Page 17 of In the Yellow Sea


  CHAPTER XVI

  PORT ARTHUR--THE MASSACRE IN THE TOWN--RELEASE

  When the Japanese officer had retired so modestly from my outburst ofgratitude, I made up my mind to see all I could of the affairs of thewar, and to reach a place of safety. I soon found that I was prematurein this, because, though an engagement was actually taking place then,I had no chance of seeing it. The afternoon was advancing, and, as amatter of fact, the fight lasted in all only a couple of hoursaltogether--chiefly a matter of artillery.

  During the same evening, and part of the night, the rumbling of theheavy guns was audible. These had been actually dragged by bands ofcoolies across the hill-paths and tracks for two successive days andnights incessantly; and when these fellows, whose pay is infinitesimal,were regaled with little bags of rice and some fish rations, wrappedcarefully in paper, they waited in the most disciplined mannerpatiently, until their turns came. Their dress was not uniform, buthere again, I must say, the Japanese are wonderfully amenable todiscipline in all services.

  I had already made some observations about Port Arthur, andsubsequently I was enabled to supplement them. The defences of theplace were, and are now, doubtless, almost impossible to surmount. Itis the "Gibraltar of the East." Around, and high above the harbour,which has a narrow and difficult entrance, are forts, on the mutualassistance principle of chained defence, on the hills from west to easton the northern shore there are, in all, thirteen forts of heavy guns,including the two near the shore. Again, at the west, isHuang-chin-shan, or Golden Hill, a fort which can sweep its guns in alldirections. "Shan" is "hill," so Chi-huan-shan is Cock's-comb Hill,and I-tzee-shan, Chair Hill. The first three by the west (northernside at Chair Hill) are very important forts.

  If we cross the strip of water at the mouth we reach the Tiger'sTail,--a piece of land, long and narrow, just opposite the West Port(the East Port is the dock-basin, or harbour, as contrasted with theordinary harbour, West Port). On this Tail of the Tiger stand eightmore forts, and all these twenty-two important defences were armed withlarge and quick-firing guns, perhaps more than three hundred in all,with an army behind them of twenty thousand Chinese nominally, but mostlikely many thousands less in fact, perhaps not more than twelvethousand or fifteen thousand effectives--if one may describe theChinese as "effective."

  The Japanese had one hundred cannon, and these were quietly placed inposition during the evening and night of 20th November, on high ground.The forts to be assaulted were those by Chair Hill on the land side(north of harbour), and then those more eastward--Pine Hill, Dragon andCock's-comb Hills. These forts were really the most important from theland side assault, and when we consider that the elevation of the landis great,--from 350 to 1500 feet, though, of course, less a great dealnear the shore,--the difficulties of the assault can be imagined.

  I awoke early, about midnight, and "dressed," which means wrappedmyself up, and stepped out to listen to the tramping of the battalions,which were already taking up positions for the assault. As the morningadvanced, the moon rose up, and shone clearly. The Japanese soldiershad no doubt of results, and the forts were to be attacked in aspecified order, while a counter demonstration was threatened at thefarther side.

  It was impossible to rest, so I staggered to the limits of the camp inthe darkness, the lanterns shining like fireflies as the troopsadvanced. They were all in readiness at two o'clock a.m., and just asdawn was due the artillery opened the attack, and awoke the slumberingChinese in the town. If the men in the forts were asleep, they quicklyarose, and replied in kind from all directions, and the flashing of theguns indicated the fearful fire which was being directed at theJapanese artillery, the camp, and the troops,--the last now just seenclimbing up the hills, or crawling in the grass, to the attack, byravines and slopes and gullies.

  The roar was simply awful! The thunder was incessant. The shells cameblazing across the sky, tore lines in the advancing troops, andploughed the hillsides in all directions. This cannonade continued forquite an hour; it really seemed as if the fearful firing, noise, andthick smoke, would never cease around us. Daylight came, and then theChinese played havoc with the assailants, who fell fast. But theJapanese guns were silencing the Chinese by degrees, and the men creptup to the forts, compelled to halt at times and take breath,--the lastwhich many of them ever drew,--for the fire was fearful, and no commandcould be heard.

  At length the three doomed forts were reached by the rear approach, andthe only mode of capture was by climbing the thirteen feet walls! Thiswas a feat in any case, but when the attempt was made amid a continuousfire, the situation seems impossible. The Japanese, however, succeededby fixing their bayonets into the wall, and climbing by those impromptusteps to the top of the parapet, where they engaged the Chinese hand tohand. Others, again, were hoisted up by means of a rope, which aprivate soldier had let down after climbing up to the top by theinequalities in the masonry of the wall. These acts of heroic braverywere to be seen frequently, and at different points.

  The assailants fell by hundreds at a time, but as soon as the survivorsgained the advantage, and reached the platforms, the Chinese fledhelter-skelter out of the forts, down the hills, in the direction ofthe sea, and the Japanese dashed after them, firing, or bayoneting thestragglers. Here were mandarins, officers, and soldiers, armed andunarmed, flying for dear life, and in numerous instances losing that.

  As soon as the Chinese had evacuated the defences on the western side Iessayed to climb up, but was forced to pause, not only from physicalweakness, but because of mental disturbance. Already the Red Cross wasin evidence tending and succouring the wounded and dying, anddespatching the former to Kinchow, and subsequently to the Port ArthurHospital. The Chinese, who did not understand, or certainly did notpractise this humanity, frequently fired at the devoted bands, who thussuffered for their devotion.

  As I advanced I rendered some assistance, I am pleased to think, butthe numbers requiring aid were beyond expectation. The Japanesesuffered greatly. Tens and dozens of dead bodies lay in groups in manyplaces, and this slaughter was all around one. When the forts werestormed the Chinese became the victims and paid heavily for theJapanese dead. A terrible revenge was taken, and when the Pine Treefort blew up there was a loud shout of victory. Thenceforth theinvaders had all their own way.

  And such a way! Midday had struck, as the phrase is, when the firstforts were taken--Inland, and then the remaining forces came on toreduce the coast line of forts and redoubts, including the large GoldenHill fort already named, which by its cannon turning in all directionshad caused much loss in the distant Japanese ranks. Preparations weremade to storm this place late in the afternoon. The Chinese were stillresisting under all possible cover in rifle-pits and trenches andredoubts, but all the time the Japanese were encircling them and thetown--their usual method. I noticed that at sea the fleet circledround the Chinese ships, and now on land the soldiers came up on threesides.

  Following the troops I watched them from a distant height forming a_cordon_ around the devoted town, which contains about a thousandhouses built Chinese fashion (usually in one storey), two theatres,temples, hotels, and banks, besides the extensive docks fitted with allmodern appliances, torpedo factory, a railway, cranes, workshops, andbasins for ships and boats. The place is well supplied with water, andlater I witnessed a curious scene in those docks.

  When I had struggled as near as I deemed prudent, armed with a Japaneserifle, cartridges, and a cap, I fancied I could hear a band playing. Amusical welcome from the Chinese was perhaps the most curious of themany curious and contradictory things in China, but it was certainly amilitary band in the town, while the brigade beyond was storming theforts. I made inquiry as well as I could, and ascertained that theJapanese had already occupied the town, and the band was playing themin with their National Anthem, which I recognised as having alreadyheard on board ship in the hour of victory.

  The day was now coming to a close. Golden Hill remained in Chinesehands
, and the fighting was for a while suspended. Still Port Arthurwas in possession of the Japanese, and the remaining fort when attackednext morning was found empty. The garrison had deserted it in thenight.

  That night of the 21st November 1894 will be remembered by all who liveto think of it. Why? you may ask. Simply because the Chinese wereslain in the most savage and unrelenting way in the town. On the hilla chill and piercing wind rose that night, and the sufferings of thewounded must have been terrible. I made my way at dusk, under shelter,behind the hill I had scrambled up before, and found the Japanese lyingon their faces still, thickly. The Chinese were lying anyhow on thathill, and on the other slope; half-clothed, nearly always unarmed, andseldom in any "uniform" dress.

  THE CHINESE WERE LYING ANYHOW]

  These are common instances which indicate the temperaments and courageof the two nations. The Japanese shot in the forehead or chest falls_forward_ and dies. The Chinese I saw were fugitives who had cast awaytheir weapons and clothing the more easily to escape and to be mistakenfor civilians. I must add that the Japanese wounded never seemed tocomplain or cry out. Their fortitude under the most deplorableconditions, amid terrible injuries and wounds, was Spartan-like--heroic.

  That cold night, for which all were unprepared, found those on thehills badly off, though wearied to death they lay, some besidewatch-fires some in the darkness, dead asleep; while the soldiers inthe waking town conducted themselves like absolute fiends. As alreadystated, the soldiers were exasperated by the brutality of the Chinese,but that was scarce a reason for the wholesale and deliberate murder ofcivilians, women, and children in cold blood.

  Next morning, under the guidance of a soldier and the interpreter, Iessayed to reach the town. We descended the hill, my companionslooking triumphantly upon the devastation and the evidences of death,which, though now familiar to me, were none the less terrible.

  The town was reached, and we entered it near the dock where is areservoir of water, a kind of lake, one may say, at the foot of thesloping ground. There even my callous companions halted. The pool wasfull of dead bodies floating in all kinds of attitudes, head downwards,or extended on the back or face bleeding or bloodless, many women, andeven young children. There they lay, some floating, as I have said,some pressed down by others, some lying half in and half out of thebloodstained water, all killed by violence, by the rifle-shot orbayonet, and hacked as savages would not have thought of doing.

  And this was the act of the merciful Japanese! I turned sick and faintwith horror, rushed away into the town to escape from this most fearfulscene. Presently I was compelled to seat myself in sheer illness, mycompanions were also ashamed I believe.

  After a while I rose and made my way through the streets, but hereagain were horrors piled up even if possible more awful than the firstexperience. Houses, shops, inns were pillaged, fired, plundered! Menand women dead--mutilated--every possible shame had been inflicted, andeven then, in daylight, the Japanese soldiers were looting and killingall in their way, binding up bundles of plunder, or chasing anunfortunate Chinaman to death amid the laughter of his fellows.Fortunately I was properly protected, else my doom had been sealed, forthe dead lay so thickly in the streets and passages, that one had totread carefully for fear of stepping upon a body; and if a Chinese wasdiscovered seeking his dead friend, relative, wife, or child, the firstJapanese butcher would kill him, and then slash him into slices withhis sword.

  For true barbarity the inflamed Japanese countenance in a passion ofkilling is the most repulsive. What the night had witnessed I tremblenow to think. Of what we witnessed of the awful results it isimpossible even to do more than name, the details are quite unfit todescribe. The dismemberment of the bodies even of children and womenwill always remain a stain upon the Japanese, on the soldiers forexecuting such awful rapine and murder, on the officers for notstopping such scenes of bestial violence.

  Amid such scenes in the docks next day the field-marshal presided at agrand luncheon, where hundreds of officers attended, and numerousnewspaper correspondents assisted, and drank the health of the Emperorof Japan. Whom of those hundreds who stood at the long tables spreadin the dockyard, and feasted upon potted and tinned food, thought ofthe massacred Chinese? Even then, perhaps, dark and silent murder wasbeing done while the bands played stirring airs, and officerscongratulated each other upon their own successes while the curses ofthe dying natives were heaped upon the savage soldiery.

  "Find me a way from this fearful place," I begged at last, when I hadvainly sought escape by boat. "Is there no junk, no vessel, in the baywhich will shelter me and carry me to Chefoo?"

  My despairing appeal was carried to the ears of the officer who hadalready befriended me. He came towards the ruined inn, where I wasresting, and inquired what I wanted.

  "Means to leave this horrible place," I said briefly. "The _Naniwa_ isin the harbour. Cannot you manage to communicate with your brother?He may assist me to reach the opposite shore."

  "Is that all? Why, there are several British vessels in the gulf." Hethen quickly said a few words to my companions in their own tongue, andleft me. I am glad to think that he and some other officers had beenstaying the massacre of the night. "I will follow you," he added."Wait beyond."

  As we made our way through the narrow streets westward to the Port, thenatural harbour, the sights were beyond description. Even there deadlay in the streets and shops, which, still hung with the Chinese signsand open as in a fair-ground, were wrecked and dabbled with blood.Fortunately the weather was cold, and when we reached the harbour, orWest Port, the soldiers were dragging dead bodies from the water, wherethey lay thickly.[1] Men, women, and children had been hunted down andslain in the water. The few junks on shore were also filled with deadbodies of fugitives and crews.

  [1] Should any reader need evidence of these days let him see theillustrated papers of the time.

  My interpreter shook his head. He could do nothing. Remembering hisformer conduct, I began to fear that he had some sinister object in hismind's eye. I asked him what I should do, and then as he paused in hisreply, I demanded why he had robbed me before. My fears were thenallayed, because I saw the Japanese officer, Tomi's brother,approaching. But the interpreter remained perfectly calm to allappearance. He merely deprecated any reference to such an unpleasantincident, by a shrug of the shoulders, and an appealing movement of hishands.

  "Then you intended to destroy me!" I exclaimed. "What do you proposenow? May I ask you, sir, to question this man about his conduct whilein my society, when, as I have told you, I was robbed by him and leftalone to find my way across the isthmus."

  The interpreter's nimble tongue was at a loss for once. He could notadvance any excuse.

  "Did this man rob you?" asked the officer. "Speak, sir."

  "Yes," I replied. "Let him deny it if he can."

  The Japanese officer turned to the interpreter and said something tohim, motioning to the soldier who had accompanied me to advance.

  The traitor fell upon his knees, Chinese fashion, but what he said Icould not understand. He produced the revolver, however, and somepapers.

  "He declares he was instructed to take these from you, for fear of yoursafety if they were found upon you by the natives. Is that so?"

  "Not at all. I was given the pistol and money by your brother for myprotection. He had already defended me, and the captain of the shipurged my departure as a scout, knowing some Chinese. They hoped Iwould remain with the army, reach Port Arthur, and so get away."

  "Then you _were_ suspected on board?" he asked sharply.

  "Yes, because I was sailing in the Chinese transport, I think. Yourhonourable brother assisted me, and intended to send me to the Britishfleet."

  "He had no authority to do so. But I am sure the captain would havelanded you at Chemulpo had you desired it."

  "I did not want to be landed. I am a sailor, and wished to continue onboard until I could be sent to Shanghai or Chefo
o."

  "It appears to me now that you did wrong. You had better have landedand made your way, with the assistance of your consul, to China. Butmatters seem also to have been against you. As for this man'sstatement respecting the robbery, I do not believe it. He has traducedmy brother."

  Then followed a few sentences in the Japanese language, which soundedparticularly harsh. I saw the man seized by the soldier, and criedout. The officer turned to me inquiringly.

  "What do you intend?" I asked. "What punishment?"

  "I shall strike off his thievish hand."

  "Oh no!" I pleaded. "There has been slaughter and hacking enough! Lethim go free!"

  "He has lied concerning my brother. He deserves to _die_! I shallonly prevent his robbing in future. Take him, and keep him in guard."

  The soldier tied the man's hands together with his belt, and drove himaway before him, leaving me with the officer. My appeal had been invain. As a fact, I had no energy to continue the question, because mybodily strength was waning fast. The excitement which had so farsustained me was already disappearing, and the disgust which hadreplaced it did not tend to keep me up.

  The Japanese officer perceived this, and beckoned me to accompany him.I saw he was anxiously looking at my pallid face. What would havebecome of me had he not come to my rescue I did not venture to think.I followed him closely, and retraced my bloodstained steps through thelately prosperous-looking streets, then well furnished with shops, nowa terrible line of dismantled houses; goods lying upon the ground amidthe dead, and accentuating the desolation.

  My conductor took me to an inn, or hotel, in which resided,temporarily, several Japanese. These gentlemen, I ascertained, werejournalists and artists employed by the newspapers and others, for theJapanese people took the greatest interest in the struggle with China.Two of these men spoke English quite sufficiently for conversationalpurposes, and they made me welcome by request of the officer.

  "When opportunity occurs," he said, "we will send you home. Perhaps wemay despatch you to one of your men-of-war vessels. Farewell!"

  I had only time to thank him for the idea of such a happy despatch,when I felt faint and sick. My new friends immediately removed me toan upper chamber,--a rather unusual thing in China,--and laid me uponthe couch or bench which was then being warmed by the hot air from thefire or "furnace." Handing me a thick counterpane, which theincreasing cold made acceptable, my friend left me to recovermyself--my strength and my self-possession.

  It was long before I was able to rise. The day passed. Food wasrepugnant to me. My brain reproduced all the horrors I had witnessed,and I shuddered as with ague. The night was still more dreadful, as mysolitude was invaded by three of the company, and I was thankful whenmorning again dawned and left me alone, if listless and ailing.

  I must pass rapidly on, for nothing occurred to alarm me. I lay quiet,eating and sleeping and thinking. My new companions amused me bytelling me their adventures, and listening to mine. They taught mesome of their language, and I imparted to them some English. Theweather grew worse, frost and snow set in, with bitter winds; and Ilearned that the headquarters of the army had been fixed at Kinchow,till the second army--Port Arthur force--made northward for Kai-ping.The Japanese fleet was in Talien Bay. Winter had set in in earnest,and transport was very difficult.

  Christmas passed. Such a Christmas it was, too. I felt like the boywho had been left at school while all the other fellows went home forthe holidays. Most of my companions had scattered, but two stayed, onefor some Government business, and the other awaiting orders as to thedisposal of the quantities of plunder and stores, before leaving tojoin the fleet. We conversed in a mixture of Japanese and English, adialect which did more to keep up my spirits than anything saverelease, because we laughed at each other's mistakes all day. Theweather became very cold, and as the year came to an end I began tofeel "hipped," and really uneasy. But the New Year caused a change inthe troops' quarters, and indirectly in mine, for when the second armyadvanced, or rather a portion of it advanced, to the north, to join theYalu army, I was very agreeably surprised by a visit from the officer Iknew as Tomi's brother, and, best of all, he was accompanied by Tomihimself. This visit was paid in the month of January 1895, when I wasfeeling extremely "low."

  My astonishment was great as my pleasure at the meeting, and in mydelight, being also conceited about my new attainments, I exclaimed in"dog" Japanese--

  "Tenno Heika Banzai! Nippon Yuesen Kabushiki Kaisha! So glad to seeyou again!"

  Somewhat to my astonishment the two officers touched their caps, and,looking at each other, burst into a hearty peal of laughter. I stared.What had I said? I felt guilty and nervous, then annoyed at thelaughter.

  "Well, gentlemen, what's the joke?" I said. "Have I in any wayoffended you? Pray accept my excuses--in English. I assure you"--

  "Please excuse _us_," said the naval officer, seizing my hand. "We aredelighted to learn that you have mastered Japanese as well as Chineseand French. Thank you for Emperor _and Company_."

  "I think you do not quite understand," remarked my military friend."Do you know what you _did_ say?"

  "Yes--at least I think so. I intended to cheer your Emperor and you,and to wish success to the Japanese united arms. I suspect I made alittle mistake."

  "No, no!" cried the young lieutenant Tomi. "It was beautiful!Splendid! It sounded so well, too. Didn't it?" he asked, turning tohis brother.

  "Yes; and so exactly to the point," added the captain, laughing again."You are already an interpreter, Mr. Julius."

  I felt rather "at sea" at this renewal of the merriment, but theofficers quickly subdued their laughter, though it occasionally burstout in spasms while they alternately announced their business.

  "We have another mission for you, Julius," said the younger. "Apleasant little trip to an English man-of-war perhaps."

  I leaped to my feet in delight. "Really?" I said. "You mean that?"

  "Oh yes, certainly. _We_ understand English," he said, laughing.

  I blushed, and felt annoyed with Tomi. But I dare not show this.

  "When you and your brother have _quite_ finished laughing"--I began.

  But this attempt at dignity set them off again, and though reallyangry, I was compelled to join them. The whole business seemed soridiculous.

  "Pray pardon us," gasped the elder officer. "This is reallybusiness--from the admiral."

  "The admiral!" I exclaimed. "Does he know anything about me?'

  "Of course, certainly; and when you talk to him in _Japanese_"--

  This caused another explosion, and I made condemnatory remarksconcerning the native smile.

  "Well," I asked coldly, "any further _joke_?"

  "This is no joke, indeed," said the sailor. "The Admiral Ito wants aletter conveyed to the _Severn_--what you call it--cruiser, forconveyance to Admiral Ting, the Chinese naval commander. The littledifficulty arose about the messenger being a Japanese, and then Ireminded my captain that you were in Port Arthur, and trustworthy. Mybrother had already told me so much. The immediate result has been ourpresence here, and our request to bring you to the admiral. Will youcome? we will fit you out again."

  "And I am to join the _Severn_?"

  "Perhaps. At anyrate if you carry the letter, and bring back an answeror not, you can act as an ambassador."

  "With pleasure," I cried, delighted to think I was again to be restoredto British protection, and to see English faces. "I will accompany youat once."

  I made some few--very few--changes in my appearance, which was a bitremarkable for an English youth, or "man." My stubbly hair, my thickwadded costume,--_a la Chinois_,--for your Chinaman pads his garmentsuntil his bulk, in winter, vies with Mr. Daniel Lambert, of piousmemory. Thus, something like a clean scarecrow, crossed with the FatBoy in _Pickwick_, I accompanied my deliverers.

  As we quitted my quarters, I said as pleasantly as possible--

  "Tell me the mistake I
made when you came in?"

  They smiled at the recollection, and the sailor-boy said, nodding atme--

  "It was all right, really. You only said, Hurrah for the Emperor! and"(here he choked)--"and called out for the '_Japan Mail Steam Company_.'That's all."

  I laughed aloud at the connection. What I intended to say I have nowno idea, and my Japanese friends never enlightened me.

  This was my last attempt at Asiatic languages--on service.