giganticdome, which is one of the boldest and most wonderful efforts ofarchitecture. Lucille recalled Byron's description,
"The vast and wondrous dome, To which Diana's marvel was a cell."
Entering this mighty cathedral, Colonel Harris was bewildered with itsgrand and harmonious interior. The height from the pavement to the crossrivals the height of the Washington monument. The nave is 607 feet inlength, and the transept is 445 feet. St. Paul's at London covers onlytwo acres, St. Peter's five acres. The cost of the former was $3,750,000,the cost of the latter from $60,000,000 to $80,000,000.
The Harrises visited St. John Lateran, the mother-church of the EternalCity, where Popes were crowned, and where on Ascension Day, from one ofits balconies, the Pope's benediction to the people is pronounced.
They also visited the restored St. Paul's Church outside the walls. Itsinterior is of vast dimensions. It was built of valuable materials, andthe whole is very imposing. Especially was Lucille impressed with thelong series of portrait medallions of all the Popes from St. Peter to LeoX. worked in mosaic above the polished columns.
Many monuments in St. Peter's were erected to the memory of several ofthe famous Popes. The Vatican, the largest palace in Europe, is where thePopes came to reside after their return from Avignon, France, in 1377,for here they felt much security in the vicinity of the Castle S. Angelo,with which it communicated by a covered gallery. For a time the Popesvied with each other in enlarging and embellishing the Vatican, whichcovers an immense space, and is a collection of separate buildings; thelength is 1150 feet, and the breath 767 feet. The Vatican is said tocontain 20 courts, and 11,000 halls, chapels, salons, and privateapartments, most of which are occupied by collections and show-rooms,while only a small part is set apart for the papal court.
The Harrises visited the most celebrated portions of the Vatican; theScala Regia, covered with frescoes of events in Papal history, theSistine Chapel, adorned with fine frescoes by Michael Angelo, includingthe Last Judgment. Here the Cardinals meet to elect the Pope, and heremany of the most gorgeous ceremonies of the Roman Catholic Church areperformed.
Equally enthusiastic were Leo and Lucille over Raphael's superb frescoesin the Loggie, and in the chambers adjoining. The few pictures in thegallery are scarcely surpassed. The museum contains some of the noblesttreasures of art, including the Laocoon, and Apollo Belvidere. Thelibrary is very valuable. The superb palace of the Quirinal has beautifulgardens.
Besides the several elegant public palaces in Rome, there are in and nearthe city over sixty private palaces or villas; the finest of which is theBarberini Palace. Several of the villas are located above terraces amidorange and citron groves, and they are ornamented with statues andfountains. Leo with pride took his friends to see the Colonna Palace,which contained many old portraits of his family.
After dinner a drive was taken outside the Porta del Popolo to themagnificent Villa Borghese and the Pincian Hill. It was planned to visiton the morrow the gallery Borghese, next to the Vatican, the mostimportant in Rome. It was dark as Leo returned with his party to thehotel. The landlord handed him a gentleman's card which read,
Mr. Ferdinand Francisco Colonna. Piazza Colonna, Rome.
The landlord said that this gentleman was waiting for Leo in thereception-room. Leo at once recognized the card as that of his cousin,who was an attorney in Rome, and he hurried to meet his relative. Theygrasped hands warmly, and soon were in earnest conversation.
Ferdinand, taking a large official envelope from his pocket, opened itand began reading what he called a very important paper. It was a copyof the will of their rich uncle, who had just died, while inspectinghis possession in Sicily. Leo Colonna bore the name of this uncle, hisfather's oldest brother, who was fond of art, and who was never married.He had always been attached to Leo, his nephew, and in his will Leo wasmade his sole heir. Great was Leo's surprise to learn that he was now notonly the owner of a fine palace southeast of Rome, but of largepossessions in Rome, Sicily, and South America.
Leo leaned back in his chair, his eyes closed, his face changed colorand the muscles of his hands and face twitched as if he were in pain.Suddenly he recovered possession of himself and said, "Ferdinand, youalmost paralyze me by the news you bring. Am I dreaming, or not?"
"No, no, Leo. This is a copy of the will of our uncle. The original willis in my safe. By this same will I am to have 100,000 lira for assistingyou. I am now at your service."
"Ferdinand, you bring sad and glorious news. What is your advice?"
"That we file the original will at once in the proper court, and that youproceed with me immediately to Marino to take possession there of yourpalace and property."
"Agreed, Ferdinand. We will leave Rome for Marino at noon tomorrow.Meet me here, as I may have friends to join us."
Leo hastened at once to tell the good news to the Harrises, who werenearly as much elated as himself, and it was agreed that all would joinLeo in his proposed trip. It was late that night when Leo and Lucilleseparated in the parlor below. Each had dreamed of castles in Spain, butnow it looked as if Leo and possibly Lucille, might actually possesscastles in Italy.
That night Leo told Lucille much about the princely Colonna family ofItaly, which originated in the 11th century. Pope Martin V., severalothers who took part in the contest between the Guelphs and theGhibellines, and many others of the Colonna family had attained tohistorical and literary distinction.
Lucille was interested in the story of the great naval battle of Lepantoin which Marc Antonio Colonna aided Don Juan of Austria to gain aworld-renowned victory for Christianity against the Turks, the firsteffective triumph of the cross over the crescent. Leo recited the storyof the life of the illustrious Vittoria Colonna, pictures of a bust ofwhom Lucille had seen that day in Rome.
Vittoria, and the son of the Marquis of Pescara, when children four yearsold, were affianced, and in their seventeenth year they were married. Theyoung bride bravely sent her husband to the wars with a pavilion, anembroidered standard, and palm leaves, expressing the hope that hewould return with honors, for she was proud of the Colonna name.
Vittoria full of genius and grace, idealized her young showy cavalier,who was gallant and chivalrous. Her brave knight Pescara, among othervictories, won the battle of Pavia, and finally died of his wounds inMilan before she could reach his side. Vittoria Colonna buried her lovein Pescara's grave at Naples. Her widowhood was a period of sorrow, song,friendship, and saintly life. She was tall, stately, and dignified; ofgracious manners, and united much charm with her culture and virtue. Sheis considered the fairest and noblest lady of the Italian Renaissance.
Vittoria Colonna was on intimate terms with the great men and women ofher day, and in close sympathy with the Italian reformers. Michael Angelowas warmly her friend. His strong verses full of feeling to Vittoria werereplied to in gentle, graceful strains. She died as the sun sank in th
eMediterranean on the afternoon of February 25, 1547, Michael Angeloregretting as he saw her, lying on her death-bed, that he had not kissedher forehead and face as he had kissed her hand.
As Lucille retired that night she felt the force of Vittoria's noblelife, and longed to emulate one so related to her friend Leo. She felther own heart drawing nearer to Leo's, and in the silent hours of thenight, she sometimes wondered if she should ever bear the honored name ofColonna.
Next day at 12 o'clock promptly, Leo's cousin came, and the Harrises andLeo took the Rome and Naples line for Marino, located sixteen milessoutheast of Rome, where Vittoria Colonna had lived, and where Leoexpected to find and take possession of his own palace and property.
The Roman tombs of the Via Appia on the right were soon left behind.A dozen miles out and Frascate a summer resort was conspicuous withits many lovely villas. Later the party left the train and enjoyed abeautiful drive of three miles to Marino, a small town famous for itswine, and located on the Alban Mountains. In the middle ages, the Orsinidefended themselves here in a stronghold against their enemies theColonna, but the latter under Martin V. captured Marino, which with thesurrounding country has remained a fief of the Colonna family to thepresent day.
Ferdinand had already attended to much of the detail at Marino, so thatLeo, as owner of the vast Colonna estate, was loyally received by thevillagers, the tenants, and the old servants. Leo made his friends, theHarrises, most welcome at his unexpected and palatial home. The Harriseswere delighted at what they saw. Leo and Lucille took several drivestogether over the large estate. Once they drove along the shady roads,commanding extensive views, through the beautiful park of Colonna, anddown a well wooded valley to the clear waters of the Alban Lake. OftenLeo wished that Alfonso had accompanied him.
For some time before leaving Rome, Lucille had complained of a dullheadache and chills at night. In France Mrs. Harris was fearful that thesummer trip to Italy was not wise, but Leo and her family thought theyacht voyage to Naples would be charming. On the morning of the thirdday at Marino, Lucille was unable to leave her bed. Leo hastily called aphysician who found her pulse very low. She experienced great thirst andnausea, and the heat of her body was much increased. When the doctorlearned that Colonel Harris's daughter had slept in Rome with the windowopen, he at once declared to the family that Lucille had Roman fever,that dreaded malaria which is engendered in summer months near themarshes of Italy. Leo summoned to Marino the ablest physicians of Rome,who were in constant attendance, and heroic treatment was adopted.
Both Mr. and Mrs. Harris were half crazed with the fear of losingtheir beautiful daughter, and Leo himself was nearly frantic. Lucillegrew rapidly worse. Her strength and courage failed her, she becameunconscious, and as the tall white lily in the midday sun loses itsbeauty and life, so Lucille passed from earth, her agonizing motherholding the dead daughter's slender white hands.
Leo fell insensible and was removed from the death-chamber by hisservants. Womanly courage returned to the mother after a few moments ofintense grief, and aided by others the necessary preparations were madefor the removal of Lucille to America.
Captain Harry Hall with his yacht en route to Athens had called atBrindisi to get a reply from a most important letter of his mailed toLucille at Palermo. As he stepped ashore a telegram was handed himannouncing the sudden death of the woman he loved. He was so shocked thathis friends were alarmed. After a short conference Harry wired ColonelHarris the use of his yacht to carry back to America the remains ofbeautiful Lucille.
While Colonel Harris was writing an acceptance of Captain Hall'sservices, a second telegram came announcing the death, by drowning, ofhis only son Alfonso in the Zuider Zee at Amsterdam. How true thatmisfortunes never come singly!
Beneath the pillow on which Lucille died, were found two unansweredletters, proposals of marriage, one from Leo and one from Captain Hall.The broken hearted mother took charge of these letters, and before themetallic coffin was sealed, the unanswered letters were placed inLucille's white hand, over the heart that could not now decide.
Later the casket was put on board the yacht "Hallena" at Rome, andCaptain Hall with his flag at half-mast steamed towards America with thewoman, who could never on earth accept the tribute of his heart. Leo, nowMarquis Colonna, true chevalier that he was, insisted that he bepermitted to accompany Colonel Harris to Amsterdam in search of his sonAlfonso.