Equally typical of the profligate squandering of the intellectual riches

  concealed in the Mexican past was the shared fate of two gifts given to

  Cortez by the Aztec emperor Montezuma. These were circular calendars,

  as big as cartwheels, one of solid silver, and the other of solid gold. Both

  were elaborately engraved with beautiful hieroglyphs which may have

  contained material of great interest. Cortez had them melted down for

  ingots on the spot.9

  More systematically, all over Central America, vast repositories of

  knowledge accumulated since ancient times were painstakingly gathered,

  heaped up and burned by zealous friars. In July 1562, for example, in the

  main square of Mani (just south of modern Merida in Yucatan Province)

  Fr. Diego de Landa burned thousands of Maya codices, story paintings

  and hieroglyphs inscribed on rolled-up deer skins. He also destroyed

  countless ‘idols’ and ‘altars’, all of which he described as ‘works of the

  devil, designed by the evil one to delude the Indians and to prevent them

  from accepting Christianity ...’10 Elsewhere he elaborated on the same

  theme:

  We found great numbers of books [written in the characters of the Indians] but as

  they contained nothing but superstitions and falsehoods of the devil we burned

  them all, which the natives took most grievously, and which gave them great

  pain.11

  Not only the ‘natives’ should have felt this pain but anyone and

  everyone—then and now—who would like to know the truth about the

  past.

  Many other ‘men of God’, some even more ruthlessly efficient than

  7 The Magic and Mysteries of Mexico, pp. 228-9.

  8 Ibid.

  9 Mysteries of the Mexican Pyramids, p. 7.

  10 Yucatan before and after the Conquest, p. 9. See also Mysteries of the Mexican

  Pyramids, p. 20.

  11 Yucatan before and after the Conquest, p. 104.

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  Diego de Landa, participated in Spain’s satanic mission to wipe clear the

  memory banks of Central America. Notable among these was Juan de

  Zumarraga, Bishop of Mexico, who boasted of having destroyed 20,000

  idols and 500 Indian temples. In November 1530 he burned a

  Christianized Aztec aristocrat at the stake for having allegedly reverted to

  worship of the ‘rain-god’ and later, in the market-place at Texcoco, built a

  vast bonfire of astronomical documents, paintings, manuscripts and

  hieroglyphic texts which the conquistadores had forcibly extracted from

  the Aztecs during the previous eleven years.12 As this irreplaceable

  storehouse of knowledge and history went up in flames, a chance to

  shake off at least some of the collective amnesia that clouds our

  understanding was lost to mankind for ever.

  What remains to us of the written records of the ancient peoples of

  Central America? The answer, thanks to the Spanish, is less than twenty

  original codices and scrolls.13

  We know from hearsay that many of the documents which the friars

  reduced to ashes contained ‘records of ages past’.14

  What did those lost records say? what secrets did they hold?

  Gigantic men of deformed stature

  Even while the orgy of book-burning was still going on, some Spaniards

  began to realize that ‘a truly great civilization had once existed in Mexico

  prior to the Aztecs’.15 Oddly enough, one of the first to act on this

  realization was Diego de Landa. He appears to have undergone

  ‘Damascus-road experience’ after staging his auto-da-fé at Mani. In later

  years, determined to save what he could of the ancient wisdom he had

  once played such a large part in destroying, he became an assiduous

  gatherer of the traditions and oral histories of the native peoples of the

  Yucatan.16

  Bernardino de Sahagun, a Franciscan friar, was a chronicler to whom we

  owe much. A great linguist, he is reported to have ‘sought out the most

  learned and often the oldest natives, and asked each to paint in his Aztec

  picture writing as much as he could clearly remember of Aztec history,

  religion and legend’.17 In this way Sahagun was able to accumulate

  detailed information on the anthropology, mythology and social history

  of ancient Mexico, which he later set down in a learned twelve-volume

  work. This was suppressed by the Spanish authorities. Fortunately one

  copy has survived, though it is incomplete.

  12 Mysteries of the Mexican Pyramids, p. 21.

  13 Fair Gods and Stone Faces, p. 34.

  14 Ibid.

  15 Mysteries of the Mexican Pyramids, p. 23.

  16 Yucatan before and after the Conquest.

  17 Mysteries of the Mexican Pyramids, p. 24.

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  Diego de Duran, a conscientious and courageous collector of

  indigenous traditions, was yet another Franciscan who fought to recover

  the lost knowledge of the past. He visited Cholula in AD 1585, a time of

  rapid and catastrophic change. There he interviewed a venerated elder of

  the town, said to have been more than one hundred years old, who told

  him this story about the making of the great ziggurat:

  In the beginning, before the light of the sun had been created, this place, Cholula,

  was in obscurity and darkness; all was a plain, without hill or elevation, encircled

  in every part by water, without tree or created thing. Immediately after the light

  and the sun arose in the east there appeared gigantic men of deformed stature

  who possessed the land. Enamoured of the light and beauty of the sun they

  determined to build a tower so high that its summit should reach the sky. Having

  collected materials for the purpose they found a very adhesive clay and bitumen

  with which they speedily commenced to build the tower ... And having reared it to

  the greatest possible altitude, so that it reached the sky, the Lord of the Heavens,

  enraged, said to the inhabitants of the sky, ‘Have you observed how they of the

  earth have built a high and haughty tower to mount hither, being enamoured of

  the light of the sun and his beauty? Come and confound them, because it is not

  right that they of the earth, living in the flesh, should mingle with us.’ Immediately

  the inhabitants of the sky sallied forth like flashes of lightning; they destroyed the

  edifice and divided and scattered its builders to all parts of the earth.18

  It was this story, almost but not quite the biblical account of the Tower of

  Babel (which was itself a reworking of a far older Mesopotamian

  tradition), that had brought me to Cholula.

  The Central American and Middle Eastern tales were obviously closely

  related. Indeed, the similarities were unmissable, but there were also

  differences far too significant to be ignored. Of course, the similarities

  could be due to unrecorded pre-Colombian contacts between the cultures

  of the Middle East and the New World, but there was one way to explain

  the similarities and the differences in a single theory. Suppose that the

  two versions of the legend had evolved separately for several thousands

  of years, but prior to that both had descended from the sa
me remotely

  ancient ancestor?

  Remnants

  Here’s what the Book of Genesis says about the ‘tower that reached to

  heaven’:

  Throughout the earth men spoke the same language, with the same vocabulary.

  Now as they moved eastwards they found a plain in the land of Shinar, where they

  settled. There they said to one another, ‘Come, let us make bricks and bake them

  in the fire.’ For stone they Used bricks and for mortar they used bitumen. ‘Come,’

  they said, ‘let us build ourselves a town and a tower with its top reaching heaven.

  Let us make a name for ourselves, so that we may not be scattered about the

  18 Diego de Duran, ‘Historia antiqua de la Nueve Espana’, (1585), in Ignatius Donelly,

  Atlantis: The Antediluvian World, p. 200.

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  entire earth.’

  Now Yahewh [the Hebrew God] came down to see the town and the tower that the

  sons of man had built. ‘So they are all a single people with a single language!’ said

  Yahweh. ‘This is but the start of their undertakings! There will be nothing too hard

  for them to do. Come, let us go down and confuse their language on the spot so

  that they can no longer understand one another.’

  Yahweh scattered them thence over the whole face of the earth, and they stopped

  building the tower. It was named Babel, therefore, because there Yahweh confused

  the language of the whole earth. It was from there that Yahweh scattered them

  over the whole face of the earth.19

  The verse which most interested me suggested very clearly that the

  ancient builders of the Tower of Babel had set out to create a lasting

  monument to themselves so that their name would not be forgotten—

  even if their civilization and language were. Was it possible that the same

  considerations could have applied at Cholula?

  Only a handful of monuments in Mexico were thought by archaeologists

  to be more than 2000 years old. Cholula was definitely one of them.

  Indeed no one could say for sure in what distant age its ramparts had

  first begun to be heaped up. For thousands of years before development

  and extension of the site began in earnest around 300 BC, it looked as

  though some other, older structure might have been positioned at the

  spot over which the great ziggurat of Quetzalcoatl now rose.

  There was a precedent for this which further strengthened the

  intriguing possibility that the remnants of a truly ancient civilization

  might still be lying around in Central America waiting to be recognized.

  For example, just south of the university campus of Mexico City, off the

  main road connecting the capital to Cuernavaca, stands a circular step

  pyramid of great complexity (with four galleries and a central staircase). It

  was partially excavated in the 1920s from beneath a mantle of lava.

  Geologists were called to the site to help date the lava, and carried out a

  detailed examination. To everyone’s surprise, they concluded that the

  volcanic eruption which had completely buried three sides of this pyramid

  (and had then gone on to cover about sixty square miles of the

  surrounding territory) must have taken place at least seven thousand

  years ago.20

  This geological evidence seems to have been ignored by historians and

  archaeologists, who do not believe that any civilization capable of

  building a pyramid could have existed in Mexico at such an early date. It

  is worth noting, however, that Byron Cummings, the American

  archaeologist who originally excavated the site for the National

  Geographical Society, was convinced by clearly demarcated stratification

  19 Genesis 11:1-9.

  20 Reported in Maps of the Ancient Sea Kings, p. 199. See also The God-Kings and the

  Titans, p. 54, and Mysteries of the Mexican Pyramids, p. 207.

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  layers above and below the pyramid (laid down both before and after the

  volcanic eruption) that it was ‘the oldest temple yet uncovered on the

  American continent’. He went further than the geologists and stated

  categorically that this temple ‘fell into ruins some 8500 years ago’.21

  Pyramids upon pyramids

  Going inside the Cholula pyramid really did feel like entering a man-made

  mountain. The tunnels (and there were more than six miles of them) were

  not old: they had been left behind by the teams of archaeologists who

  had burrowed here diligently from 1931 until funds ran out in 1966.

  Somehow, these narrow, low-ceilinged corridors had borrowed an

  atmosphere of antiquity from the vast structure all around them. Moist

  and cool, they offered an inviting and secretive darkness.

  Following a ribbon of torchlight we walked deeper inside the pyramid.

  The archaeological excavations had revealed that it was not the product

  of one dynasty (as was thought to have been the case with the pyramids

  at Giza in Egypt), but that it had been built up over a very long period of

  time—two thousand years or so, at a conservative estimate. In other

  words it was a collective project, created by an inter-generational labour

  force drawn from the many different cultures, Olmec, Teotihuacan,

  Toltec, Zapotec, Mixtec, Cholulan and Aztec, that had passed through

  Cholula since the dawn of civilization in Mexico.22

  Though it was not known who had been the first builders here, as far as

  it had been possible to establish the earliest major edifice on the site

  consisted of a tall conical pyramid, shaped like an upturned bucket,

  flattened at the summit where a temple had stood. Much later a second,

  similar structure was imposed on top of this primordial mound, i.e. a

  second inverted bucket of clay, and compacted stone was placed directly

  over the first, raising the temple platform to more than 200 feet above

  the surrounding plain. Thereafter, during the next fifteen hundred years

  or so, an estimated four or five other cultures contributed to the final

  appearance of the monument. This they did by extending its base in

  several stages, but never again by increasing its maximum height. In this

  way, almost as though a master plan were being implemented, the manmade mountain of Cholula gradually attained its characteristic, four-tier

  ziggurat shape. Today, its sides at the base are each almost 1500 feet

  long—about twice the length of the sides of the Great Pyramid at Giza—

  and its total volume has been estimated at a staggering three million

  21 Byron S. Cummings, ‘ Cuicuilco and the Archaic Culture of Mexico’, University of

  Arizona Bulletin, volume IV:8, 15 November 1933.

  22 Mexico, p. 223. See also Kurt Mendelssohn, The Riddle of the Pyramids, Thames &

  Hudson, London, 1986, p. 190.

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  cubic metres.23 This makes it, as one authority succinctly states, ‘the

  largest building ever erected on earth.’24

  Why?

  Why go to all that trouble?

  What sort of name for themselves were the peoples of Central America

  trying to make?

  Walking through the network of corridors and passageways, inhaling
>
  the cool, loamy air, I was uncomfortably conscious of the great weight

  and mass of the pyramid pressing down upon me. It was the largest

  building in the world and it had been placed here in honour of a Central

  American deity of whom almost nothing was known.

  We had the conquistadores and the Catholic Church to thank for leaving

  us so deeply in the dark about the true story of Quetzalcoatl and his

  followers. The smashing and desecration of his ancient temple at Cholula,

  the destruction of idols, altars and calendars, and the great bonfires

  made out of codices, paintings and hieroglyphic scrolls, had succeeded

  almost completely in silencing the voices of the past. But the legends did

  offer us one graphic and powerful piece of imagery: a memory of the

  ‘gigantic men of deformed stature’ who were said to have been the

  original builders.

  23 The Riddle of the Pyramids, p. 190.

  24 Ibid.

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  Chapter 16

  Serpent Sanctuary

  From Cholula we drove east, past the prosperous cities of Puebla, Orizaba

  and Cordoba, towards Veracruz and the Gulf of Mexico. We crossed the

  mist-enshrouded peaks of the Sierra Madre Oriental, where the air was

  thin and cold, and then descended towards sea level on to tropical plains

  overgrown with lush plantations of palms and bananas. We were heading

  into the heartlands of Mexico’s oldest and most mysterious civilization:

  that of the so-called Olmecs, whose name meant ‘rubber people’.

  Dating back to the second millennium BC, the Olmecs had ceased to

  exist fifteen hundred years before the rise of the Aztec empire. The

  Aztecs, however, had preserved haunting traditions concerning them and

  were even responsible for naming them after the rubber-producing area

  of Mexico’s gulf coast where they were believed to have lived.1 This area

  lies between modern Veracruz in the west and Ciudad del Carmen in the

  east. In it the Aztecs found a number of ancient ritual objects produced

  by the Olmecs and for reasons unknown they collected these objects and

  placed them in positions of importance in their own temples.2

  Looking at my map, I could see the blue line of the Coatzecoalcos River

  running into the Gulf of Mexico more or less at the midpoint of the