CHAPTER THIRTY TWO.

  AN UNLOOKED-FOR SALUTE.

  In a strict military sense the capital of Mexico cannot be called afortified city. Still, it has defences, one being an _enceinte_ wall,which envelops it all round, leaving no straggled suburb, scarce so muchas a house, outside. Compact and close stand the dwellings of themodern city as those of ancient Tenochtitlan, whose site it occupies,though the waves of Tezcuco and Xochimilco no longer lap up to itswalls.

  The _enceinte_ spoken of is a mere structure of "adobes," largesun-baked blocks of mud and straw--in short, the bricks of theEgyptians, whose making so vexed Moses and the Israelites. Here andthere may be seen a little redoubt, with a battery of guns in it; butonly on revolutionary occasions--the wall, so far as defence goes, moreconcerning the smuggler than the soldier; and less contraband fromabroad than infringement of certain regulations of home commerce--chiefof them the tax called "alcabala," corresponding to the _octroi_ ofFrance, and the _corvee_ of some other European countries.

  The tax is collected at the "garitas," of which there is one on everyroad leading out of the city, or rather into it; for it is the man whoenters, not he making exit, who is called upon to contribute to the_alcabala_. It is levied on every article or commodity brought from thecountry in search of a city market. Nothing escapes it; the produce offarm and garden, field and forest--all have to pay toll at the_garitas_, so losing a considerable percentage of their value. Thebrown aboriginal, his "burro" laden with charcoal, or skins of _pulque_,or himself staggering under a load of planks heavy enough to weigh downa donkey, which he has transported from a mountain forest--ten or twentymiles it may be--is mulcted in this blackmail before he can pass througha _garita_.

  Not unfrequently he is unable to meet the demand till he have made saleof the taxed commodity. On such occasions he hypothecates his hat, or_frezada_, leaving it at the gate, and going on bareheaded orbare-shouldered to the market, to redeem the pawned article on return.

  Save through these gates there is no access to, or egress from, theMexican capital; and at each, besides the official having charge of therevenue matters, a soldier-guard is stationed, with a guard-houseprovided; their duties being of a mixed, three-cornered kind--customs,police, and military. Five or six such posts there are, on the five orsix roads leading out from the city, like the radiating limbs of astar-fish; and one of these is the _garita_ El Nino Perdido--literally,the gate of the "Lost Child." It is, however, one through which thetraffic is of secondary importance; since it is not on any of the mainroutes of travel. That which it bars is but a country road,communicating with the villages of Mixcoac, Coyoacan, and San Angel.Still, these being places of rural residence, where some of the_familiares principes_ have country houses, a carriage passing throughthe gate of the Lost Child is no rarity. Besides, from the gate itselfruns a _Calzada_, or causeway, wide and straight for nearly two miles,with a double row of grand old trees along each side, whose pleasantshade invites, and often receives, visits from city excursionists outfor a stroll, ride, or drive. Near the end of the second mile it anglesabruptly to the right, in the direction of San Angel--a sharp corner thewriter has good reason to remember, having been shot at by_salteadores_, luckily missed, while passing round it on his way fromcountry quarters to the city. A horse of best blood saved _his_ bloodthere, or this tale would never have been told.

  Asking the reader's pardon for a personal digression--with the excusethat it may throw light on the scene to follow--it will be understoodhow easily the guard on duty at the gate might be "thrown off guard" bya carriage passing through it; especially on that day when there were somany, by reason of the grand doings in the city.

  Several had just passed, going country-wards; for it was the season ofrural sojourn among the "ricos." So, when another appeared, heading inthe same direction, the guard-sergeant at Nino Perdido saw nothingamiss, or to be suspicious of; instead, something to inspire him withrespect. He had been on guard at the Palace scores of times; and byappearance knew all who were accustomed to pass in and out, moreespecially those holding authority. Liveries he could distinguish atany distance; and when he saw a carriage approaching along the street,with a coachman in sky-blue and silver, cockaded, he did not need itsbeing near to recognise the equipage of one of the Cabinet Ministers.

  Though a non-commissioned officer, he was a man of ambitious aims;dreaming of gold bullion in the shape of epaulettes; and he had long hadhis eye on the epaulette of an _alferez_--officers of this rank beingallowed only one. The good word of a Cabinet Minister, whether war,navy, or _Hacienda_, could give him what he was wishing for, easy at anod; and here was an opportunity of winning it.

  "_Cabo_!" he cried out to his corporal, in a flurry of excitement,"throw open the gate--quick! Fall in, men! Dress up--ready to presentarms! See that you do it handsomely!"

  It was in his favour, and so he congratulated himself that the carriagecame on rather slowly, so that he had ample time to get his half-dozenfiles well set-up and dressed for the salute.

  There was some buttoning of jackets, stocks to be adjusted roundshirtless necks, with shakos to be searched for inside the guard-house,and hurriedly clapped on. Still, it was all got through in good time;and, when at length the carriage came abreast, the guard was foundstanding at "present arms," the sergeant himself saluting in the mostgracious manner.

  They inside, knowing how, returned the salute in true soldier style,though with a surprised expression upon their faces. No wonder. Wherethey had anticipated difficulty and danger, they were received with morethan civility--accorded military honours!