‘Very, very fine! You have learn your Hindi numbers so nicely. Now no problem for you, reading numbers for bus, and train, and menu card, and drugs purchase, and other good things. Now tell me, what is alu palak?’
‘Alu palak is potato and spinach.’
‘Good. And nice eating also, you have not mention. I love to eat it, alu palak. What is phul gobhi and bhindi?’
‘That’s … oh yeah, cauliflower and … and okra.’
‘Correct. And also good eating, again you are not mention. What is baingan masala?
‘That’s, ah, spiced eggplant.’
‘Again right! What is it, you’re not enjoying eating baingan?’
‘Yes, yes, all right! Baingan is good eating, too!’
‘I don’t like it baingan so much,’ he sneered, wrinkling up his short nose. ‘Tell me, what am I calling chehra, munh, and dil?’
‘Okay … don’t tell me … face, mouth, and heart. Is that right?’
‘Very right, no problem. I have been watching it, how nicely you eat up your foods with the hand, like a good Indian style. And how you learn to ask for the things—how much this, how much that, give me two cups of tea, I want more hashish—speaking only Hindi to the people. I have seen this all. You are my best student, Linbaba. And I am your best teacher also, isn’t it?’
‘It is, Prabu,’ I laughed. ‘Hey! Watch out!’
My shout alerted the taxi driver, who swerved just in time to avoid an ox-cart that was attempting to make a turn in front of us. The taxi driver—a burly, dark-skinned man with a bristling moustache—seemed to be outraged at my impertinence in saving our lives. When we first took the taxi he’d adjusted his mirror until he saw nothing in it but my face. After the near miss he glared at me, snarling a growl of insults in Hindi. He drove the cab like a getaway car, slewing left and right to overtake slower vehicles. There was an angry, bullying pugnacity in his attitude to everyone else on the road. He rushed to within centimetres of every slower car in his path, sounding his horn, then all but nudging it out of the way. If the slower car moved a little to the left, in order to let him pass, our driver drew beside it, pacing it for a time and shouting insults. When he spied another slow vehicle ahead, he sped forward to repeat the procedure. From time to time he opened his door and leaned out over the road to spit paan juice, taking his eyes off the traffic ahead for long seconds as we hurtled along in the rattling cab.
‘This guy’s a nut-case!’ I muttered to Prabaker.
‘Driving is not so good,’ Prabaker replied, bracing himself with both arms against the back of the driver’s seat. ‘But I have to say, the spitting and insulting is a first-class job.’
‘For Christ’s sake, tell him to stop!’ I shouted as the cab accelerated into a squall of traffic, lurching in the swerve left and right. ‘He’s going to kill us!’
‘Band karo!’ Prabaker shouted. Stop!
He added a pithy curse, for good measure, but the driver only became more enraged. With the car hurtling along at top speed, he turned his head to snarl at us. His mouth was wide open, and his teeth were bared. His eyes were huge, their blackness streaked with rage.
‘Arrey!’ Prabaker shrieked, pointing past the driver.
It was too late. The man turned quickly. His arms stiffened at the wheel, and he hit the brakes hard. There was a skating, sliding second … two seconds … three seconds. I heard a guttural gasp of air from deep in his throat. It was a sucking sound, like the lifting of a flat stone from the moist clay on the edge of a riverbed. Then there was the whump and crash as we slammed into a car that had stopped in front of us to make a turn. We were thrown forward into the back of his seat, and heard two thumping explosions as two other cars rammed into us.
Shattered glass and chrome fragments rattled on the road like thin metallic applause in the sudden silence that followed the impacts. My head had hit the door in the tumble spill of the accident. I felt blood flowing from a cut above my eye, but I was otherwise unhurt. As I wriggled myself up from the floor, and onto the back seat once more, I felt Prabaker’s hands on me.
‘Nothing broken you are, Lin? You are okay?’
‘I’m okay, I’m okay.’
‘You are sure? Everything not broken?’
‘Jesus, Prabu, I don’t care how good this guy’s spitting is,’ I said, laughing nervously, and ragged with relief, ‘he doesn’t get a tip. Are you all right?’
‘We must get out, Lin!’ he answered, his voice rising to a hysterical whine. ‘Out! Out of here! Now!’
The door on his side was jammed shut, and he began to push at it with his shoulder. He couldn’t budge it. He reached across me to try the door on my side, but saw at once that another car was jammed against it, pinning it shut. Our eyes met, and there was such fear in him, such terror in the white-rimmed bulge of his eyes, that I felt the coldness of it deep in my chest. He turned at once, and threw himself again at the door on his side.
My mind was muddy water, and one idea splashed up from it, clear and exclusive: FIRE. Is that what he’s afraid of? Once I’d asked myself the question I couldn’t stop thinking it. I looked at the terror that pulled at Prabaker’s gasping mouth, and I was sure the taxi was going to catch fire. I knew we were trapped there. The rear windows, in all the Bombay taxis I’d seen, didn’t open beyond a few centimetres. The doors were jammed, and the windows wouldn’t open, and the taxi was going to explode in fire, and we were trapped. Burned alive … Is that why he’s so scared?
I looked to the driver. He was slumped, awkwardly, between the steering wheel and the door. His body was still, but I heard him moaning. Beneath the thin shirt, the abacus ridge of his spine rose and fell with each slow and shallow breath.
Faces appeared at the windows of the cab, and I heard excited voices. Prabaker looked out at them, turning this way and that, his face cramped in an expression of terrible anguish. Suddenly, he clambered over the seat into the front of the car and wrestled the passenger door open. Turning swiftly and grabbing at my arms with surprising strength, he tried to drag me by main force over the seat that divided us.
‘This way, Lin! Get out, now! Hurry! Hurry!’
I climbed up and over the seat. Prabaker got out of the car, pushing his way into a crowd of onlookers. I reached out to the driver, trying to prise him from the obstructing rim of the steering wheel, but Prabaker’s hands were on me again, brutally rough. The fingernails of one hand tore into the skin of my back, and the other wrenched at the collar of my shirt.
‘Don’t touch him, Lin!’ he almost screamed. ‘Don’t touch him! Leave him and get out. Get out now!’
He dragged me from the car and through the hedge of bodies pressing in on the accident. On a footpath nearby, we sat beneath a fringe of hawthorn leaves that overhung a fence of wrought-iron spears, and inspected one another for injuries. The cut on my forehead, above my right eye, wasn’t as serious as I’d thought. The bleeding had already stopped, and it began to weep a clear, plasmic fluid. I was sore in a few places, but it was no cause for concern. Prabaker cradled his arm—the same arm that had pulled me from the car with such irresistible power—and it was obvious that he was in pain. A large swelling had already formed near the elbow. I knew it would leave a nasty bruise, but nothing seemed to be broken.
‘Looks like you were wrong, Prabu,’ I chided, smiling as I lit a cigarette for him.
‘Wrong, baba?’
‘Getting us out of the car in such a panic and all. You really had me going. I thought the damn thing was going to catch fire, but it looks okay.’
‘Oh,’ he replied softly, staring straight ahead. ‘You think I was frightening for fire? Not fire in the car, Lin, but fire in the people. Look, now. See the public, how they are.’
We stood, stretching the ache from shoulders and whip-lashed necks, and looked toward the wreckage some ten metres away. About thirty people had gathered around the four crashed vehicles. A few of them were helping drivers and passengers from the damaged cars. The rest huddl
ed together in groups, gesturing wildly and shouting. More people streamed toward the site from every direction. Drivers of other cars that had been blocked from travelling further, left their vehicles and joined the crowd. The thirty people became fifty, eighty, then a hundred as we watched.
One man was the centre of attention. It was his car that had been trying to turn right, his car we’d smashed into with the brakes on full lock. He stood beside the taxi, bellowing with rage. He was a round-shouldered man, in his middle forties, wearing a grey, cotton safari suit that had been tailored to accommodate the extravagant boast of his large paunch. His thinning hair was awry. The breast pocket of his suit had been torn, there was a rip in his trousers, and he’d lost one sandal. That dishevelment combined with his theatrical gestures and persistent shouting to present a spectacle that seemed to be more enthralling, for the crowd of onlookers, than the wreckage of the cars. His hand had been cut from the palm to the wrist. As the staring crowd grew more silent, subdued by the drama, he smeared blood from the wound on his face and beat the redness into the grey of his suit, shouting all the while.
Just then, some men carried a woman into the little clear space around the man, and placed her on a piece of cloth that was stretched out on the ground for her. They shouted instructions to the crowd, and in moments a wooden cart appeared, pushed by bare-chested men wearing only singlets and short lungis. The woman was lifted onto the cart, her red sari gathered up in folds and wrapped about her legs. She may have been the man’s wife—I couldn’t be sure—but his rage suddenly grew hysterical. He seized her roughly by the shoulders and shook her. He pulled at her hair. He appealed to the crowd with enormous, histrionic gestures, flinging his arms wide and then striking his own blood-streaked face. They were the gestures of pantomime, the exaggerated simulations of silent films, and I couldn’t help thinking they were absurd and funny. But the injuries people had sustained were real, as were the rumbling threats that surged through the ever-increasing crowd.
As the semi-conscious woman was trundled away on the humble cart, the man hurled himself at the door of the taxi, wrenching it open. The crowd reacted as one. They dragged the dazed and injured taxi driver from his cab in an instant and flung him on the bonnet of the car. He raised his arms in feeble pleading, but a dozen, twenty, fifty hands punched and tore at him. Blows drummed on his face, chest, stomach, and groin. Fingernails scratched and ripped, tearing his mouth open on one side almost to the ear, and shredding his shirt to rags.
It happened in seconds. I told myself, as I watched the beating, that it was all too fast, that I was dazed, and there was no time to react. What we call cowardice is often just another name for being taken by surprise, and courage is seldom any better than simply being well prepared. And I might’ve done more, I might’ve done something, anything, if it had happened in Australia. It’s not your country, I told myself, as I watched the beating. It’s not your culture …
But there was another thought, dark and secret then, and all too clear to me now: the man was an idiot, an insulting and belligerent idiot, whose reckless stupidity had risked Prabaker’s life and mine. A splinter of spite had pierced my heart when the crowd turned on him, and at least some small particle of their revenge—a blow or a shout or a shove—was my own. Helpless, craven, ashamed, I did nothing.
‘We’ve got to do something …’ I said lamely.
‘Enough people are doing, baba,’ Prabaker replied.
‘No, I mean, we’ve got to … can’t we help him, somehow?’
‘For this fellow is no helping,’ he sighed. ‘Now you see it, Lin. Accidents is very bad business in Bombay. Better you get out of that car, or taxi, or what is it you are in, very, very quickly. The public are not having patience for such business. See now, it is too late for that fellow.’
The beating was swift, but savage. Blood streamed from many cuts on the man’s face and naked torso. At a signal, perceived, somehow, through the howl and shriek of the crowd, the man was lifted up and carried off at head height. His legs were pressed together and stretched out, held rigid by a dozen hands. His arms were splayed out at right angles to his body and held fast. His head lolled and fell back, the soft, wet flap of skin hanging from cheek to jaw. His eyes were open, conscious, staring backward and upside down: black eyes, scudded with fear and imbecile hope. Traffic on the far side of the road parted to let the people pass, and the man slowly disappeared, crucified on the hands and shoulders of the crowd.
‘Come on, Lin. Let’s go. You are okay?’
‘I’m all right,’ I mumbled, forcing myself to shuffle into step beside him. My self-assurance had melted through muscle and bone to settle in my knees. Each step was leaden and willed. It wasn’t the violence that had shaken me. I’d seen worse, and with far less provocation, in prison. It was, instead, the too-sudden collapse of my stilted complacencies. The weeks of the city I’d thought I was beginning to know—the Bombay of temples, bazaars, restaurants, and new friends—had cindered in the fires of that public rage.
‘What … what are they going to do with him?’
‘They will take him to police, I think so. Behind Crawford Market is one police station, for this area. Maybe he will have the luck—maybe alive, he will reach there. Maybe not. He has a very quickly Karma, this fellow.’
‘You’ve seen this before?’
‘Oh, many times, Linbaba. Sometimes, I drive it my cousin Shantu’s taxi. I have seen so many angry publics. That is why I was getting so afraid for you, and for my good self also.’
‘Why does it happen like that? Why did they get so crazy about it?’
‘That is nobody knows, Lin,’ Prabaker shrugged, quickening his pace a little.
‘Wait a minute,’ I paused, slowing him with a hand to his shoulder. ‘Where are we going?’
‘Still going for the tour, isn’t it?’
‘I thought … maybe … you want to call it off, for today.’
‘Calling off why? We have it a real and full deal to see, Linbaba. So, let’s go, na?
‘But what about your arm? Don’t you want to get it seen to?’
‘No problem this arms, Lin. For last of the touring, we will have some whisky drinks in a terrible place I know. That will be a good medicine. So come on, let’s go now, baba.’
‘Well, okay, if you say so. But we were going the other way, weren’t we?’
‘Still going the other way, baba,’ Prabaker replied with some urgency. ‘But first going this way only! Over there is a telephone, at the station. I must call my cousin, working now at Sunshine restaurant, as the dishes-washing boy. He is wanting a taxi-driving job, for his brother, Suresh, and I must give it the number and boss-name of the driver, now gone with the people. That fellow’s boss will be needing a new driver now, and we must hurry for such a good chance, isn’t it?’
Prabaker made that call. Seconds later, he continued his tour of the dark side of the city without a heartbeat of hesitation, in another taxi, as if nothing had happened. Nor did he ever raise the matter with me again. When I occasionally spoke of it, he responded with a shrug, or some bland comment about our good luck in avoiding serious injury. For him, the incident was like a brawl in a nightclub, or a clash of rival supporters at a football match—commonplace and unremarkable, unless you happen to be in the centre of it.
But for me that sudden, savage, bewildering riot, the sight of that taxi-driver floating away on a rippling wave of hands, shoulders, and heads was a turning point. A new understanding emerged from it. I suddenly realised that if I wanted to stay there, in Bombay, the city I’d already fallen in love with, I had to change. I had to get involved. The city wouldn’t let me be a watcher, aloof and apart. If I wanted to stay, I had to expect that she would drag me into the river of her rapture, and her rage. Sooner or later, I knew, I would have to step off the pavement and into the bloody crowd, and put my body on the line.
And with the seed of that resolve, born in that convulsion and portent, Prabaker’s dark circuit
of the city began. When we resumed our tour, he took me to a slave market not far from Dongri, an inner suburb famous for its mosques, bazaars, and restaurants specialising in Mughlai dishes. The main road became streets and the streets became lanes and, when those proved too narrow for the taxi to negotiate, we left the vehicle and walked together in the sinuous busyness of the crowds. The further we travelled into the Catiline lanes, the more we lost of the day, the year, the very age in which we lived. As automobiles and then scooters disappeared, the air became clearer, sharper, with the scents of spices and perfumes undulled by the diesel and petrol fumes prevalent elsewhere. Traffic noise faded, ceased, and was replaced by street sound—a class of children reciting verses from the Koran in a little courtyard; the whirr and scrape of stone on stone, as women ground spices in doorways; and the whining optimism of cries from knife sharpeners, mattress-fluffers, stove repairers, and other hawkers. They were people sounds, everywhere, played with voice and hand.
At one turn in the puzzle alleyways we passed a long metal rack where bicycles were parked. From then on, even those simple machines vanished. Goods were transported by bearers with enormous bundles on their heads. One burden usually carried by all, the thudding pressure of the Bombay sun, was lifted from us: the lanes were dark, cool, shadowless. Although only three and at most four storeys tall, the buildings leaned in upon the winding pathways, and the sky was reduced to a thin brush stroke of pale blue.
The buildings themselves were ancient and dilapidated. Stone facades, which had once been splendid and impressive, were crumbling, grimed, and patched with haphazard necessity. Here and there, small balconies jutted out to meet one another overhead, so close that neighbours could reach across and pass things with an out-stretched hand. Glimpses inside the houses showed unpainted walls and sagging staircases. Many ground-floor windows were held open to reveal makeshift shops for the sale of sweets, cigarettes, groceries, vegetables, and utensils. It was clear that the plumbing was rudimentary, where it was connected at all. We passed several places where women gathered with metal or clay pots to collect water from a single, outside tap. And skeined over all the buildings like metal cobwebs were complicated traceries of electrical conduits and wires, as if even that symbol and source of the modern age and its power was no more than a fragile, temporary net that might be swept away by a rough gesture.