CHAPTER XV.
COPENHAGEN AND TIVOLI.
All the boats of the squadron came into line, each with the flag inthe bow and stern. They pulled along the water front of the city,around a couple of Danish men-of-war, and of course created asensation. One by one the boats rowed up to the landing, and thestudents went on shore, each crew securing its cutter at the wharf,near the steps. The custom-house officers were on the alert; but as noone had parcels of any kind, the students were not detained. Mr. andMrs. Kendall landed, and as they intended to spend a few days in thecity, they had a couple of valises, which the porters, who are alwaysin waiting at all the ports in Europe, conveyed into the custom-house.The Toldbod, as this edifice is called by the Danes, is surrounded bya high wall, which also encloses the entire landing-place, so thatnone can visit the city from the sea without passing through itsgates.
One of the officers spoke English very well, and evidently took pridein doing so, for he asked a great many questions so pleasantly, thatit was impossible to explain his object in any other way. He wished toknow whether the travellers had any clothing they had not worn, andwhether Mrs. Kendall had any tobacco or liquor. She protested thatshe did not use tobacco or liquor; and the actual examination of thebaggage was a mere form. The man was so polite, that Paul at onceconcluded he was only practising his English. A carriage was procured,and Dr. Winstock and Captain Lincoln were invited to join the party.The inquiring students deemed it a great privilege to be permitted togo with the surgeon, for he was a walking encyclopaedia of every cityand country in Europe. As Paul Kendall had been before, CaptainLincoln was now, the favorite of the doctor, and the little party wereto see the city together.
The carriage went out at the gate, and passed into Amaliegade. Thehouses were plain and substantial, without much ornament. They were ofbrick, but most of them were covered with stucco.
"What's this?" asked Paul, as the carriage entered an open space, withan equestrian statue in the centre.
"Frederiksplads," replied the doctor; "and that is the statue ofFrederik V., who came to the throne in 1746, and in whose reign thispalace was erected."
The place was an octagon, surrounded on all sides by public buildings.
"This is the residence of the king on the left. On the other side isthe palace of the crown prince. There is the foreign office, and onthe other side lives the queen dowager."
"They are not very elegant buildings," said Captain Lincoln.
"No; there are no very fine buildings in Copenhagen, though theExchange is a very curious structure, and some are very large andunwieldy. There's the Casino," added the doctor.
"What's a casino?" inquired the captain.
"Here it is a building for dancing, concerts, theatrical performances,and similar amusements in the winter season. Everything is cheap here,and the price of admission to the Casino, where one joins the dance orsees a play, is two or three marks."
"How much is that? I haven't looked up the money yet," said Paul.
"A rigsbank dollar is the unit, worth about fifty-four cents of ourmoney. It is divided into six marks, of nine cents each, and a markinto sixteen skillings, of about half a cent each. When the Italianopera is at the Casino, the prices are only three or four marks. Thisis Gothersgade," added Dr. Winstock, as the carriage turned intoanother street. "In plain English, Gothic street."
"There's another equestrian statue," added Captain Lincoln, pointingto a large, irregular space, surrounded by public buildings.
"The statue of Christian V. This is Kongens, or King's Square. Thereare the Academy of Arts, the Royal Theatre, the Guard House, the NewMarket--none of them very fine, as you can see for yourselves."
The carriage crossed this square, and came out at a canal, on theother side of which was the vast palace of Christiansborg. A shortdistance farther brought the party to the Royal Hotel. The carriagestopped at the door in the arch, and the two landlords, the porter,the waiters, and the clerk, half a score strong, turned out toreceive its occupants. All of them bowed low, and all of them led theway up stairs. Paul took a parlor and chamber for himself and lady.
"Now, where's Joseph?" asked Dr. Winstock.
"Who's Joseph?" inquired the captain.
"He is the guide at this hotel, if he is still living."
Joseph was sent for, and soon made his appearance. He was an elderlyman, with gray hair and whiskers, neatly dressed in black. His mannerswere very agreeable, and he exhibited a lively zeal to serve thetourists. Mr. Lowington had been courteously waited upon by an officerof the government, who had volunteered to have the various palaces,museums, and other places of interest, opened during the afternoon andthe next day. Joseph had procured a two-horse carriage, and the partyat the hotel seated themselves in it, with the guide on the box withthe driver.
"That's the Slot," said Joseph, pointing across the canal.
"The what?" exclaimed Captain Lincoln.
"The Slot, or Palace of Christiansborg."
"Slot! What a name!"
"But not any worse than the German word _Schloss_," added Joseph,laughing. "Do you speak German, sir?"
"Not much."
The guide uttered a few sentences in German, evidently for the purposeof demonstrating that he spoke the language.
"The palace is on an island called Slotsholm, and is as big as it isugly. Shall we go there now?"
"No; we want a general view of the city first," replied Dr. Winstock."I think we had better ascend to the top of the Round Tower."
Joseph gave the order, and the carriage proceeded to the tower. Thecanal in front of the hotel was filled with small craft, which hadbrought pottery and various wares from other parts of Denmark, tosell. The goods were arranged on the decks and on the shore of thecanal. Near were groups of women, who were selling fish, vegetables,and other articles, around whom was a crowd of purchasers.
"I suppose you have heard of Andersen?" said Joseph to the captain.
"Heard of him! I have read all his books which have been translatedinto English," replied Captain Lincoln.
"He has rooms in that building some of the time. Do you see thatsign--Melchoir?"
"Yes."
"This Melchoir is a very dear friend of Andersen, who lives with him aportion of the time."
"Is it possible to see Hans Christian Andersen?" asked Mrs. Kendall.
"Quite possible, madam. I will see about it to-day. He is a veryagreeable man, and willing to meet all who wish to see him," answeredJoseph. "There's the Town Hall," he added, as the carriage passed alarge building, with an extensive colonnade in front.
"'_Med Lov skal man Land bygge_,'" said Lincoln, reading aninscription on the front. "Those are my sentiments exactly."
"'With law must the land be built' is the English of that," laughedJoseph. "All the Jutland laws begin with this phrase, which wasspoken by Waldemar II. We Danes believe in law, and everything that isgood. Copenhagen is a very fine city, and everything is remarkablycheap here."
"What do you call your city in your own lingo, Joseph?"
"Kjoebenhavn; pronounce it Chep-en-ahn."
"Chepenahn," repeated Lincoln.
"Speak it a little quicker, and you will have it right. It was firstcalled simply the Haven; then in Danish, when many merchants carriedon business here, _Kaupmannahoefn_, or merchants' haven, from which itwas shortened into _chepenahn_. Here is the Round Tower," addedJoseph, as the carriage stopped.
The party alighted and entered the structure, which was the tower ofthe Church of the Trinity.
"This used to be the watch tower, where men were kept to give thealarm in case of fire; but the observatory has been moved to the towerof St. Nicholas, and now we have a telegraphic fire alarm. Won't youwalk up to the top of this tower, where you can have a fine view ofthe whole city? The ascent is very easy," continued Joseph.
There were no stairs, but an inclined plane, gradual in its rise,permitted the tourists to ascend to the summit with very little labor.
"We might have
driven up in the carriage," said Captain Lincoln.
"There would be no difficulty at all in doing so. In fact, Peter theGreat, when he was in Copenhagen, in 1716, drove to the top with theEmpress Catharine, in a coach and four."
"Is that so?" asked the captain.
"I can't remember so far back myself," chuckled Joseph, "for I'm notmuch over a hundred years old; but everybody says it is true, and Isee no reason to doubt the story. Peter the Great liked to do strangethings, and you can see for yourself that a carriage would run verywell here."
"If he went up with a coach and four, of course he must have comedown, unless the carriage and horses are up there now. How did he turnhis team?"
"It is easier to ask some questions than to answer them," repliedJoseph. "History does not say that he drove down, only that he droveup."
"Perhaps he backed down, which kings and emperors are sometimesobliged to do, as well as common people," suggested Paul Kendall.
"Very likely he did; I don't see any other way for the team todescend," added Joseph. "This tower was begun in 1639."
At the top of the structure the travellers took a general survey ofthe city, and then proceeded to examine it in detail.
"Do you remember the latitude of Copenhagen, Captain Lincoln?" askedDr. Winstock.
"About fifty-five and a half."
"The same as the middle of Labrador. Quebec is about forty-seven, andthis is a long way farther north. What is the population of this city,Joseph?" asked the doctor.
"One hundred and eighty-one thousand," replied the guide, giving thecensus of 1870. "Formerly the city was a walled town, with rampartsand moats. It was built partly on Seeland, and partly on the smallisland of Amager. The channel between them is the harbor. You can seewhere the old line of fortifications was. The old town lies nearest tothe sea, but the city is now spreading rapidly out into the country."
"What is that broad sheet of water, with two bridges over it?" askedLincoln, pointing to the land side.
"That is the reservoir. Formerly the water in the city was bad, butnow it has an excellent system of water-works. The water comes in fromthe country, and is pumped up by steam before it is distributed.Beyond that, for miles, the country is covered with beautiful villasand country residences. You must ride out there, for the environs ofCopenhagen are as fine as anything in Europe."
"You are right, Joseph," added the doctor. "Some parts of the city arenot unlike Holland, you see. The Slotsholm canal gives that part ofthe town a decidedly Dutch look."
"The part on Amager, called Christianshavn, is all cut up by canals,"added the guide.
"Now, we will take a ride around the city," said Paul Kendall.
The party descended, and having driven through some of the principalstreets, and obtained a very good idea of the city, returned to thehotel.
"Now you can dismiss the carriage, and we will go to some of themuseums and churches," suggested Joseph.
"We don't care to walk far; we will retain the carriage," repliedPaul.
"It will be much cheaper to walk, as you have to pay four marks anhour for the carriage," pleaded the economical guide. "Thorwaldsen'sMuseum and the Northern Antiquities are only a few steps from here."
"Very well; we will walk, then, if you insist upon it," laughed Paul.
"I thought these guides made you spend as much money as possible,"said Captain Lincoln to the surgeon.
"I never found it so. I think they are a very useful class of men.They charge here about two rigsdalers a day, and I remember thatJoseph would not let me throw away a single mark. They know the pricesfor carriages and everything else, and it is for their interest not tolet any one cheat their employers. Perhaps it is not well to makepurchases with them, for they compel the merchant to pay them acommission, which increases the price charged for the articles. But Ithink, in many places, I have done better with a _commissionnaire_than without one, in making purchases."
Joseph led the way across the bridge to Slotsholm, which was nearlycovered by the immense palace of Christiansborg and its dependencies.The first building was Thorwaldsen's Museum, the outer walls of whichwere covered with an Etruscan fresco of the arrival and debarkation ofthe great sculptor and his goods, mostly works of art. The figures areabout life size, and the situation in which the pictures are placed isnovel and quaint. The work was done by inlaying cement of differentcolors in the wall. Joseph described the various scenes. Thorwaldsenis still held in the highest regard and veneration by all Denmark,and especially by all Copenhagen; indeed, he seems to be the greatgenius of the country. He was born in 1770, near the city. His fatherwas an Icelander, and a carver in wood--a calling in which the sonassisted him when he was only a dozen years old. At seventeen hereceived the prize of a silver medal from the Academy of Arts, and attwenty-three the grand prize, which carried with it a royal pension,that enabled him to go abroad for the study of his art. He went toRome in 1796, where he had but little success, and was reduced almostto despair, when his model of Jason and the Golden Fleece attractedthe attention of an English gentleman, who commissioned him tocomplete the work in marble. This event was the dawn of success, andorders continued to pour in upon him from the rich and the powerful,including kings and emperors, until his fortune was made. His worksadorn many of the great cities of Europe, and Canova was his onlyactual rival. His fame extended to every nation, and a visit to hisnative land in 1819 was a triumphal progress through Italy andGermany. In 1838 he returned to Copenhagen, to pass the remainderof his days, in a frigate sent to Italy for his use by the Danishgovernment. On one side of his museum are depicted his arrival in thisship, and his reception by the citizens; and on the other side, theconveyance of his works from the ship to their final destination.Thorwaldsen went to Rome again on a visit for his health, and died inCopenhagen in 1844. He was a modest, generous, and amiable man. Themuseum was erected by subscription, though the sculptor gave afourth part of the sum necessary for its erection, and in his willbequeathed to it the works of art from his cunning brain, of which itscontents are almost entirely composed. His biography has been writtenby Hans Christian Andersen.
After examining the frescoes on the outer wall, the party entered thebuilding. It is an oblong structure, with a court-yard in the middle.It is two stories in height, with connected rooms extending entirelyaround it. The works of art, and memorials of the sculptor, areclassified in these apartments, forty-two in number.
"That is the grave of Thorwaldsen," said Joseph, leading the way intothe court-yard. "His body lies there, surrounded by his works, as herequested."
The grave is an oblong enclosure of polished granite, raised a fewinches above the ground, and covered over with ivy. At the foot of itis a black cross, with the date of his death inscribed upon it.
The tourists walked through the various rooms, and examined the worksof the immortal genius, most of which were in plaster, being themodels of all his great achievements set up in marble in various partsof Europe. His pictures, his library, his collections of coins, vases,and antiquities, are placed in the museum. One room is fitted up withhis furniture, precisely as he used it, and various interestingmementos of the man are to be seen there. Among the pictures aresome mere daubs, which are preserved only because they belonged toThorwaldsen; but they have an interest as an illustration of thebenevolent character of the great sculptor, who ordered many of themmerely to save the artists from starvation.
"Did you ever see Thorwaldsen?" asked Lincoln, as Joseph conductedhis charge from the building.
"Often," replied the guide. "He was a venerable-looking old man, withlong, white hair. He made a statue of himself, which is very like him.He died suddenly in the theatre, and the king and royal familyfollowed his remains to the church."
The Museum of Northern Antiquities was in the old palace of a prince,on the other side of the canal. On the front of the building were somequaint carvings, which gave it a picturesque appearance. Joseph seemedto be in his element at this museum. He spoke glibly and learnedly
of"the stone age," "the bronze age," and "the iron age," each designatedby the material of which the implements used for domestic purposes, inwar and agriculture, were composed. Numberless utensils of all kindsare contained in the cabinets, classified with rare skill, andarranged with excellent taste. All these objects were found belowground, in various parts of Scandinavia. In Denmark the law requiresthat all antiquities of metal shall belong to the government, which,however, pays the full value of the articles to the finder. In 1847 apair of solid gold bracelets, very heavy, and elegantly wrought, weredug up from the earth, and added to this collection. There is a greatvariety of ornaments, in gold and silver, consisting of necklaces,rings, bracelets, and similar trinkets. One necklace contains threepounds of pure gold.
There are plenty of knives, arrow-heads, hatchets, hammers, chisels,and other implements, skilfully made of stone. Runic writings, themost valuable in the world, are collected here. Joseph said thatcertain long pieces of wood, with signs carved upon them, wereIcelandic Calendars. The remains of a warrior, who had fought and diedin the ancient time, with the iron mail of his day, were examined withinterest, as were also a number of altars, coffers containing relics,and some gold crosses, one of which is said to contain a splinter fromthe true cross, which were exhibited as specimens of the Catholic formof worship in remote times.
Recrossing the bridge over the canal, the party entered the great,barn-like palace of Christiansborg. It consists of several connectedbuildings, containing a theatre, riding-school, stables, coach-houses,bake-house, and the usual royal apartments. In 1168 a castle waserected on this spot, as a protection against pirates, which wasrepeatedly demolished, rebuilt, altered, and enlarged, till it waslevelled to the ground in 1732, and a new palace erected, but wasdestroyed by fire in 1784. It was rebuilt, in its present cumbrousproportions, in 1828. The visitors entered the large court-yard,passed through the picture gallery, the "Hall of the Knights," thethrone-room, looked into the riding-school,--which is a large, oblongroom, with an earth floor, where the royal family may practiseequestrianism,--the arsenal, the legislative chambers, and otherrooms, none of which were very striking to those who had visited thepalaces of Paris, London, Berlin, and St. Petersburg.
In front of the palace is a beautiful green, beyond which is theExchange, or Boersen, built by Christian IV. It is the most picturesqueedifice in the city, though the interior is entirely commonplace. Itis long and very narrow, and ornamented with a vast number of figurescut in the stone, with elegantly-wrought portals at the entrances. Butthe spire is the most remarkable portion of the building, and consistsof four dragons, the heads at the apex looking towards the four pointsof the compass.
From the Exchange the party walked to the Fruekirke, or Church of ourLady, which is interesting only on account of the works of Thorwaldsenwhich it contains. Behind the altar is the majestic and beautifulstatue of Christ, which stretches out its wounded hands, as if he weresaying, "Come unto me, ye that labor and are heavy-laden, and I willgive you rest." On each side of the church are the figures of thetwelve apostles, placed against the walls at equal distances, so as toinclude the whole extent. In the middle of the choir, in front of thealtar, is the figure of an angel, holding a baptismal font, in theshape of a shell, which some call Thorwaldsen's masterpiece. In thesacristy of the church are several other works of the great sculptor,who was first interred in this place, before the museum was ready toreceive his remains.
Mrs. Kendall declared she had seen enough for one day, forsight-seeing is the hardest work one can do when it is overdone. Aftersupper, when the lady was rested, she consented to visit Tivoli, wherethe students were to spend the evening. This celebrated resort of theCopenhageners is situated just outside of the old walls of the city,near the arm of the sea which divides Amager from Seeland. One of thetwo horse-railways, which the people in Europe generally persist incalling "tramways," extends through the city, passing the gates ofthis garden. Several of the officers and seamen of the ship came bythe cars, which hardly differ from those in use in the principalcities of the United States; but all of them have accommodations forpassengers on the top.
Captain Lincoln--who had been on board of the ship since he left theparty with whom he had spent the afternoon--and Norwood werepassengers in a car; but though they could not speak a word of Norsk,they were not disturbed by the situation. Presently the conductorpresented himself, which caused a general sounding of pockets amongthe occupants of the car. He had a tin box, suspended by a strap,which passed around his neck, to contain the money he received. In hishand he held a compact little roll of yellow paper, an inch and a halfin width, across which was printed a succession of little tickets,each with a number. The fare was four skillings, or two and one fourthcents, and, as each person paid, the conductor handed him one of thesepapers, torn from the roll. Captain Lincoln gave him a piece of money,and held up two fingers, pointing to his companion at the same time,to indicate that he paid for both. The man gave him his change, andtwo of the yellow tickets.
Kjobenhavns Sporvei. 4 Skilling. 904]
"What are these for?" asked Lincoln, glancing at the little papers.
"They are tickets, of course," replied Norwood.
"I don't think so," added the captain. "All the people seem to throwthem away, and the floor of the car is covered with them."
"O, I know now what they are!" exclaimed Norwood. "I have heard ofsuch things."
"I never did."
"I suppose you know what 'knocking down' means--don't you?" laughedthe second lieutenant.
"It means stealing."
"Precisely so. It is said that conductors and omnibus drivers at home'knock down' a good deal, which is the technical name for taking aportion of the fares. They use 'spotters' in our country to keep theconductors and drivers honest."
"Spotters?"
"Yes, that's the name of them. They are men and women, whom theconductors cannot distinguish from other passengers, employed by therailway companies to ride in the cars, and report the number ofpassengers on certain trips, so that the agents can tell whether thefares are all paid over. These tickets are used for the same purpose."
"I don't see what good they do. They certainly can't keep the menhonest, for almost everybody throws away his ticket."
"They are called control-marks," said a gentleman next to the captain,who had been listening with interest to the conversation, and whospoke good English. "The man has to tear one of them off every time apassenger pays him."
"They are all numbered, I see; mine is nine hundred and four," addedLincoln.
"When the man gives up this roll at night, the next number will showhow many he has torn off. If he began at No. 200 this morning, he hastaken seven hundred and four fares."
"But he might neglect to tear off fifty or a hundred in the course ofa day," suggested Lincoln, "and put the money for them in his pocket."
"If he does so, everybody is watching him, and anybody may report himto the agent. I am a share-owner of the company, and for aught theconductor knows, there may be one in every car. If the man neglectshis duty, my interest would prompt me to look after him."
"I see; thank you, sir."
"Here is Tivoli," added the gentleman. "I suppose you are goingthere."
"Yes, sir."
"It is a fine garden, and very cheap."
The young officers left the car, and bought tickets at the gate, forwhich they paid one mark, or nine cents, each. Near the entrance theyfound a man selling programmes of the evening's entertainment, at twoskillings each. Captain Lincoln bought one, for he carefully preservedevery handbill, ticket, or programme for future reference. He couldread a little of it. The performances were varied, and covered thetime from six o'clock till midnight. But the young officers preferredto take a general view of the premises. It was an extensive garden,prettily and tastefully laid out, with accommodations for concerts,circus, and theatrical performances. In the centre was a "beergarden," with table and s
eats, for little parties, who drank theirbeer and chatted, while a band played in a kiosk. Near it was abazaar, where all kinds of fancy articles were arranged for sale, withthe attendant raffles and lotteries. Farther removed from the centrewas a theatre, consisting, however, of only the stage, the audienceseating themselves in the open air. The performance, from six toseven, as the captain read in his programme, was
R1. 6. Entree gymnastique af Brodrene Hermann.
Or, in plain English, a gymnastic exhibition by the brothers Hermann.
In the circus there was a performance at half past seven, such as onesees in the United States, and "Hr. Wallet" was clown. At half pastnine o'clock, another exhibition was given in an enclosed building, towhich an extra admission fee was charged. At the theatre, dancing bysome "celebrated sisters" was in progress at nine o'clock. A Russianmountain was in operation during the whole evening. It was a railroaddown one inclined plane, and up another, and back over the same track,a ride costing a few skillings. The concert was continued at intervalsduring the entire evening. The "_cafe chantant_" was in full blastafter nine o'clock, in two places, one of which was a small hall, witha bar, and the other the interior of a Swiss cottage, with a gallerysurrounding it. In each of these were tables, where the audienceseated themselves, and drank brandy, wine, beer, and milder beverages.The singers, who are all females, stood upon a stage, and wereaccompanied by a piano. After one or two songs had been sung, one ofthe singers passed around among the audience with a plate to receivetheir contributions, each person generally giving a small copper coin.This order was continually repeated, and the money thus received isthe only salary of the performers, whose singing is villanously vile,and whose character is worse than their singing. A canal, extendingfrom the sea, comes up to Tivoli, and passes around an island. Boatsare to let here; and, indeed, there is no end to the variety ofamusements, and "all for nine cents," as Joseph had said half a dozentimes during the afternoon to his party, and a dozen times more duringthe evening. At half past ten the students returned to the squadron,for by that time they had seen all they desired.