trying to help me out.
        'Let's all have a gimlet,' I said.
        'I never drink,' Kandisky said. 'I will go to the lorry  and fetch some
   fresh butter  for  lunch.  It is  fresh  from Kandoa,  unsalted. Very  good.
   To-night we  will  have a  special  dish  of Viennese  dessert.  My cook has
   learned to make it very well.'
        He went off  and my wife said: 'You were getting awfully profound. What
   was that about all these women?'
        'What women?'
        'When you were talking about women.'
        'The hell with them,' I said. 'Those are the ones you get involved with
   when you're drunk.'
        'So that's what you do.'
        'No.'
        'I don't get involved with people when I'm drunk.'
        'Come, come,' said Pop. 'We're  none of us ever drunk. My God, that man
   can talk.'
        'He didn't have a chance to talk after B'wana M'Kumba started.'
        'I did have verbal dysentery,' I said.
        'What about his lorry? Can we tow it in without ruining ours?'
        'I think so,' Pop said. 'When ours comes back from Handeni.'
        At  lunch under the green fly of the dining-tent, in the shade of a big
   tree, the wind  blowing,  the  fresh  butter much admired,  Grant's  gazelle
   chops,  mashed  potatoes,  green corn, and  then  mixed  fruit for  dessert,
   Kandisky told us why the East Indians were taking the country over.
        'You see, during the war they sent  the Indian troops to fight here. To
   keep them out of India because they feared another mutiny. They promised the
   Aga Khan that because they fought  in Africa, Indians could  come freely  to
   settle and  for business afterwards. They cannot break that promise and  now
   the  Indians have taken  the  country  over from the Europeans. They live on
   nothing and they send  all  the money  back to  India. When  they have  made
   enough to go home they leave, bringing out their poor relations to take over
   from them and continue to exploit the country.'
        Pop said nothing. He would not argue with a guest at table.
        'It  is the  Aga  Khan,' Kandisky said. 'You are  an American. You know
   nothing of these combinations.'
        'Were you with Von  Lettow?' Pop asked him.  'From the start,' Kandisky
   said. 'Until the end.'
        'He was a great fighter,' Pop said. 'I have great admiration for him.'
        'You fought?' Kandisky asked.
        'Yes.'
        'I do not care for Lettow,' Kandisky said. 'He fought, yes. No one ever
   better. When  we wanted quinine he would order it captured. All supplies the
   same.  But afterwards  he cared nothing  for his men. After the war  I am in
   Germany. I go  to see about  indemnification  for my property. "You  are  an
   Austrian," they say.  "You  must go through  Austrian channels."  So I go to
   Austria.  "But  why  did  you fight?"  they  ask  me. "You  cannot  hold  us
   responsible. Suppose you go to fight in  China. That  is your own affair. We
   cannot do anything for you."
        ' "But I went as a patriot," I say,  very foolishly. "I  fight  where I
   can because I am an Austrian  and I know my duty." "Yes," they say. "That is
   very  beautiful.  But  you  cannot  hold   us  responsible  for  your  noble
   sentiments." So they  passed me from  one to  the other and nothing. Still I
   love the country very much. I have lost everything here but I have more than
   anyone has in  Europe. To  me it is always interesting.  The natives and the
   language. I have many books of notes on  them. Then too,  in reality, I am a
   king here. It is very pleasant. Waking in the morning I  extend one foot and
   the boy places the sock  on it. When I am ready I extend  the other foot and
   he  adjusts the  other  sock. I step from  under  the mosquito  bar  into my
   drawers which are held for me. Don't you think that is very marvellous?'
        'It's marvellous.'
        'When you  come  back another time we  must take  a safari to study the
   natives. And shoot  nothing, or only  to eat. Look, I  will show you a dance
   and sing a song.'
        Crouched, elbows lifting and falling, knees humping, he shuffled around
   the table, singing. Undoubtedly it was very fine.
        'That is only one of  a thousand,' he said. 'Now I must go  for a time.
   You will be sleeping.'
        'There's no hurry. Stay around.'
        'No. Surely you will  be sleeping.  I  also. I  will take the butter to
   keep it cool.'
        'We'll see you at supper,' Pop said.
        'Now you must sleep. Good-bye.'
        After he was gone, Pop said: 'I wouldn't believe all that about the Aga
   Khan, you know.'
        'It sounded pretty good.'
        'Of course he feels  badly,' Pop said. 'Who  wouldn't. Von Lettow was a
   hell of a man.'
        'He's very intelligent,'  my wife said. 'He talks wonderfully about the
   natives. But he's bitter about American women.'
        'So am I,'  said Pop. 'He's a good man. You better  get  some shut-eye.
   You'll need to start about three-thirty.'
        'Have them call me.'
        Molo raised  the back of the tent, propping it with sticks, so the wind
   blew through  and I went to sleep reading, the wind coming in cool and fresh
   under the heated canvas.
        When I woke it was time to go. There were rain clouds in the sky and it
   was very hot. They had packed some tinned fruit, a five-pound piece of roast
   meat, bread, tea, a tea pot,  and some tinned milk in a whisky box with four
   bottles of beer. There was a canvas water bag and a ground cloth to use as a
   tent. M'Cola was taking the big gun out to the car.
        'There's no  hurry about getting back,'  Pop  said. 'We'll look for you
   when we see you.'
        'All right.'
        'We'll send the lorry to haul that sportsman into Handeni. He's sending
   his men ahead walking.'
        'You're sure the lorry can stand it? Don't do it  because he's a friend
   of mine.'
        'Have to get him out. The lorry will be in to-night.'
        'The Memsahib's still  asleep,' I said.  'Maybe she  can get out  for a
   walk and shoot some guineas?'
        'I'm here,'  she said.  'Don't  worry about  us. {Oh},  I hope  you get
   them.'
        'Don't  send  out  to  look for  us  along the  road  until  day  after
   to-morrow,' I said. 'If there's a good chance we'll stay.'
        'Good luck.'
        'Good luck, sweet. Good-bye, Mr. J. P.'
   CHAPTER TWO
        We were out from under the shade of camp and along the sandy river of a
   road, driving into the western sun, the bush thick  to the edge of the sand,
   solid as a thicket, the little hills rising above it, and all along the road
   we passed groups of people making their way to the westward. Some were naked
   except  for a greasy  cloth knotted over one shoulder, and carried  bows and
   sealed  quivers  of  arrows.  Others carried  spears.  The  wealthy  carried
   umbrellas and wore draped  white cloth and  their  women walked behind them,
   with their pots and pans.  Bundles and  loads of  skins were scattered along
   ahead  on  the heads  of  other natives. 
					     					 			 All  were  travelling away from the
   famine. And in  the heat, my  feet out over the side of the car to keep them
   away from the  heat of  the engine,  hat low over the eyes against the  sun,
   watching the road, the  people,  and all clearings in the  bush for game, we
   drove to the westward.
        Once  we saw  three lesser  kudu cows in an open place of  broken bush.
   Grey, big bellied,  long necked, small headed, and with big ears, they moved
   quickly into the woods and were gone. We left  the car and tracked  them but
   there was no bull track.
        A little beyond there a flock  of guineas quick-legged across  the road
   running  steady-headed with the motion of trotters. As I jumped from the car
   and sprinted after  them they rocketed up, their legs  tucked  close beneath
   them,  heavy-bodied, short  wings drumming, cackling, to go  over the  trees
   ahead. I dropped two that thumped hard when they fell and as they lay, wings
   beating, Abdullah cut their heads off so they would be legal eating.  He put
   them in the car where M'Cola sat laughing; his old  man's healthy laugh, his
   making-fun-of-me laugh, his bird-shooting laugh that dated from a streak  of
   raging misses one time that had delighted him. Now when  I killed,  it was a
   joke, as  when we shot a hyena, the funniest joke of all. He laughed  always
   to see the birds tumble and when I missed he roared and shook his head again
   and again.
        'Ask him what the hell he's laughing about?' I asked Pop once.
        'At B'wana,' M'Cola said, and shook his head, 'at the little birds.'
        'He thinks you're funny,' Pop said.
        'Goddam it. I am funny. But the hell with him.'
        'He thinks you're very funny,' Pop said.  'Now the Memsahib and I would
   never laugh.'
        'Shoot them. yourself.'
        'No, you're the bird shot. The self-confessed bird shot,' she said.
        So bird shooting became this marvellous joke. If I killed, the joke was
   on. the birds and M'Cola would shake  his head and laugh  and make his hands
   go round and round  to show  how the  bird turned over in  the air. And if I
   missed, I  was the clown of the piece and he would look at me and shake with
   laughing. Only the hyenas were funnier.
        Highly humorous was the hyena obscenely loping, full belly dragging, at
   daylight on the plain, who, shot  from the stern, skittered on into speed to
   tumble end over end. Mirth provoking was the hyena that stopped out of range
   by an alkali lake to look back and, hit in the chest, went over on his back,
   his  four feet and his full belly in  the air. Nothing could be  more  jolly
   than the hyena coming suddenly wedge-headed and stinking  out of  high grass
   by  a {donga},  hit at ten  yards,  who raced  his tail in three  narrowing,
   scampering circles until he died.
        It was funny to M'Cola to see a hyena shot  at close  range. There  was
   that  comic slap of the  bullet and the hyena's  agitated  surprise  to find
   death inside of him. It was funnier to see a hyena shot at a great distance,
   in the heat shimmer of  the plain, to see him  go over backwards, to see him
   start that frantic circle, to see that electric speed that meant that he was
   racing the  little nickeled death inside him. But the great joke of all, the
   thing  M'Cola  waved  his hands across  his face  about, and turned away and
   shook  his head and  laughed, ashamed even of  the  hyena, the  pinnacle  of
   hyenic humour, was the hyena, the classic hyena, that hit too far back while
   running, would circle madly, snapping and tearing at himself until he pulled
   his  own intestines out, and then  stood there, jerking them  out and eating
   them with relish.
        {'Fisi,'}  M'Cola would say  and shake his head in delighted sorrow  at
   there  being  such   an  awful  beast.  Fisi,  the   hyena,  hermaphroditic,
   self-eating  devourer  of the dead, trailer of  calving  cows, ham-stringer,
   potential  biter-off of your  face  at night  while you slept,  sad  yowler,
   camp-follower,  stinking, foul, with jaws  that  crack  the  bones  the lion
   leaves,  belly  dragging, loping  away  on the brown  plain,  looking  back,
   mongrel dog-smart in the face; whack from the little Mannlicher and then the
   horrid circle  starting. 'Fisi,' M'Cola laughed, ashamed of him, shaking his
   bald black head. 'Fisi. Eats himself. Fisi.'
        The hyena  was a  dirty joke but  bird  shooting was  a clean  joke. My
   whisky was  a  clean joke. There were many variations of that joke. Some  we
   come to later. The Mohammedans and all religions were a joke.  A joke on all
   the people who  had  them.  Charo,  the other  gun bearer,  was  short, very
   serious and  highly  religious.  All  Ramadan  he never swallowed his saliva
   until  sunset  and  when the  sun  was  almost  down I'd  see  him  watching
   nervously. He had a bottle with him of some sort of tea and  he would finger
   it and watch the  sun and I would see M'Cola watching him and pretending not
   to  see.  This  was not outrightly funny  to him. This was something that he
   could not laugh about openly but that he felt  superior  to and  wondered at
   the  silliness of  it. The Mohammedan religion  was very fashionable and all
   the higher social grades  among the  boys were Mohammedans. It was something
   that  gave  caste,  something  to  believe  in,  something  fashionable  and
   god-giving  to  suffer  a  little for  each  year, something  that made  you
   superior to other people, something that gave you more complicated habits of
   eating, something that I understood and M'Cola did not understand,  nor care
   about, and he watched Charo watch for the sun to set with that blank look on
   his  face that it put  on about all things  that he was not a part of. Charo
   was deadly thirsty and truly devout and the sun set very slowly. I looked at
   it,  red  over the trees, nudged him and he grinned. M'Cola  offered me  the
   water  bottle solemnly. I  shook my  head  and Charo  grinned again.  M'Cola
   looked blank. Then the  sun was down and Charo had the bottle tilted up, his
   Adam's  apple rising and falling greedily and M'Cola looking at him and then
   looking away.
        In the  early days, before we became good  friends, he did not trust me
   at all. When anything came  up  he went  into this  blankness. I liked Charo
   much better then. We  understood each other  on the question of religion and
   Charo admired my shooting  and always  shook  hands  and smiled when  we had
   killed  anything particularly good. This was flattering and pleasing. M'Cola
   looked on all this early shooting  as a series of  lucky accidents. We  were
   supposed  to shoot.  We  had not yet shot anything that amounted to anything
   and he was not really my gun bearer. He was Mr. Jackson Phillip's gun bearer
   and he had been loaned to me. I meant nothing to him. He did not like me nor
   dislike me. He was politely contemptuous of Karl. Who he liked was Mama.
        The evening we killed the first  lion it was dark when we came in sight
   of  camp.  The killing  of the lion had been confused and unsatisfactory. It
   was agreed beforehand that P.O.M. should have the first  shot  but since  it
   was the  first lion any of  us had ev 
					     					 			er shot at, and it was very late in the
   day, really  too late to take the lion on, once he was hit we were to make a
   dogfight  of it  and anyone was free to get him. This was a good plan  as it
   was  nearly sundown and if the lion got into cover, wounded, it would be too
   dark to  do  anything about it without  a mess.  I remember  seeing the lion
   looking yellow and heavy-headed and enormous against  a scrubby looking tree
   in a patch of orchard bush and P.O.M. kneeling  to shoot and wanting to tell
   her  to sit down and  make sure of him. Then there was  the  short-barrelled
   explosion  of the Mannlicher and the lion was going to the left on a  run, a
   strange,  heavy-shouldered,  foot-swinging,  cat  run.  I hit him  with  the
   Springfield and he went down and  spun over and  I shot again,  too quickly,
   and threw a cloud of dirt  over him. But there he was, stretched out, on his
   belly, and, with the sun  just over the top of the trees, and the grass very
   green, we walked up  on him like  a posse, or a gang of Black and Tans, guns
   ready and cocked, not knowing whether he was stunned  or dead. When  we were
   close M'Cola threw a stone at him. It hit him in  the flank and from the way
   it  hit  you could tell he was  a dead animal. I was sure P.O.M. had hit him
   but there  was  only one bullet hole, well  back, just  below  the spine and
   ranging forward  to come to  the  surface under  the skin of the chest.  You
   could feel the bullet under the skin  and M'Cola made a slit and cut it out.
   It  was a 220-grain solid bullet from the Springfield and  it had raked him,
   going through lungs and heart.
        I was  so surprised  by the way he  had rolled  over dead from the shot
   after we had been prepared for  a charge, for heroics, and for drama, that I
   felt more  let down  than  pleased.  It was  our first lion and we were very
   ignorant and this was not what  we  had paid to see.  Charo  and M'Cola both
   shook P.O.M.'s hand and then Charo came over and shook hands with me.
        'Good shot, B'wana,' he said in Swahili. {'Piga m'uzuri.'}
        'Did you shoot, Karl?' I asked.
        'No. I was just going to when you shot.'
        'You didn't shoot him, Pop?'
        'No. You'd have  heard it.' He opened the breech  and took  out the two
   big 450 No. 2's.
        'I'm sure I missed him,' P.O.M. said.
        'I was sure you hit him.. I still think you hit him,' I said.
        'Mama hit,' M'Cola said.
        'Where?' Charo asked.
        'Hit,' said M'Cola. 'Hit.'
        'You  rolled  him  over,' Pop said to  me.  'God,  he went over  like a
   rabbit.'
        'I couldn't believe it.'
        'Mama {piga,'} M'Cola said. {''Piga Simba.'}
        As we saw the camp fire in the dark ahead of us, coming in  that night,
   M'Cola suddenly commenced to shout a stream of  high-pitched, rapid, singing
   words in Wakamba ending in the word {'Simb}a{'}. Someone at the camp shouted
   back one word. D 47
        'Mama!' M'Cola shouted. Then another long stream. Then 'Mama! Mama!'
        Through the dark came all the porters, the cook, the skinner, the boys,
   and the headman.
        'Mama!' M'Cola shouted. 'Mama {piga Simba.'}
        The boys came dancing, crowing, and beating time and chanting something
   from  down in their chests that started like a cough  and sounded like {'Hey
   la Mama! Hay la Mama! Hey la Mama!'}
        The  rolling-eyed skinner picked P.O.M. up, the big  cook  and the boys
   held her,  and the others pressing forward to lift  and  if not to  lift  to
   touch and hold, they danced and sang through the dark around the fire and to
   our tent.
        {'Hey la Mama! huh!  huh! huh!  Hay la Mama! huh! huh! huh!'} they sang
   the lion dance  with that deep, lion asthmatic cough in it. Then at the tent
   they put  her  down and everyone, very shyly, shook  hands,  the boys saying
   {'m'uzuri, Memsahib,''} and M'Cola and the  porters all saying  {''m'uzuri},
   Mama' with much feeling in the accenting of the word 'Mama'.
        Afterwards in the chairs in front of the fire, sitting with the drinks,
   Pop said, 'You shot it. M'Cola would kill anyone who said you didn't.'
        'You know,  I  feel as though  I  did shoot it,' P.O.M. said.  'I don't