NOTES TO VOLUME I
NOTE 1, p. 25
The groaning malt mentioned in the text was the ale brewed for thepurpose of being drunk after the lady or goodwife's safe delivery. Theken-no has a more ancient source, and perhaps the custom may be derivedfrom the secret rites of the Bona Dea. A large and rich cheese was madeby the women of the family, with great affectation of secrecy, for therefreshment of the gossips who were to attend at the 'canny' minute. Thiswas the ken-no, so called because its existence was secret (that is,presumed to be so) from all the males of the family, but especially fromthe husband and master. He was accordingly expected to conduct himself asif he knew of no such preparation, to act as if desirous to press thefemale guests to refreshments, and to seem surprised at their obstinaterefusal. But the instant his back was turned the ken-no was produced; andafter all had eaten their fill, with a proper accompaniment of thegroaning malt, the remainder was divided among the gossips, each carryinga large portion home with the same affectation of great secrecy.