FitzRoy himself stood on the poop, flanked by his officers in their peaked caps, dark coats and white trousers, until Skyring had finished. Then he stepped forward. He placed his hands on either side of the compass housing as if it were a lectern and spoke in a clear, firm voice. ‘My name is Robert FitzRoy. I am directed by my lords commissioners of the Admiralty to take charge of this vessel. My orders are to complete the survey of the South American coast begun by Captain Stokes, from Cape St Antonio in the east to Chiloé Island in the west, under the direction of Captain King in the Adventure. Lieutenant Skyring is to accompany us in the Adelaide. We shall make sail in approximately two weeks, after the ship has been hove down and repaired. Most of you, I know, will not relish so hasty a return to the south, but we may consider ourselves fortunate in some respects. The service is decreasing in size every day, as the war becomes no more than a memory. Ships are being broken up, commissions are not being renewed. The ports and taverns of England are packed with men who clamour for a berth. I know - I have been home recently. We are the lucky ones. And we have an opportunity not just to sail one of His Majesty’s ships, but to do so for the benefit of future generations. To survey unexplored territory, to map it and to name it, is to contribute to history. This is the chance offered us today.
‘I have learned from Captain King and Lieutenant Skyring of the hardships borne on your first voyage, of the inclement conditions, the sickness and the lack of food. The weather that we encounter will, of course, be a matter for our maker. But I give you my word, as God is my witness, that the health of every man on board, and the sufficiency of victuals and provisions, shall be my prime concern.
‘There shall — as a consequence — be new regulations. For the avoidance of ship fever, every man is to wash himself thoroughly a minimum of once a week. All clothing is to be boiled every two weeks. All decks are to be scrubbed with vinegar every two weeks.
‘For the avoidance of scurvy, there will be an antiscorbutic diet, which will be compulsory for all those on board. No man is to go more than three days without fresh food caught locally. Hard tack, salt meat and canisters of preserved food are not sufficient. Every man is to take a daily dose of lemon juice. Lime juice is not sufficient. I shall also be asking Mr Bynoe to supply extra rations of pickles, dried fruit, vinegar and wintersbark. The daily wine ration is to remain at one pint, while supplies can be maintained. But for the avoidance of drunkenness, the daily rum ration is to be reduced from half a pint to a quarter of a pint.’
FitzRoy paused to let this sink in. The shocked gasp at the prospect of weakened grog was audible across the deck.
‘No man under the age of sixteen is to receive a rum ration.’
Another pause, punctuated this time by a smaller, higher-pitched gasp.
‘There will be no gambling. There will be no women in port. Before divine service on Sundays, all officers and men who can read and write, and I include myself in this, will be expected to contribute to the education of those who cannot. This will be a modern ship, run along modern lines. But the punishment for anyone who disobeys any of the new regulations, or any order for that matter, will be of the most old-fashioned sort. In particular, anyone who by his laxity endangers the ship, or the life of anyone aboard, will be flogged, as Able Seaman Gilly has discovered.
‘The refit will make the next two weeks a busy time for all of us. Nonetheless I shall ensure that every man is granted a period of shore leave. I trust that you will enjoy yourselves ashore. I trust also that you are all familiar with the penalty for desertion.
‘When you return to the ship, your work will begin in earnest. I intend to make the Beagle the best-drilled, best-handled vessel on the ocean. My object is that every one of her people shall be proud of her. That is my task, and yours too. Thank you for your time. You may go about your business.’
The crew milled about for a few seconds, murmuring among themselves, then disappeared back into the myriad hatchways and crevices of the ship. FitzRoy released his grip on the compass housing.
‘Well done sir,’ breathed Sulivan.
‘At least they didn’t come charging up the quarter-deck waving cutlasses and crying, “Liberty”,’ said Skyring. ‘Now, if you will permit me, Commander, I’ll go and gather my effects. The very best of luck to you. They’re not the best crew that ever sailed the ocean, but they’re not the worst either. There is potential in them. I am sure you will unlock it.’
‘You oblige me with your kindness,’ smiled FitzRoy politely, and the two men shook hands once more.
There remained only the matter of Able Seaman Gilly. As was normal custom, the ship’s company reassembled before the gangway at six bells to witness the flogging. Gilly was stripped of his rough canvas jacket and tied down. It was clear from the scars that laced his back that he had aroused the ire of Captain Stokes - and, no doubt, various predecessors - on numerous occasions. Sorrell, eager to impress, laid it on thick from the first blow, but Gilly clamped his teeth fast together, determined not to make a sound.
As the second blow fell, FitzRoy’s gaze shifted from the errant sailor towards the shore. In the distance, proceeding slowly away from the ship as it lifted and fell on a freshening breeze, he could just make out the jolly-boat, and in it, Bennet’s distinctive flaxen mop, almost hidden behind the wide backs of the two plump Brazilian women seated side by side. He turned back to observe the deck again, and the sea of watching faces under his command; only to become aware, uncomfortably, that every man jack of them was staring not at the flogging, but directly at him.
Chapter Three
Maldonado Bay, Uruguay, 30 January 1829
It was a glorious evening. A damp tropical breeze behind the Beagle nudged her softly towards the south-west. She slid silently into the mighty estuary of the river Plate, where the fifty-mile-wide sweep of warm brown river water gushes into the dark, welcoming depths of the Atlantic. A sliver of black-and-white on a shining sea, she navigated the divide between river and ocean, milky tea to her right side, port wine to her left. Giant columns of cloud marched across the landward horizon, golden shafts of sunlight angling between them, as if someone had lit a fire in the temple of heaven.
Robert FitzRoy stood by the wheel, Lieutenant Kempe a mute presence at his shoulder, and allowed his senses to bathe in the grandeur of the scene. In the distance ahead he could see the sharply curved promontory of Maldonado Island, the only interruption in the otherwise level plane of the horizon, jabbing up like a thorn from the flat stem of a rose; and in the shelter of Maldonado Bay beyond, he could just make out the spars of the Adventure at anchor. The glimpse of stitched canvas and carved wood promised friendly faces and welcome reunions for the Beagle’s crew after a month alone at sea. FitzRoy’s orders were to rendezvous with King in the Adventure, Skyring in the Adelaide and Admiral Otway in the Ganges at Maldonado before the day was out. The Beagle was only just on schedule, but she had been handling increasingly well for such an ungainly little vessel, and would arrive before dusk. He could take justifiable pride in the changes he had wrought during the preceding weeks.
They had hove her down off Botafogo beach, to the south of Rio de Janeiro, the crew camped along the shore in tents. Naturally enough it was Sulivan who had volunteered to inspect the damage to her false keel, who had dived again and again into the shimmering water. Finally he had been hauled back aboard exhausted, the skin on his back lacerated by the jagged copper below. FitzRoy had been forced to take over the task himself, to prevent his shattered subordinate flinging himself back into the sea. The youngster had paid for his exertions, though, with a bout of dysentery, and now lay weak in a sick-bay cot with a high fever and a chamber pot for company.
They had hauled the Beagle out of the water using ropes, her fat belly ripped and encrusted with barnacles, gasping and glistening like a landed whale as the seawater streamed off her in a hundred cascades. They had laid her down by hand on a platform constructed from four large market-boats. They had re-payed the cra
cked pitch in her seams and sealed it with hot irons; they had cleaned out her bilges, oiled her blocks, blacked her meagre armaments and painted the gun-carriages; they had polished her brightwork to a mirror finish with brick dust. And then she had been lowered snugly into the water again, to be welcomed back by the warm waves lapping around her hull.
Between Rio de Janeiro and the river Plate he had drilled the men relentlessly: reefing and furling sail in all weathers, sending down sails and yards for imaginary repairs, or waking the crew in the middle of the night to fix non-existent leaks. They had performed gun drill at all hours, summoned to action stations without warning by the drums pounding out the rhythm of ‘Heart of Oak’. Piped orders were practised again and again. Orders that had needed to be yelled through the speaking trumpet at first were now kept to a minimum. The boatswain had only to bark, ‘Make sail!’ and the bare trees of the Beagle’s masts would bloom white within minutes. She would always be an ungainly little brig, her decks awash even in the lightest seas; she would never dance adroitly to the tune of her captain like one of the elegant ships-of-the-line. But she was at last assuming a sturdy reliability that did her company credit. FitzRoy was beginning to feel proud of his sailing-spoon.
‘It begins to look very dirty to leeward, sir.’ Lieutenant Kempe was one of those perverse customers whose smile — half grin, half grimace - carried a hint of satisfaction at unfortunate developments. But he was unquestionably correct. The giant pillars of cloud on the western horizon were filling and darkening, and appeared to be increasing in size - which did not make sense, as the warm, gentle breeze that half filled the Beagle’s sails was blowing from the north-east.
‘Barometer reading?’
‘Steady sir, 30.20. That’s up from 30.10 half an hour ago.’
Everything was as it should be. The barometer said so. But tiny alarm bells rang in FitzRoy’s mind. Most of the crew didn’t hold with barometers - he’d had a hard job, in fact, persuading his officers that such gadgets had any part to play in modern seamanship — preferring their captain to handle the ship by instinct. A good captain, of course, was capable of marrying science and nature in his deliberations. The barometer may indeed have been adamant that nothing was wrong, and the nor’-easterly behind them may have contained barely enough vigour to ruffle the milky sheen of the estuary, but this, he was keenly aware, was no ordinary estuary. More than twice as wide as the English Channel at Dover, the river Plate was notorious for its sudden pampero storms. None of the crew had ever seen one, but they had heard the stories. Their instincts tensed like violin strings.
A long dark roll of cloud had curled into being on the horizon, filling the spaces between the vapour columns and blotting out the setting sun. Should they cut and run for the shore, he wondered? Or should they drive ahead to the sanctuary of Maldonado Bay? The former would involve disobeying orders. The latter risked being caught in the open, if this was indeed a pampero.
‘Barometer reading?’
‘Steady sir, 30.20.’
This simply didn’t make sense. If a storm was indeed in the offing, the barometer should have been sharing his alarm. He resolved to stay on course for Maldonado.
‘No, wait a minute, sir. The quicksilver is dipping. 30.10 sir ... it’s dipping fast sir. It’s dipping really fast sir. 30 dead sir. It’s dipping really fast sir.’
Even as the master relayed the bad news, the nor’-easterly wind behind them dropped away to nothing. The sails fell slack against the masts. Only the creaking of the rigging betrayed the Beagle’s presence in a world of silence. There was a moment of hush on deck, as officers and crew stood in awe and watched the cloud columns grow, thousands of feet high now, grotesque black billows at the core of each pillar like the smoke from a cannonade.
FitzRoy’s ribcage constricted. It’s so easy to know what action to take when you are only the subordinate. I have to take charge. Now.
‘Barometer reading 29.90 sir. The temperature’s dropping too sir.’
‘Take her into the shore, Mr Murray. Any shelter you can find.’
Murray made a quick calculation. ‘Lobos Island is only a few miles off the coast, sir, but there’s no breeze.’
‘I believe we shall have a sufficiency of wind before very long, Mr Murray.’
‘Aye aye sir.’
The master relayed the instructions to the helmsman. ‘Larboard — I mean, port - a hundred and thirty-five degrees.’
The cadaverous half-smile continued to divide Lieutenant Kempe’s bony features. The crew were still learning to use the word ‘port’ instead of ‘larboard’, at FitzRoy’s insistence: ‘larboard’ could sound uncommonly like ‘starboard’ in the middle of a storm.
The helmsman swung the wheel down smoothly with his right hand, and the ship inched slowly to starboard, reluctantly answering the call of her rudder.
‘Double-reefed topsails, Mr Sorrell, and double-reefed foresail. Batten the hatches and put the galley fires out.’
The boatswain piped the orders to the crew, and within seconds the rigging swarmed with figures: younger, lighter hands in the tops and out on the yard-arms, burlier sailors in the centre, wrestling with the heavier, more uncooperative shrouds of canvas.
A few seconds, and the adjustments were made. Now all they could do was wait like sitting ducks, and hope that the storm, when it came, would fill their reduced sails sufficiently to drive them towards the darkening shore.
‘Barometer reading 29 dead sir.’
‘That’s impossible,’ breathed FitzRoy. He had never known the quicksilver fall so far so fast. Swiftly, he crossed the deck to check for himself. There was no mistake. You could actually see it falling with the naked eye.
‘Hold on to your hats,’ murmured little King, somewhat unnecessarily. They were clearly in for the blow of their lives. Hands closed silently around ropes, rails and brass fittings — anything that looked securely screwed down.
‘Look sir,’ said Bennet, ruddy-faced under his flaxen mop. He’d come up on deck as the ship had changed course, and was now leaning over the port rail and squinting upriver to the west. All eyes followed the direction of his gaze. Before the rolling black cloud lay a lower bank of what appeared to be white dust, skimming across the silken brown waters towards them at incredible speed.
‘What is it? A sandstorm?’
FitzRoy reached for his spyglass. Even at closer quarters, the white band across the horizon was difficult to make out. ‘Great heavens ... I think it may be ... insects.’
As he breathed the last word, the vanguard was upon them. Butterflies, moths, dragonflies and beetles arrived by the thousands, a charging, panic-stricken battalion, driven helplessly by the surging winds at their back. They flew into blinking eyes and spluttering mouths, snagging in hair and ears, taking refuge up nostrils and down necks. They clung to the rigging and turned the masts white. The sails disappeared beneath a seething mass of tiny legs and wings.
Even as the crew fought to clear their faces of these unwanted guests, the sea did it for them. Thick spume arrived in a volley, borne on a wall of wind that smacked into the port side of the Beagle with a shudder. Suddenly the sails filled to bursting, the wind squealed through the rigging, and the little brig darted forward as if released from a trap, keeling violently to starboard as she did so. The spume thickened into dense white streaks of flying water, the ocean itself shredded and torn as the elements launched their frenzied attack, raking the ship’s side like grapeshot. The sound of the wind raised itself into an indignant shriek, and then, beneath it, came something FitzRoy had never heard before: a low moan like a cathedral organ. How appropriate, he thought - for this was indeed shaping up to be a storm of Old Testament proportions.
Straining under the press of sail, and foaming in her course, the little brig drove crazily forward, her masts bent like coach whips.
‘Another hand to the wheel!’ shouted FitzRoy. No one heard him, but no one needed to: already two or three men were moving forward to assi
st the helmsman, who grappled with the wheel as it bucked first to port and then to starboard in his grasp. Like a burst of artillery fire, the fore staysail, the thick white triangle of sturdy English canvas that led the ship’s charge, flayed itself to ribbons as if it had been a mere pocket handkerchief.
‘Storm trysails, close-reefed!’ FitzRoy screamed from an inch away into Sorrell’s ear. Again, the crew barely needed the boatswain’s frantic attempts to relay the instruction. Figures swarmed back up the masts like monkeys, into the rigging and out on to the violently swaying yards. Even though they were close-reefed, the sails flapped madly, fighting like wild animals to cast aside their handlers, but gradually, steadily, they were brought under control. The storm trysails were FitzRoy’s only remaining option. Too much sail and the wind would rip the canvas to pieces. Too little and the ship would lose steerage, leaving the elements free to batter her to destruction.
The sea was heavy now, the ship rolling, the decks swept every few seconds by several feet of thick, foamy water. The sky had turned black, but incessant lightning flashes were now illuminating the scene, both from above and below. It’s like an immense metal foundry, thought FitzRoy. God’s machine room. If just one of these lightning bolts strikes a mast, we’re all dead men. A flash illuminated Kempe’s skeletal face to his left, and he could read the fear written there. The lieutenant’s smile was frozen mirthlessly on his face. I must not give in to my own fear. If I do they will smell it. They will know.
Hanging grimly to the taffrail behind them, Midshipman King stood open-mouthed in wonder. Even during two years in the south, he’s never seen a storm like this, FitzRoy marvelled. Then he followed King’s gaze. Then he saw the wave. And then all of them saw it, illuminated in a white sheet of electricity. A wall of water as big as a house - forty feet high? Fifty? Sixty? - towering above the port beam, a sheer brown cliff frozen in the lightning’s flash.