paintings at the castle, 180–182

  the town and inhabitants, 174–178

  theatre, 182–183

  De Forest, John W., xxiii

  de Musset, Alfred, 119–122, 128

  de Warens, Françoise-Louise, 102–103

  death

  accident on the Thames, 236

  of Henry James, xvii

  della Robbia, Luca, 191, 209

  Derbyshire, England

  Chatsworth, England, 70–71

  Haddon Hall, 67–70

  Devonshire, England

  color and beauty of, 75–76

  Exeter Cathedral, 76–79

  Ilfracombe, 79–82

  Lynton and Lynmouth, 83–86

  dirt and squalor

  Darmstadt, 177–178

  Florence, 188–189

  Gravesend, 237

  Rome, 150

  Ticonderoga, 26–27

  Venice, 133–134

  dogs: English hunters in Scotland, 243–244

  Doré, Gustave, 228–230

  Drury Lane Theatre, London, 257(fig.)

  Dumas, Alexandre, 125–126

  Dumfriesshire, Scotland, 251

  Edel, Leon, xi, xiii

  Edinburgh, Scotland, 241–242, 245–246

  education

  James children’s studies abroad, xix

  lack of training in British theatre, 260–261

  travel as self-education, xii

  England

  an Englishman’s right to comfort, 234–235

  British theatre, 257–265

  Glastonbury, 87(fig.), 94–95

  Gravesend, 236–238

  Haddon Hall, 67–70

  James’s early travels, x–xi

  Lichfield, 61(fig.), 63–66

  Salisbury Cathedral, 96–97

  Somerset, 85–86

  sporting life, 249–253

  the Anglican Church, 249

  Warwick, 71–74

  Wells, 87–90

  See also Devonshire; London

  English tourists

  in Rome, 147–148

  in Scotland, 242

  Europe, 4–5

  an Englishman’s right to comfort, 234–235

  James’s early travels, x–xi, xviii

  political observations, xiii–xiv

  See also specific countries and cities

  Exeter, England, 76–79

  family, James’s, ix–xi, xviii–xix

  fashion

  English visitors in Scotland, 242–243

  in Turin, 106

  labeling the American tourists, 163–164

  women of Saratoga, 6–9

  Ferrara, Italy, 177

  festas, Bologna’s, 212–213

  Feydeau, Ernest, 142

  fiction, James’s, xxi–xxii

  Florence, Italy, 185(fig.)

  art, 192–195

  “Florentine flavor,” 186–188

  flow of the seasons, 185–187

  light and atmosphere, 189–191

  Fra Angelico, 191

  France

  British adaptation of French comedies, 264

  Comédie Française, 117(fig.)

  Franco-Scottish castles, 255–256

  James’s deathbed reminiscences, xvii–xviii

  James’s political observations, xiii–xiv

  preserving the respectability of the theatre, 259–260

  social phenomena and theatre, 117–118

  temperament and characteristics of the French, 165

  See also Théâtre Français

  frescoes

  cathedral of Pisa, 205–206

  Leonardo’s “Last Supper,” 96, 112–113

  frugality of the Scots, 248–249

  Galla Placidia, Ravenna, Italy, 211(fig.), 214, 220–221

  gaming houses

  Doré’s “Le Tapis Vert,” 230

  Homburg, 157–158, 162

  Saratoga, xxi–xxii, 3–4

  gardens

  Darmstadt, 173, 182

  Germans’ fondness for, 182

  Homburg, 159–160

  Lucca, 207–208

  Tuscany, 198–199

  Wells Cathedral, 92–93

  Germany

  contrast with Italy, 141–143

  grand and powerful German temperament, 165–167

  See also Bad Homburg; Darmstadt

  Giotto’s Tower, Florence, Italy, 191

  Glastonbury Abbey, England, 94–95

  Glens Falls (Glenn’s Falls), New York, 16

  Goat Island (Niagara Falls), 54–55

  Gozzoli, Benozzo, 205–206

  Gravesend, England, 236–238

  great American novel, xxii–xxiv, 29, 38

  Great Lakes, United States, 45–46

  Green Mountains, Vermont, 13, 28–29

  Haddon Hall, England, 67–70

  Hamlet (Shakespeare), 261

  health

  Homburg Kursaal, 158–159, 168–169

  James’s strokes and death, xvii–xviii

  Newport resort, 31–32

  waters at Ilfracombe, 79–82

  Henry VIII, 94–95

  Hesse-Darmstadt. See Darmstadt

  Highland reel, 252–254

  history

  historical figures in Scotland, 246–247

  Ravenna’s character, 214–215

  Ravenna’s literary history, 221–223

  Holbein, Hans, 183–184

  Holyrood Palace, Edinburgh, Scotland, 246

  Homburg, Germany. See Bad Homburg, Germany

  Horseshoe (Niagara Falls), 55–57

  Howard, Bronson, 265

  Howells, William Dean, xxiv

  Il ne Faut Jurer de Rien (de Musset), 119–122

  Ilfracombe, England, 79–82

  income, James’s, x–xi, xx–xxi

  independence as a Scottish characteristic, 247–248

  inns in Scotland and Switzerland, 244–245

  insect life of Lake George, 20

  Irving, Henry, 260–261

  Italy

  arrival through the Mont Cenis Tunnel, 105

  autumn in Florence, 185(fig.)

  characteristics of French Savoie, 101–102

  comparing Lake Como to Lake George, 17–22

  contrast with Germany, 141–143

  Florence, 185–195, 185(fig.)

  influence on Franco-Scottish castles, 256

  James’s first travels to Rome, xx

  Lake Como, 17–22, 114–115

  Leghorn, 197–199

  Lucca, 207–208

  Milan, 108–113

  Pisa, 197(fig.), 199–205

  Pistoia, 208–209

  Turin, 105–107

  Verona, 141–145

  See also Ravenna; Rome; Venice

  James, Alice (sister), xx–xxi

  James, Henry, Sr. (father), ix–x, xix

  James, William (brother), xix–xx

  Johnson, Samuel, ix, 61(fig.), 62–63

  Keats, John, 153

  Kensington Gardens: Albert Memorial, 225–228

  Kursaal at Bad Homburg, 158–159, 169

  Lake Champlain, United States-Canada, 26–28

  Lake Como, Italy, 17–22, 114–115

  Lake George, New York, xii

  comparison to Lake Como, 17–22

  insects and plants, 20–21

  Lake Champlain and, 28

  soldier’s monument, 16–17

  steamer journey across, 25–26

  vision of Prussian greatness, 23

  landscapes

  Devonshire’s color and beauty, 75–76

  Gustave Doré’s paintings, 230

  Warwickshire, 71–72

  “Last Supper” (Leonardo da Vinci), 96, 112–113

  “Last Supper” (Tintoretto), 140

  Laya, Léon, 126–127

  Leaning Tower of Pisa, 199–200

  Leaves of Grass (Whitman), viii

  Leghorn, Italy. See Livorno (Leghorn)
, Italy

  leisured class

  American theatre, 260

  America’s lack of, 9–10

  English shooting in Scotland, 242–243

  the “London life,” 232–233

  visitors to Newport, 36

  Leonardo da Vinci, 96, 112–113

  Les Charmettes, Chambéry, France, 101(fig.), 102–104

  library at Darmstadt Schloss, 180

  Lichfield, England, 61(fig.)

  Dr. Johnson, 62–63

  the Cathedral, 63–66

  light

  Newport’s contrasting tones, 42

  the visual delights of Venice, 133–134

  literary career, James’s

  earliest writings, xix–xx

  literary quality of de Musset’s plays, 120–121

  serial publications 1872–1874, xxi

  literary realism, xxiv–xxv, 2–3

  literature, 125

  literary nudity of British theatre, 262–264

  Ravenna’s literary history, 221–223

  Livorno (Leghorn), Italy, 197–198

  Lombardy region of Italy, 112

  London

  Albert Memorial, 225–228, 225(fig.)

  Doré exhibit, 228–230

  Dr. Johnson’s fondness for, 62–63

  Drury Lane theatre, 257(fig.)

  Thames accident, 231(fig.), 235–236, 238

  tranquility of the off-season, 231–234

  Louis I (Duke), 175–176

  Louvre Museum, Paris, 140–141

  Lucca, Italy, 207

  Lynmouth, England, 83–84

  Lynton, England, 83–85

  manners

  Parisian theatre, 117–118

  respectability of British dramatists, 259

  Scottish, 248–249

  the German tone of the people of Homburg, 164–166

  writing to the London Times, 233–234

  Manners, John, 68

  Mantegna, Andrea, 145

  Michaelangelo (Michael Angelo), 205, 229

  Milan, Italy, 108–113

  military

  castle at Darmstadt, 178–180

  in the German temperament, 167–168

  Mixed Essays (Arnold), 257

  moats

  Darmstadt castle, 178

  Episcopal Palace at Wells, 93

  Molière, 119–120, 128

  Monaco, 3

  Mont Cenis Tunnel, France, 104–105

  monuments

  Albert Memorial, 225–228, 225(fig.)

  to Sir Walter Scott, 245–246

  morality

  in theatre, 125–127

  role in ecclesiastical architecture, 109

  Morrissey, John, 3

  mosaics

  Pisa, 202–203

  Ravenna, 215–218

  Torcello, 136

  mountain scenery

  English shooting in Scotland, 250–253

  Green Mountains, 13, 28–29

  Homburg, 159–161

  Lake George and Lake Como, 17–22, 25–26

  the view from Florence, 187

  music, 166–167, 168

  Nation weekly, vii–xiii, xxii–xxiii

  national character

  French and German, 165

  Scottish, 248

  nationalistic feeling, xxi–xxv, 5–6

  Newport, Rhode Island, xii

  celebration of pleasure-taking and idleness, 36–38

  comparison with Saratoga, 35–38

  contrasting tones and romantic elements, 41–44

  picturesque elements, 39–41

  presence of the sea, 38–39

  scenic beauty, 31–33

  the feminine element, 34–35

  Niagara, New York

  beauty and features of, 52–54

  contrast between the village and the Falls, 47–49

  diverse views of the Falls, 49–51

  first glimpse of the Falls, 46–48

  Goat Island, 54–55

  navigating the Great Lakes, 45–46

  the Horseshoe, 55–57

  the Whirlpool, 57–59

  night life in Saratoga, 3–4

  nobility, Gallicization of Scotland’s, 256

  Norman stonework, 77–79

  Orcagna (Andrea di Cione di Arcangelo), 204, 205

  Oxford University, England, 61, 152, 203

  palaces

  Episcopal Palace at Wells, 92–94

  Florence, 188

  Pisa, 206

  Paris, France. See France; Théâtre Français

  Parliament, 239

  Pincio, Rome, Italy, 149

  Pisa, Italy, 197(fig.), 199–205

  Pistoia, Italy, 208–209

  Pitti Palace, Florence, Italy, 192

  Place de la Concorde, Paris, France, xviii

  poetry: James’s critique of Whitman, vii–ix

  politics

  James’s observations on European relations, xiii–xiv

  London in the off-season, 239

  Prussian greatness, 23

  Pompeii, Italy, 69

  Porlock, England, 85–86

  The Portrait of a Lady (James), xxii

  Prince of Wales Theatre, London, 262–265

  Princes Street, Edinburgh, 245–246

  prose style, James’s, xiv–xv

  Prussia, xiii–xiv, 23. See also Darmstadt

  Quakers, 41

  Raphael, 113, 194, 195

  Ravenna, Italy

  churches, 219–221, 223

  Corso, 213–214

  literary history, 221–223

  mausoleum of Galla Placidia, 220–221

  mosaics, 215–218

  Religious Corporations Act, 155

  religious life and institutions

  Bologna’s festas, 212–213

  Ravenna’s churches, 215–223

  Scottish Sawbath, 254–255

  the Anglican Church, 249

  See also churches

  reviews, James’s, vii–ix

  rights of the English individual, 234–235

  river scenery and travel

  Lake Champlain, 28

  Niagara, 46–48

  Thames shipping accident, 231(fig.), 235–236, 238

  Roderick Hudson (James), xxiii–xxiv

  Roman Arena, Verona, Italy, 142–143

  Rome, Italy, xx

  as tourist mecca, 147–148

  cemetery at St. Paul’s Gate, 152–155

  Spanish Steps, 147(fig.)

  the “smile” of, 150–151

  the villas, 150–152

  tourist exodus, 148–150

  Rosherville Gardens, Gravesend, England, 237–238

  Rousseau, Jean-Jacques, 103–105

  Rubens, Peter Paul, 229

  ruins: Glastonbury Abbey, 94–96

  Ruskin, John, 14

  Sabbath (Sawbath), Scotland’s, 254

  St. Cuthbert, church of, 93–94

  St. Peter’s Basilica, Rome, Italy, 155

  Salisbury, England

  Stonehenge and Wilton House, 98–99

  the cathedral, 96

  San Apollinare in Classe, Italy, 223

  San Apollinare Nuovo, Ravenna, Italy, 216–218, 219

  San Cassiano (San Cassano) church, Venice, Italy, 137–138

  San Rocco, Italy, 140–141

  San Vitale, Ravenna, Italy, 219–220

  San Zeno (San Zenone), church of, Verona, Italy, 145

  Sand, George, 103

  Santi Nazaro e Celso, Ravenna, Italy, 211(fig.), 214, 220–221

  Saratoga, New York, xii, 1(fig.)

  balls, 10–12

  comparison with Cheltenham, 10

  comparison with Newport, 35–38

  fashionable elegance of the women, 6–9

  handsomeness of the average American man, 5–6

  James’s glowing prose, xxi–xxii

  Savoie region of France, 101–102

  Scotland

  Edinburgh, 241–242


  English passion for shooting, 250–253

  English travelers, 242–244

  Highland reel, 252–254

  history and beauty, 246–248

  Sawbath, 254–255

  typical viands, 244–245

  Scott, Gilbert, 65

  Scott, Sir Walter, 245–246

  seasons

  in Florence, 185–186

  Rome in the spring, 148–151

  Shakespeare, William, 70, 71–72

  Shelley, Percy Bysshe, 153, 232

  shooting, English passion for, 238–239, 250–253

  Il Sodoma (painter), 203

  soldier’s monument, 16–17

  Somerset, England, 85–86

  Spanish Steps, Rome, Italy, 147(fig.)

  sport, English love of, 238–239, 242–244, 249–253

  stained glass

  Exeter Cathedral, 77–78

  Lichfield Cathedral, 65–66

  statuto (Italian holiday), 212–213

  Stirling, Scotland, 256

  Stonehenge, England, 97–98

  strokes, James’s, xvii–xviii

  Superga, Turin, Italy, 106–107

  Switzerland, 101–102, 104–105

  tables d’hôte, English, 82, 244–245

  “Le Tapis Vert” (Doré), 230

  Tennyson, Alfred, Lord, 85

  Terry, Ellen, 261–262

  Thames shipping accident, 231(fig.), 235–236, 238

  theatre, xiv

  as social phenomenon, 124–126

  Darmstadt, 182–183

  Henry Irving and Ellen Terry, 260–262

  lack of training in British theatre, 260–261

  literary nudity of British theatre, 262–264

  London’s Drury Lane theatre, 257(fig.)

  the fashion of British theatre, 257–259

  Verona’s open-air performance, 143

  Théâtre Français

  as sensual and intellectual experience, 118

  audience members, 123–124

  comedic brilliance, 128–129

  Comédie Française, 117(fig.)

  Molière and de Musset, 119–122

  moral themes, 125–127

  recurrent themes, 124–126

  respectability of, 259–260

  Ticonderoga, New York, 26–27

  Tintoretto (Tintoret), 137–140, 229

  Titian, 138, 139–140

  Tombs of the Scaligers, Verona, Italy, 144

  Torcello, Italy, 134–136

  Truth (Howard), 265

  Turin, Italy, 105–107

  Tuscany region of Italy

  Leghorn, 197–199

  Pisa, 199–201

  Tuscan art, 191

  See also Florence

  Twain, Mark, xxiv

  Uffizi, Florence, Italy, 192–193

  Union Hotel, Saratoga, New York, 3–5

  United States

  Burlington, Vermont, xxii–xxiii, 28–29

  Green Mountains, 13, 28–29

  respectability of the theatre, 260

  the individual’s expectation of comfort, 235

  See also Lake George; Newport; Niagara; Saratoga

  University of Vermont, 29