The Sun Also Rises

  Robert Cohn stood in the shade of the arcade waiting for us to start. A Basque with a big leather wine bag in his lap lay across the top of the bus in front of our seat, leaning back against our legs. He offered the wineskin to Bill and to me, and when I tipped it up to drink he imitated the sound of a klaxon motor horn so well and so suddenly that I spilled some of the wine, and everybody laughed. He apologized and made me take another drink. He made the klaxon again a little later, and it fooled me the second time. He was very good at it. The Basques liked it. The man next to Bill was talking to him in Spanish and Bill was not getting it, so he offered the man one of the bottles of wine. The man waved it away. He said it was too hot and he had drunk too much at lunch. When Bill offered the bottle the second time he took a long drink, and then the bottle went all over that part of the bus. Everyone took a drink very politely, and then they made us cork it up and put it away. They all wanted us to drink from their leather wine bottles. They were peasants going up into the hills.

  Finally, after a couple more false klaxons, the bus started, and Robert Cohn waved good-bye to us, and all the Basques waved good-bye to him. As soon as we started out on the road outside of town it was cool. It felt nice riding high up and close under the trees. The bus went quite fast and made a good breeze, and as we went out along the road with the dust powdering the trees and down the hill, we had a fine view, back through the trees, of the town rising up from the bluff above the river. The Basque lying against my knees pointed out the view with the neck of the wine bottle, and winked at us. He nodded his head.

  "Pretty nice, eh?"

  "These Basques are swell people," Bill said.

  The Basque lying against my legs was tanned the color of saddle-leather. He wore a black smock like all the rest. There were wrinkles in his tanned neck. He turned around and offered his wine bag to Bill. Bill handed him one of our bottles. The Basque wagged a forefinger at him and handed the bottle back, slapping in the cork with the palm of his hand. He shoved the wine bag up.

  "Arriba! Arriba!" he said. "Lift it up."

  Bill raised the wineskin and let the stream of wine spurt out and into his mouth, his head tipped back. When he stopped drinking and tipped the leather bottle down a few drops ran down his chin.

  "No! No!" several Basques said. "Not like that." One snatched the bottle away from the owner, who was himself about to give a demonstration. He was a young fellow and he held the wine bottle at full arm's length and raised it high up, squeezing the leather bag with his hand so the stream of wine hissed into his mouth. He held the bag out there, the wine making a flat, hard trajectory into his mouth, and he kept on swallowing smoothly and regularly.

  "Hey!" the owner of the bottle shouted. "Whose wine is that?"

  The drinker waggled his little finger at him and smiled at us with his eyes. Then he bit the stream off sharp, made a quick lift with the wine bag and lowered it down to the owner. He winked at us. The owner shook the wineskin sadly.

  We passed through a town and stopped in front of the posada, and the driver took on several packages. Then we started on again, and outside the town the road commenced to mount. We were going through farming country with rocky hills that sloped down into the fields. The grain fields went up the hillsides. Now as we went higher there was a wind blowing the grain. The road was white and dusty, and the dust rose under the wheels and hung in the air behind us. The road climbed up into the hills and left the rich grain fields below. Now there were only patches of grain on the bare hillsides and on each side of the water courses. We turned sharply out to the side of the road to give room to pass to a long string of six mules, following one after the other, hauling a high-hooded wagon loaded with freight. The wagon and the mules were covered with dust. Close behind was another string of mules and another wagon. This was loaded with lumber, and the arriero driving the mules leaned back and put on the thick wooden brakes as we passed. Up here the country was quite barren and the hills were rocky and hard-baked clay furrowed by the rain.

  We came around a curve into a town, and on both sides opened out a sudden green valley. A stream went through the centre of the town and fields of grapes touched the houses.

  The bus stopped in front of a posada and many of the passengers got down, and a lot of the baggage was unstrapped from the roof from under the big tarpaulins and lifted down. Bill and I got down and went into the posada. There was a low, dark room with saddles and harness, and hayforks made of white wood, and clusters of canvas rope-soled shoes and hams and slabs of bacon and white garlics and long sausages hanging from the roof. It was cool and dusky, and we stood in front of a long wooden counter with two women behind it serving drinks. Behind them were shelves stacked with supplies and goods.

  We each had an aguardiente and paid forty centimes for the two drinks. I gave the woman fifty centimes to make a tip, and she gave me back the copper piece, thinking I had misunderstood the price.

  Two of our Basques came in and insisted on buying a drink. So they bought a drink and then we bought a drink, and then they slapped us on the back and bought another drink. Then we bought, and then we all went out into the sunlight and the heat, and climbed back on top of the bus. There was plenty of room now for everyone to sit on the seat, and the Basque who had been lying on the tin roof now sat between us. The woman who had been serving drinks came out wiping her hands on her apron and talked to somebody inside the bus. Then the driver came out swinging two flat leather mail pouches and climbed up, and everybody waving we started off.

  The road left the green valley at once, and we were up in the hills again. Bill and the wine bottle Basque were having a conversation. A man leaned over from the other side of the seat and asked in English: "You're Americans?"

  "Sure."

  "I been there," he said. "Forty years ago."

  He was an old man, as brown as the others, with the stubble of a white beard.

  "How was it?"

  "What you say?"

  "How was America?"

  "Oh, I was in California. It was fine."

  "Why did you leave?"

  "What you say?"

  "Why did you come back here?"

  "Oh! I come back to get married. I was going to go back but my wife she don't like to travel. Where you from?"

  "Kansas City."

  "I been there," he said. "I been in Chicago, St. Louis, Kansas City, Denver, Los Angeles, Salt Lake City."

  He named them carefully. "How long were you over?"

  "Fifteen years. Then I come back and got married."

  "Have a drink?"

  "All right," he said. "You can't get this in America, eh?"

  "There's plenty if you can pay for it."

  "What you come over here for?"

  "We're going to the fiesta at Pamplona."

  "You like the bullfights?"

  "Sure. Don't you?"

  "Yes," he said. "I guess I like them."

  Then after a little:

  "Where you go now?"

  "Up to Burguete to fish."

  "Well," he said, "I hope you catch something."

  He shook hands and turned around to the back seat again. The other Basques had been impressed. He sat back comfortably and smiled at me when I turned around to look at the country. But the effort of talking American seemed to have tired him. He did not say anything after that.

  The bus climbed steadily up the road. The country was barren and rocks stuck up through the clay. There was no grass beside the road. Looking back we could see the country spread out below. Far back the fields were squares of green and brown on the hillsides. Making the horizon were the brown mountains. They were strangely shaped. As we climbed higher the horizon kept changing. As the bus ground slowly up the road we could see other mountains coming up in the south. Then the road came over the crest, flattened out, and went into a forest. It was a forest of cork oaks, and the sun came through the trees in patches, and there were cattle grazing back in the trees. We went through the forest and the road cam
e out and turned along a rise of land, and out ahead of us was a rolling green plain, with dark mountains beyond it. These were not like the brown, heat-baked mountains we had left behind. These were wooded and there were clouds coming down from them. The green plain stretched off. It was cut by fences and the white of the road showed through the trunks of a double line of trees that crossed the plain toward the north. As we came to the edge of the rise we saw the red roofs and white houses of Burguete ahead strung out on the plain, and away off on the shoulder of the first dark mountain was the gray metal-sheathed roof of the monastery of Roncesvalles.

  "There's Roncevaux," I said.

  "Where?"

  "Way off there where the mountain starts."

  "It's cold up here," Bill said.

  "It's high," I said. "It must be twelve hundred metres."

  "It's awful cold," Bill said.

  The bus levelled down onto the straight line of road that ran to Burguete. We passed a crossroads and crossed a bridge over a stream. The houses of Burguete were along both sides of the road. There were no side streets. We passed the church and the schoolyard, and the bus stopped. We got down and the driver handed down our bags and the rod-case. A carabineer in his cocked hat and yellow leather cross-straps came up.

  "What's in there?" he pointed to the rod-case.

  I opened it and showed him. He asked to see our fishing permits and I got them out. He looked at the date and then waved us on "Is that all right?" I asked. "Yes. Of course."

  We went up the street, past the whitewashed stone houses, families sitting in their doorways watching us, to the inn.

  The fat woman who ran the inn came out from the kitchen and shook hands with us. She took off her spectacles, wiped them, and put them on again. It was cold in the inn and the wind was starting to blow outside. The woman sent a girl upstairs with us to show the room. There were two beds, a washstand, a clothes chest, and a big, framed steel engraving of Nuestra Senora de Roncesvalles. The wind was blowing against the shutters. The room was on the north side of the inn. We washed, put on sweaters, and came downstairs into the dining room. It had a stone floor, low ceiling, and was oak panelled. The shutters were all up and it was so cold you could see your breath.

  "My God!" said Bill. "It can't be this cold tomorrow. I'm not going to wade a stream in this weather."

  There was an upright piano in the far corner of the room beyond the wooden tables and Bill went over and started to play.

  "I got to keep warm," he said.

  I went out to find the woman and ask her how much the room and board was. She put her hands under her apron and looked away from me.

  "Twelve pesetas."

  "Why, we only paid that in Pamplona."

  She did not say anything, just took off her glasses and wiped them on her apron.

  "That's too much," I said. 'We didn't pay more than that at a big hotel."

  "We've put in a bathroom."

  "Haven't you got anything cheaper?"

  "Not in the summer. Now is the big season."

  We were the only people in the inn. Well, I thought, it's only a few days.

  "Is the wine included?"

  "Oh, yes."

  "Well," I said. "It's all right."

  I went back to Bill. He blew his breath at me to show how cold it was, and went on playing. I sat at one of the tables and looked at the pictures on the wall. There was one panel of rabbits, dead, one of pheasants, also dead, and one panel of dead ducks. The panels were all dark and smoky-looking. There was a cupboard full of liqueur bottles. I looked at them all. Bill was still playing. "How about a hot rum punch?" he said. "This isn't going to keep me warm permanently."

  I went out and told the woman what a rum punch was and how to make it. In a few minutes a girl brought a stone pitcher, steaming, into the room. Bill came over from the piano and we drank the hot punch and listened to the wind.

  "There isn't too much rum in that."

  I went over to the cupboard and brought the rum bottle and poured a half-tumblerful into the pitcher.

  "Direct action," said Bill. "It beats legislation."

  The girl came in and laid the table for supper.

  "It blows like hell up here," Bill said.

  The girl brought in a big bowl of hot vegetable soup and the wine. We had fried trout afterward and some sort of a stew and a big bowl full of wild strawberries. We did not lose money on the wine, and the girl was shy but nice about bringing it. The old woman looked in once and counted the empty bottles.

  After supper we went upstairs and smoked and read in bed to keep warm. Once in the night I woke and heard the wind blowing. It felt good to be warm and in bed.

  Chapter XII

  When I woke in the morning I went to the window and looked out. It had cleared and there were no clouds on the mountains. Outside under the window were some carts and an old diligence, the wood of the roof cracked and split by the weather. It must have been left from the days before the motor buses. A goat hopped up on one of the carts and then to the roof of the diligence. He jerked his head at the other goats below and when I waved at him he bounded down.

  Bill was still sleeping, so I dressed, put on my shoes outside in the hall, and went downstairs. No one was stirring downstairs, so I unbolted the door and went out. It was cool outside in the early morning and the sun had not yet dried the dew that had come when the wind died down. I hunted around in the shed behind the inn and found a sort of mattock, and went down toward the stream to try and dig some worms for bait. The stream was clear and shallow but it did not look trouty. On the grassy bank where it was damp I drove the mattock into the earth and loosened a chunk of sod. There were worms underneath. They slid out of sight as I lifted the sod and I dug carefully and got a good many. Digging at the edge of the damp ground I filled two empty tobacco-tins with worms and sifted dirt onto them. The goats watched me dig.

  When I went back into the inn the woman was down in the kitchen, and I asked her to get coffee for us, and that we wanted a lunch. Bill was awake and sitting on the edge of the bed.

  "I saw you out of the window," he said. "Didn't want to interrupt you. What were you doing? Burying your money?"

  "You lazy bum!"

  "Been working for the common good? Splendid. I want you to do that every morning."

  "Come on," I said. "Get up."

  "What? Get up? I never get up."

  He climbed into bed and pulled the sheet up to his chin.

  "Try and argue me into getting up."

  I went on looking for the tackle and putting it all together in the tackle bag.

  "Aren't you interested?" Bill asked.

  "I'm going down and eat."

  "Eat? Why didn't you say eat? I thought you just wanted me to get up for fun. Eat? Fine. Now you're reasonable. You go out and dig some more worms and I'll be right down."

  "Oh, go to hell!"

  "Work for the good of all." Bill stepped into his underclothes.

  "Show irony and pity."

  I started out of the room with the tackle-bag, the nets, and the rod-case.

  "Hey! Come back!"

  I put my head in the door.

  "Aren't you going to show a little irony and pity?"

  I thumbed my nose.

  "That's not irony."

  As I went downstairs I heard Bill singing, "Irony and Pity. When you're feeling... Oh, Give them Irony and Give them Pity. Oh, give them Irony. When they're feeling... Just a little irony. Just a little pity..." He kept on singing until he came downstairs. The tune was: "The Bells are Ringing for Me and my Gal." I was reading a week-old Spanish paper.

  "What's all this irony and pity?"

  "What? Don't you know about Irony and Pity?"

  "No. Who got it up?"

  "Everybody. They're mad about it in New York. It's just like the Fratellinis used to be."

  The girl came in with the coffee and buttered toast. Or, rather, it was bread toasted and buttered.

  "Ask her if she's go
t any jam," Bill said. "Be ironical with her."

  "Have you got any jam?"

  "That's not ironical. I wish I could talk Spanish."

  The coffee was good and we drank it out of big bowls. The girl brought in a glass dish of raspberry jam.

  "Thank you."

  "Hey! That's not the way," Bill said. "Say something ironical. Make some crack about Primo de Rivera."

  "I could ask her what kind of a jam they think they've gotten into in the Riff."

  "Poor," said Bill. "Very poor. You can't do it. That's all. You don't understand irony. You have no pity. Say something pitiful."

  "Robert Cohn."

  "Not so bad. That's better. Now why is Cohn pitiful? Be ironic. "

  He took a big gulp of coffee.

  "Aw, hell!" I said. "It's too early in the morning."

  'There you go. And you claim you want to be a writer, too.

  You're only a newspaper man. An expatriated newspaper man. You ought to be ironical the minute you get out of bed. You ought to wake up with your mouth full of pity."

  "Go on," I said. "Who did you get this stuff from?"

  "Everybody. Don't you read? Don't you ever see anybody? You know what you are? You're an expatriate. Why don't you live in New York? Then you'd know these things. What do you want me to do? Come over here and tell you every year?"

  "Take some more coffee," I said.

  "Good. Coffee is good for you. It's the caffeine in it. Caffeine, we are here. Caffeine puts a man on her horse and a woman in his grave. You know what's the trouble with you? You're an expatriate. One of the worst type. Haven't you heard that? Nobody that ever left their own country ever wrote anything worth printing. Not even in the newspapers."

  He drank the coffee.

  "You're an expatriate. You've lost touch with the soil. You get precious. Fake European standards have ruined you. You drink yourself to death. You become obsessed by sex. You spend all your time talking, not working. You are an expatriate, see? You hang around cafe s."