Eat, Pray, Love
But Yudhi and I decided to do it anyway, to take off for a week, rent a car and drive all over this tiny island, pretending that we are in America and that both of us are free. The idea charmed me when we came up with it last month, but the timing of it now—as I am lying in bed with Felipe and he’s kissing my fingertips and forearms and shoulders, encouraging me to linger—seems unfortunate. But I have to go. And in a way, I do want to go. Not only to spend a week with my friend Yudhi, but also as a repose after my big night with Felipe, to get my head around the new reality that, as they say in the novels: I have taken a lover.
So Felipe drops me off at my house with one last passionate embrace and I have just enough time to shower and pull myself together when Yudhi arrives with our rental car. He takes one look at me and says, “Dude—what time’d you get home last night?”
I say, “Dude—I didn’t get home last night.”
He says, “Duuuuuuude,” and starts laughing, probably remembering the conversation we’d had only about two weeks earlier wherein I’d seriously posited that I might never, actually, have sex again for the rest of my life, ever. He says, “So you gave in, huh?”
“Yudhi,” I replied, “let me tell you a story. Last summer, right before I left the States, I went to visit my grandparents in upstate New York. My grandfather’s wife—his second wife—is this really nice lady named Gale, in her eighties now. She hauled out this old photo album and showed me pictures from the 1930s, when she was eighteen years old and went on a trip to Europe for a year with her two best friends and a guardian. She’s flipping through these pages, showing me these amazing old photographs of Italy, and suddenly we get to this picture of this really cute young Italian guy, in Venice. I go, ‘Gale—who’s the hottie?’ She goes, ‘That’s the son of the people who owned the hotel where we stayed in Venice. He was my boyfriend.’ I go, ‘Your boyfriend?’ And my grandfather’s sweet wife looks at me all sly and her eyes get all sexy like Bette Davis, and she goes, ‘I was tired of looking at churches, Liz.’ ”
Yudhi gives me a high five. “Rock on, dude.”
We set off for our fake American road trip across Bali, me and this cool young Indonesian musical genius in exile, the back of our car filled with guitars and beer and the Balinese equivalent of American road trip food—fried rice crackers and dreadfully flavored indigenous candies. The details of our journey are a bit blurry to me now, smudged over my distracting thoughts of Felipe and by the weird haziness that always accompanies a road trip in any country of the world. What I do remember is that Yudhi and I speak American the entire time—a language I hadn’t spoken in so long. I’d been speaking English a lot during this year, of course, but not American, and definitely not the sort of hip-hop American Yudhi likes. So we just indulge it, turning ourselves into MTV-watching adolescents as we drive along, razzing each other like teenagers in Hoboken, calling each other dude and man and sometimes—with great tenderness—homo. A lot of our dialogue revolves around affectionate insults to each other’s mothers.
“Dude, what’d you do with the map?”
“Why don’t you ask your mother what I did with the map?”
“I would, man, but she’s too fat.”
And so forth.
We don’t even penetrate the interior of Bali; we just drive along the coast, and it’s beaches, beaches, beaches for a whole week. Sometimes we take a little fishing boat out to an island, see what’s going on out there. There are so many kinds of beaches in Bali. We hang out one day along the long southern California–style groovy white sand surf of Kuta, then head up to the sinister black rocky beauty of the west coast, then we pass that invisible Balinese dividing line over which regular tourists never seem to go, up to the wild beaches of the north coast where only the surfers dare to tread (and only the crazy ones, at that). We sit on the beach and watch the dangerous waves, watch the lean brown and white Indonesian and Western surf-cats slice across the water like zippers ripping open the backs of the ocean’s blue party dress. We watch the surfers wipe out with bone-breaking hubris against the coral and rocks, only to go back out again to surf another wave, and we gasp and say, “Dude, that is totally MESSED UP.”
Just as intended, we forget for long hours (purely for Yudhi’s benefit) that we are in Indonesia at all as we tool around in this rented car, eating junk food and singing American songs, having pizza everywhere we can find it. When we are overcome by evidence of the Bali-ness of our surroundings, we try to ignore it and pretend we’re back in America. I’ll ask, “What’s the best route to get past this volcano?” and Yudhi will say, “I think we should take I-95,” and I’ll counter, “But that’ll take us right through Boston in the middle of rush-hour traffic . . .” It’s just a game, but it sort of works.
Sometimes we discover calm stretches of blue ocean and we swim all day, permitting each other to start drinking beer at 10:00 AM (“Dude—it’s medicinal”). We make friends with everyone we encounter. Yudhi is the kind of guy who—when he’s walking down the beach and he sees a man building a boat—will stop and say, “Wow! Are you building a boat?” And his curiosity is so perfectly winning that the next thing you know we’ve been invited to come live with the boat-builder’s family for a year.
Weird things happen in the evenings. We stumble on mysterious temple rituals in the middle of nowhere, let ourselves get hypnotized by the chorus of voices, drums and gamelan. We find one small seaside town where all the locals have gathered in a darkened street for a birthday ceremony; Yudhi and I are both pulled out of the crowd (honored strangers) and invited to dance with the prettiest girl in the village. (She’s enveloped in gold and jewels and incense and Egyptian-looking makeup; she’s probably thirteen years old but moves her hips with the soft, sensual faith of a creature who knows she could seduce any god she wanted.) The next day we find a strange family restaurant in the same village where the Balinese proprietor announces that he’s a great chef of Thai food, which he decidedly is not, but we spend the whole day there anyhow, drinking icy Cokes and eating greasy pad thai and playing Milton Bradley board games with the owner’s elegantly effeminate teenage son. (It occurs to us only later that this pretty teenage boy could well have been the beautiful female dancer from the night before; the Balinese are masters of ritual transvestism.)
Every day I call Felipe from whatever outback phone I can find, and he asks, “How many more sleeps until you come back to me?” He tells me, “I’m enjoying falling in love with you, darling. It feels so natural, like it’s something I experience every second week, but actually I haven’t felt this way about anyone in nearly thirty years.”
Not there yet, not yet to that place of a free fall into love, I make hesitant noises, little reminders that I am leaving in a few months. Felipe is unconcerned. He says, “Maybe this is just some stupid romantic South American idea, but I need you to understand—darling, for you, I am even willing to suffer. Whatever pain happens to us in the future, I accept it already, just for the pleasure of being with you now. Let’s enjoy this time. It’s marvelous.”
I tell him, “You know—it’s funny, but I’d been seriously thinking before I met you that I might be alone and celibate forever. I was thinking maybe I would live the life of a spiritual contemplative.”
He says, “Contemplate this, darling . . . ,” and then proceeds to detail with careful specificity the first, second, third, fourth and fifth things he is planning to do with my body when he gets me alone in his bed again. I wobble away from the phone call a little woozy in the knees, amused and bamboozled by all this new passion.
The last day of our road trip, Yudhi and I lounge on a beach someplace for hours, and—as often happens with us—we start talking about New York City again, how great it is, how much we love it. Yudhi misses the city, he says, almost as much as he misses his wife—as if New York is a person, a relative, whom he has lost since he got deported. As we’re talking, Yudhi brushes off a nice clean patch of white sand between our towels and draws a map of Manhattan.
He says, “Let’s try to fill in everything we can remember about the city.” We use our fingertips to draw in all the avenues, the major cross-streets, the mess that Broadway makes as it leans crookedly across the island, the rivers, the Village, Central Park. We choose a thin, pretty seashell to stand for the Empire State Building, and another shell is the Chrysler Building. Out of respect, we take two sticks and put the Twin Towers back at the base of the island, back where they belong.
We use this sandy map to show each other our favorite spots in New York. This is where Yudhi bought the sunglasses he’s wearing right now; this is where I bought the sandals I’m wearing. This is where I first had dinner with my ex-husband; this is where Yudhi met his wife. This is the best Vietnamese food in the city, this is the best bagel, this is the best noodle shop (“No way, homo—this is the best noodle shop”). I sketch out my old Hell’s Kitchen neighborhood and Yudhi says, “I know a good diner up there.”
“Tick-Tock, Cheyenne or Starlight?” I ask.
“Tick-Tock, dude.”
“Ever try the egg creams at Tick-Tock?”
He moans, “Oh my God, I know . . .”
I feel his longing for New York so deeply that for a moment I mistake it for my own. His homesickness infects me so completely that I forget for an instant that I am actually free to go back to Manhattan someday, though he is not. He fiddles a bit with the two sticks of the Twin Towers, anchors them more solidly in the sand, then looks out at the hushed, blue ocean and says, “I know it’s beautiful here . . . but do you think I’ll ever see America again?”
What can I tell him?
We slump into silence. Then he pops out of his mouth the yucky Indonesian hard candy he’s been sucking on for the last hour and says, “Dude, this candy tastes like ass. Where’d you get it?”
“From your mother, dude,” I say. “From your mother.”
99
When we return to Ubud, I go straight back to Felipe’s house and don’t leave his bedroom for approximately another month. This is only the faintest of exaggerations. I have never been loved and adored like this before by anyone, never with such pleasure and single-minded concentration. Never have I been so unpeeled, revealed, unfurled and hurled through the event of lovemaking.
One thing I do know about intimacy is that there are certain natural laws which govern the sexual experience of two people, and that these laws cannot be budged any more than gravity can be negotiated with. To feel physically comfortable with someone else’s body is not a decision you can make. It has very little to do with how two people think or act or talk or even look. The mysterious magnet is either there, buried somewhere deep behind the sternum, or it is not. When it isn’t there (as I have learned in the past, with heartbreaking clarity) you can no more force it to exist than a surgeon can force a patient’s body to accept a kidney from the wrong donor. My friend Annie says it all comes down to one simple question: “Do you want your belly pressed against this person’s belly forever—or not?”
Felipe and I, as we discover to our delight, are a perfectly matched, genetically engineered belly-to-belly success story. There are no parts of our bodies which are in any way allergic to any parts of the other’s body. Nothing is dangerous, nothing is difficult, nothing is refused. Everything in our sensual universe is—simply and thoroughly—complemented. And, also . . . complimented.
“Look at you,” Felipe says, taking me to the mirror after we’ve made love again, showing me my nude body and my hair that looks like I just came through a NASA space-training centrifuge. He says, “Look how beautiful you are . . . every line of you is a curve . . . you look like sand dunes . . .”
(Indeed, I do not think my body has looked or felt this relaxed in its life, not since I was maybe six months old and my mother took snapshots of me all blissed-out on a towel on the kitchen counter after a nice bath in the kitchen sink.)
And then he leads me back to the bed, saying, in Portuguese, “Vem, gostosa.”
Come here, my delicious one.
Felipe is also the endearment master. In bed he slips into adoring me in Portuguese, so I have graduated from being his “lovely little darling” to being his queridinha. (Literal translation: “lovely little darling.”) I’ve been too lazy here in Bali to try to learn Indonesian or Balinese, but suddenly Portuguese is coming easily to me. Of course I’m only learning the pillow talk, but that’s a fine use of Portuguese. He says, “Darling, you’re going to get sick of it. You’re going to get bored of how much I touch you, and how many times a day I tell you how beautiful you are.”
Try me, mister.
I’m losing days here, disappearing under his sheets, under his hands. I like the feeling of not knowing what the date is. My nice organized schedule has been blown away by the breeze. I finally do stop by to see my medicine man one afternoon after a long hiatus of no visiting. Ketut sees the truth on my face before I say a word.
“You found boyfriend in Bali,” he says.
“Yes, Ketut.”
“Good. Be careful not get pregnant.”
“I will.”
“He good man?”
“You tell me, Ketut,” I said. “You read his palm. You promised that he was a good man. You said it about seven times.”
“I did? When?”
“Back in June. I brought him here. He was the Brazilian man, older than me. You told me you liked him.”
“Never did,” he insisted, and there was nothing I could do to convince him otherwise. Sometimes Ketut loses things from his recollection, as you would, too, if you were somewhere between sixty-five and a hundred and twelve years old. Most of the time he’s keen and sharp, but other times I feel like I’ve disturbed him out of some other plane of consciousness, out of some other universe. (A few weeks ago he said to me, completely out of nowhere, “You good friend to me, Liss. Loyal friend. Loving friend.” Then he sighed, stared off into space and added mournfully, “Not like Sharon.” Who the hell is Sharon? What did she do to him? When I tried asking him about it, he would give me no answer. Acted suddenly like he didn’t know who I was even referring to. As if I were the one who’d brought up that thieving hussy Sharon in the first place.)
“Why you never bring boyfriend here to meet me?” he asked now.
“I did, Ketut. Really I did. And you told me you liked him.”
“Don’t remember. He a rich man, your boyfriend?”
“No, Ketut. He’s not a rich man. But he has enough money.”
“Medium rich?” The medicine man wants details, spreadsheets.
“He has enough money.”
My answer seemed to irritate Ketut. “You ask this man for money, he can give to you, or not?”
“Ketut, I don’t want money from him. I’ve never taken money from a man.”
“You spend every night with him?”
“Yes.”
“Good. He spoil you?”
“Very much.”
“Good. You still meditate?”
Yes, I do still meditate every day of the week, slithering out of Felipe’s bed and over to the couch, where I can sit in silence and offer up some gratitude for all of this. Outside his porch, the ducks quack their way through the rice paddies, gossiping and splashing all over the place. (Felipe says that these flocks of busy Balinese ducks have always reminded him of Brazilian women strutting down the beaches in Rio; chatting loudly and interrupting each other constantly and waggling their bottoms with such pride.) I am so relaxed now that I kind of slide into meditation like it’s a bath prepared by my lover. Naked in the morning sun, with nothing but a light blanket wrapped over my shoulders, I disappear into grace, hovering over the void like a tiny seashell balanced on a teaspoon.
Why did life ever seem difficult?
I call my friend Susan back in New York City one day, and listen as she confides to me, over the typical urban police sirens wailing in the background, the latest details of her latest broken heart. My voice comes out in the cool, smooth tones of a late-nite, jazz
-radio DJ, as I tell her how she just has to let go, man, how she’s gotta learn that everything is just perfect as it is already, that the universe provides, baby, that it’s all peace and harmony out there . . .
I can almost hear her rolling her eyes as she says over the sirens, “Spoken like a woman who already had four orgasms today.”
100
But all the fun and games caught up with me after a few weeks. After all those nights of not sleeping and all those days of too much lovemaking, my body struck back and I got attacked by a nasty infection in my bladder. A typical affliction of the overly sexed, especially likely to strike when you’re not used to being overly sexed anymore. It came up as fast as any tragedy can strike. I was walking through town one morning doing some chores when suddenly I was buckled over with burning pain and fever. I’d had these infections before, during my wayward youth, so I knew what it was. I panicked for a moment—these things can be awful—but then thought, “Thank God my best friend in Bali is a healer,” and I ran into Wayan’s shop.
“I’m sick!” I said.
She took one look at me and said, “You sick from making too much sex, Liz.”
I groaned, buried my face in my hands, embarrassed.
She chuckled, said, “You can’t keep secrets from Wayan . . .”
I was in godawful pain. Anyone who’s ever had this infection knows the dreadful feeling; anyone who hasn’t experienced this specific suffering—well, just make up your own torturous metaphor, preferably using the term “fire poker” someplace in the sentence.
Wayan, like a veteran firefighter or an ER surgeon, never moves fast. She methodically started chopping some herbs, boiling some roots, wandering back and forth between her kitchen and me, bringing me one warm, brown, toxic-tasting concoction after another, saying, “Drink, honey . . .”
Whenever the next batch boiled, she would sit across from me, giving me sly, dirty looks and using the opportunity to get nosy.