CHAPTER 14
THE _Jane Guy_ was a fine-looking topsail schooner of a hundred andeighty tons burden. She was unusually sharp in the bows, and on a wind,in moderate weather, the fastest sailer I have ever seen. Her qualities,however, as a rough sea-boat, were not so good, and her draught of waterwas by far too great for the trade to which she was destined. For thispeculiar service, a larger vessel, and one of a light proportionatedraught, is desirable--say a vessel of from three hundred to threehundred and fifty tons. She should be bark-rigged, and in other respectsof a different construction from the usual South Sea ships. It isabsolutely necessary that she should be well armed. She should have, sayten or twelve twelve-pound carronades, and two or three long twelves,with brass blunderbusses, and water-tight arm-chests for each top. Heranchors and cables should be of far greater strength than is requiredfor any other species of trade, and, above all, her crew should benumerous and efficient--not less, for such a vessel as I have described,than fifty or sixty able-bodied men. The Jane Guy had a crew ofthirty-five, all able seamen, besides the captain and mate, but shewas not altogether as well armed or otherwise equipped, as a navigatoracquainted with the difficulties and dangers of the trade could havedesired.
Captain Guy was a gentleman of great urbanity of manner, and ofconsiderable experience in the southern traffic, to which he had devoteda great portion of his life. He was deficient, however, in energy, and,consequently, in that spirit of enterprise which is here so absolutelyrequisite. He was part owner of the vessel in which he sailed, and wasinvested with discretionary powers to cruise in the South Seas for anycargo which might come most readily to hand. He had on board, as usualin such voyages, beads, looking-glasses, tinder-works, axes, hatchets,saws, adzes, planes, chisels, gouges, gimlets, files, spokeshaves,rasps, hammers, nails, knives, scissors, razors, needles, thread,crockery-ware, calico, trinkets, and other similar articles.
The schooner sailed from Liverpool on the tenth of July, crossed theTropic of Cancer on the twenty-fifth, in longitude twenty degrees west,and reached Sal, one of the Cape Verd islands, on the twenty-ninth,where she took in salt and other necessaries for the voyage. Onthe third of August, she left the Cape Verds and steered southwest,stretching over toward the coast of Brazil, so as to cross the equatorbetween the meridians of twenty-eight and thirty degrees west longitude.This is the course usually taken by vessels bound from Europe to theCape of Good Hope, or by that route to the East Indies. By proceedingthus they avoid the calms and strong contrary currents which continuallyprevail on the coast of Guinea, while, in the end, it is found to be theshortest track, as westerly winds are never wanting afterward by whichto reach the Cape. It was Captain Guy’s intention to make his firststoppage at Kerguelen’s Land--I hardly know for what reason. On theday we were picked up the schooner was off Cape St. Roque, in longitudethirty-one degrees west; so that, when found, we had drifted probably,from north to south, _not less than five-and-twenty degrees!_
On board the Jane Guy we were treated with all the kindness ourdistressed situation demanded. In about a fortnight, during which timewe continued steering to the southeast, with gentle breezes and fineweather, both Peters and myself recovered entirely from the effects ofour late privation and dreadful sufferings, and we began to rememberwhat had passed rather as a frightful dream from which we had beenhappily awakened, than as events which had taken place in sober andnaked reality. I have since found that this species of partial oblivionis usually brought about by sudden transition, whether from joyto sorrow or from sorrow to joy--the degree of forgetfulness beingproportioned to the degree of difference in the exchange. Thus, in myown case, I now feel it impossible to realize the full extent ofthe misery which I endured during the days spent upon the hulk. Theincidents are remembered, but not the feelings which the incidentselicited at the time of their occurrence. I only know, that when theydid occur, I then thought human nature could sustain nothing more ofagony.
We continued our voyage for some weeks without any incidents ofgreater moment than the occasional meeting with whaling-ships, and morefrequently with the black or right whale, so called in contradistinctionto the spermaceti. These, however, were chiefly found south of thetwenty-fifth parallel. On the sixteenth of September, being in thevicinity of the Cape of Good Hope, the schooner encountered her firstgale of any violence since leaving Liverpool. In this neighborhood, butmore frequently to the south and east of the promontory (we were tothe westward), navigators have often to contend with storms from thenorthward, which rage with great fury. They always bring with them aheavy sea, and one of their most dangerous features is the instantaneouschopping round of the wind, an occurrence almost certain to take placeduring the greatest force of the gale. A perfect hurricane will beblowing at one moment from the northward or northeast, and in the nextnot a breath of wind will be felt in that direction, while fromthe southwest it will come out all at once with a violence almostinconceivable. A bright spot to the southward is the sure forerunner ofthe change, and vessels are thus enabled to take the proper precautions.
It was about six in the morning when the blow came on with a whitesquall, and, as usual, from the northward. By eight it had increasedvery much, and brought down upon us one of the most tremendous seas Ihad then ever beheld. Every thing had been made as snug as possible,but the schooner laboured excessively, and gave evidence of her badqualities as a seaboat, pitching her forecastle under at every plungeand with the greatest difficulty struggling up from one wave before shewas buried in another. Just before sunset the bright spot for which wehad been on the look-out made its appearance in the southwest, and inan hour afterward we perceived the little headsail we carried flappinglistlessly against the mast. In two minutes more, in spite of everypreparation, we were hurled on our beam-ends, as if by magic, and aperfect wilderness of foam made a clear breach over us as we lay. Theblow from the southwest, however, luckily proved to be nothing more thana squall, and we had the good fortune to right the vessel without theloss of a spar. A heavy cross sea gave us great trouble for a few hoursafter this, but toward morning we found ourselves in nearly as goodcondition as before the gale. Captain Guy considered that he had made anescape little less than miraculous.
On the thirteenth of October we came in sight of Prince Edward’s Island,in latitude 46 degrees 53’ S., longitude 37 degrees 46’ E. Two daysafterward we found ourselves near Possession Island, and presentlypassed the islands of Crozet, in latitude 42 degrees 59’ S., longitude48 degrees E. On the eighteenth we made Kerguelen’s or DesolationIsland, in the Southern Indian Ocean, and came to anchor in ChristmasHarbour, having four fathoms of water.
This island, or rather group of islands, bears southeast from the Capeof Good Hope, and is distant therefrom nearly eight hundred leagues. Itwas first discovered in 1772, by the Baron de Kergulen, or Kerguelen,a Frenchman, who, thinking the land to form a portion of an extensivesouthern continent carried home information to that effect, whichproduced much excitement at the time. The government, taking the matterup, sent the baron back in the following year for the purpose ofgiving his new discovery a critical examination, when the mistake wasdiscovered. In 1777, Captain Cook fell in with the same group, and gaveto the principal one the name of Desolation Island, a title whichit certainly well deserves. Upon approaching the land, however, thenavigator might be induced to suppose otherwise, as the sides of mostof the hills, from September to March, are clothed with very brilliantverdure. This deceitful appearance is caused by a small plant resemblingsaxifrage, which is abundant, growing in large patches on a speciesof crumbling moss. Besides this plant there is scarcely a sign ofvegetation on the island, if we except some coarse rank grass near theharbor, some lichen, and a shrub which bears resemblance to a cabbageshooting into seed, and which has a bitter and acrid taste.
The face of the country is hilly, although none of the hills can becalled lofty. Their tops are perpetually covered with snow. There areseveral harbors, of which Christmas Harbour is the most convenient. Itis the first to be met with on the northeast side of the island afterpassing Cape Francois, which forms the northern shore, and, by itspeculiar shape, serves to distinguish the harbour. Its projecting pointterminates in a high rock, through which is a large hole, forming anatural arch. The entrance is in latitude 48 degrees 40’ S., longitude69 degrees 6’ E. Passing in here, good anchorage may be found under theshelter of several small islands, which form a sufficient protectionfrom all easterly winds. Proceeding on eastwardly from this anchorageyou come to Wasp Bay, at the head of the harbour. This is a small basin,completely landlocked, into which you can go with four fathoms, and findanchorage in from ten to three, hard clay bottom. A ship might liehere with her best bower ahead all the year round without risk. To thewestward, at the head of Wasp Bay, is a small stream of excellent water,easily procured.
Some seal of the fur and hair species are still to be found onKerguelen’s Island, and sea elephants abound. The feathered tribes arediscovered in great numbers. Penguins are very plenty, and of thesethere are four different kinds. The royal penguin, so called from itssize and beautiful plumage, is the largest. The upper part of the bodyis usually gray, sometimes of a lilac tint; the under portion of thepurest white imaginable. The head is of a glossy and most brilliantblack, the feet also. The chief beauty of plumage, however, consists intwo broad stripes of a gold color, which pass along from the head to thebreast. The bill is long, and either pink or bright scarlet. These birdswalk erect; with a stately carriage. They carry their heads high withtheir wings drooping like two arms, and, as their tails project fromtheir body in a line with the legs, the resemblance to a human figureis very striking, and would be apt to deceive the spectator at a casualglance or in the gloom of the evening. The royal penguins which we metwith on Kerguelen’s Land were rather larger than a goose. The otherkinds are the macaroni, the jackass, and the rookery penguin. Theseare much smaller, less beautiful in plumage, and different in otherrespects.
Besides the penguin many other birds are here to be found, among whichmay be mentioned sea-hens, blue peterels, teal, ducks, Port Egmont hens,shags, Cape pigeons, the nelly, sea swallows, terns, sea gulls, MotherCarey’s chickens, Mother Carey’s geese, or the great peterel, and,lastly, the albatross.
The great peterel is as large as the common albatross, and iscarnivorous. It is frequently called the break-bones, or osprey peterel.They are not at all shy, and, when properly cooked, are palatable food.In flying they sometimes sail very close to the surface of the water,with the wings expanded, without appearing to move them in the leastdegree, or make any exertion with them whatever.
The albatross is one of the largest and fiercest of the South Sea birds.It is of the gull species, and takes its prey on the wing, never comingon land except for the purpose of breeding. Between this bird and thepenguin the most singular friendship exists. Their nests areconstructed with great uniformity upon a plan concerted between the twospecies--that of the albatross being placed in the centre of a littlesquare formed by the nests of four penguins. Navigators have agreed incalling an assemblage of such encampments a rookery. These rookerieshave been often described, but as my readers may not all have seen thesedescriptions, and as I shall have occasion hereafter to speak of thepenguin and albatross, it will not be amiss to say something here oftheir mode of building and living.
When the season for incubation arrives, the birds assemble in vastnumbers, and for some days appear to be deliberating upon the propercourse to be pursued. At length they proceed to action. A level piece ofground is selected, of suitable extent, usually comprising three or fouracres, and situated as near the sea as possible, being still beyond itsreach. The spot is chosen with reference to its evenness of surface, andthat is preferred which is the least encumbered with stones. Thismatter being arranged, the birds proceed, with one accord, and actuatedapparently by one mind, to trace out, with mathematical accuracy, eithera square or other parallelogram, as may best suit the nature of theground, and of just sufficient size to accommodate easily all the birdsassembled, and no more--in this particular seeming determined uponpreventing the access of future stragglers who have not participated inthe labor of the encampment. One side of the place thus marked out runsparallel with the water’s edge, and is left open for ingress or egress.
Having defined the limits of the rookery, the colony now begin to clearit of every species of rubbish, picking up stone by stone, and carryingthem outside of the lines, and close by them, so as to form a wall onthe three inland sides. Just within this wall a perfectly level andsmooth walk is formed, from six to eight feet wide, and extending aroundthe encampment--thus serving the purpose of a general promenade.
The next process is to partition out the whole area into small squaresexactly equal in size. This is done by forming narrow paths, verysmooth, and crossing each other at right angles throughout the entireextent of the rookery. At each intersection of these paths the nest ofan albatross is constructed, and a penguin’s nest in the centre of eachsquare--thus every penguin is surrounded by four albatrosses, and eachalbatross by a like number of penguins. The penguin’s nest consists of ahole in the earth, very shallow, being only just of sufficient depth tokeep her single egg from rolling. The albatross is somewhat less simplein her arrangements, erecting a hillock about a foot high and two indiameter. This is made of earth, seaweed, and shells. On its summit shebuilds her nest.
The birds take especial care never to leave their nests unoccupied foran instant during the period of incubation, or, indeed, until the youngprogeny are sufficiently strong to take care of themselves. While themale is absent at sea in search of food, the female remains on duty, andit is only upon the return of her partner that she ventures abroad. Theeggs are never left uncovered at all--while one bird leaves the nest theother nestling in by its side. This precaution is rendered necessaryby the thieving propensities prevalent in the rookery, the inhabitantsmaking no scruple to purloin each other’s eggs at every goodopportunity.
Although there are some rookeries in which the penguin and albatross arethe sole population, yet in most of them a variety of oceanic birdsare to be met with, enjoying all the privileges of citizenship, andscattering their nests here and there, wherever they can find room,never interfering, however, with the stations of the larger species.The appearance of such encampments, when seen from a distance, isexceedingly singular. The whole atmosphere just above the settlementis darkened with the immense number of the albatross (mingled with thesmaller tribes) which are continually hovering over it, either going tothe ocean or returning home. At the same time a crowd of penguins areto be observed, some passing to and fro in the narrow alleys, and somemarching with the military strut so peculiar to them, around the generalpromenade ground which encircles the rookery. In short, survey it aswe will, nothing can be more astonishing than the spirit of reflectionevinced by these feathered beings, and nothing surely can be bettercalculated to elicit reflection in every well-regulated human intellect.
On the morning after our arrival in Christmas Harbour the chief mate,Mr. Patterson, took the boats, and (although it was somewhat early inthe season) went in search of seal, leaving the captain and a youngrelation of his on a point of barren land to the westward, they havingsome business, whose nature I could not ascertain, to transact in theinterior of the island. Captain Guy took with him a bottle, in which wasa sealed letter, and made his way from the point on which he was set onshore toward one of the highest peaks in the place. It is probable thathis design was to leave the letter on that height for some vesselwhich he expected to come after him. As soon as we lost sight of himwe proceeded (Peters and myself being in the mate’s boat) on our cruisearound the coast, looking for seal. In this business we were occupiedabout three weeks, examining with great care every nook and corner,not only of Kerguelen’s Land, but of the several small islands in thevicinity. Our labours, however, were not crowned with any importantsuccess. We saw a great many fur seal, but they were exceedingly shy,and with the greatest exertions, we could only procure three hundredand fifty skins in all. Sea elephants were abundant, especially on thewestern coast of the mainland, but of these we killed only twenty, andthis with great difficulty. On the smaller islands we discovered agood many of the hair seal, but did not molest them. We returned to theschooner on the eleventh, where we found Captain Guy and his nephew,who gave a very bad account of the interior, representing it as oneof the most dreary and utterly barren countries in the world. They hadremained two nights on the island, owing to some misunderstanding, onthe part of the second mate, in regard to the sending a jollyboat fromthe schooner to take them off.