Lemony Chicken
with Mustard Sauce
Serves 4
1 Tbsp sunflower or canola oil
4 boneless, skinless chicken breasts
10½ oz/310 ml chicken stock
A knob of butter
2 Tbsp Dijon mustard
1 tsp chopped fresh tarragon
Grated zest of 1 lemon plus ½ large lemon, sliced (or slice a whole lemon if small)
½ tsp salt
Freshly ground black pepper
8 oz/235 ml heavy cream
2 oz/60 ml dry white wine
Lemon Rice (Here)
Heat the oil in a large frying pan over a medium heat, add the chicken, and cook until browned. Pour the chicken stock over the chicken breasts and add the butter, mustard, tarragon, lemon zest, salt, and pepper. Cover and simmer gently for 30 minutes. Remove the chicken to a serving dish and keep warm. Now add the cream and wine to the pan and boil up to thicken the sauce and reduce it by about a third. Add the lemon slices and simmer gently for a further 5 minutes. Adjust the seasoning if necessary. Pour the sauce over the chicken and serve with lemon rice.
Pan-Seared Duck Breasts
with Port and Redcurrant Sauce
Serves 4
4 8-oz/227-g duck breasts, skin on
3 shallots, finely chopped
3 oz/85 g butter, cubed
8 oz/235 ml chicken stock
6 oz/170 g redcurrants
6 oz/180 ml port or red wine
1 tsp brown sugar (optional)
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
Dry each breast with a paper towel and use a sharp knife to make a crisscross diamond pattern on the skin. Place the duck breasts into a cold, dry frying pan. (Do not add any oil or butter.) Turn up the heat and cook skin-side down until the skin becomes quite crispy and the fat has been released.
Now before you cook the other side you may need to pour off most of the fat first. Reserve this fat for later and cook the breasts for a very short time, say 3 to 4 minutes if you like it pink in the middle. Leave the breasts uncovered for 5 minutes before removing to a cutting board and slicing each one diagonally against the grain.
Gently cook the shallots in the residue in the pan without allowing them to burn. You may need to add a knob of butter. Add the chicken stock and redcurrants and cook until the fruit is soft. Pour and push the sauce through a fine-mesh sieve into a clean pan, add the port, and bring to a brisk boil. Reduce the liquid by almost half and whisk in the remaining butter. Add the sugar and season with salt and pepper to taste. Serve the duck with the sauce on the side and Himmel und Urde (here) or simple Champ (here).
Kinky’s Note:
Keep the reserved fat refrigerated in a covered container to roast potatoes at another time.
VARIATION
Pan-Seared Duck Breasts with Rhubarb Sauce. Simmer 5 chopped rhubarb stalks, 2 tablespoons brown sugar, and 2 to 3 tablespoons water together until the rhubarb becomes soft. Allow to cool slightly and process in a blender. Serve this with the cooked duck instead of the port and redcurrant sauce. (Rhubarb sauce is also delicious with oily fish such as mackerel or with pork, instead of applesauce.)
Parmesan Chicken
Serves 4
2 oz/56 g butter
4 boneless, skinless chicken breasts
4 oz/120 ml dry white wine
2 oz/60 ml sherry
Grated zest of 1 lemon, plus 4 oz/120 ml lemon juice and lemon slices for garnish
Grated zest of 1 orange, plus orange slices for garnish
10 oz/295 ml light cream
4 oz/113 g Parmesan cheese, grated
Melt the butter in a large frying pan over a medium heat, add the chicken breasts, and sauté until browned and cooked through. Remove the chicken to a heatproof serving dish. Add the wine, sherry, citrus zest, and lemon juice to the pan. Turn up the heat to reduce the liquid and deglaze the pan. Lower the heat and stir in the cream. Sprinkle the cheese over the chicken and brown under a grill or broiler. Pour the sauce over the chicken breasts and garnish with the lemon and orange slices. Serve with rice and a green salad.
Lamb
Irish Stew
Serves 4 to 6
2¼ lb/1 kg bone-in lamb neck
1 Tbsp cooking oil
101 oz/3 L water
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 bay leaf
5 floury potatoes, cut into quarters
2 onions, chopped small
4–5 carrots, peeled and chopped small
5 waxy potatoes, cut into quarters
Worcestershire sauce
Chopped fresh parsley
First, scrape as much meat off the bones as possible and put the meat to one side. Heat the oil in a large pot over a medium to high heat and brown the bones for a few minutes. Add the water, season with salt and pepper, add the bay leaf, and bring to the boil. Simmer gently for about 2 hours. By this time the liquid should have reduced down to about 1 quart/1 L. Leave it to get cold so that you can remove the fat from the surface. (Putting it in the fridge really helps to solidify the fat.)
Scrape any remaining meat from the bones again and discard the bones. Now add with the rest of the meat to the liquid and cook for about 30 minutes. Then add the floury potatoes, onions, and carrots and cook for another 10 or 15 minutes or so, by which time the potatoes will start to break up and thicken the cooking liquid. Add the waxy potatoes and cook for a further 20 minutes or so over a gentle heat, stirring occasionally. Season to taste and add a few drops of Worcestershire (or other spicy brown) sauce. Sprinkle with chopped parsley and serve.
Kinky’s Note:
1. I like to make this over a period of two days as there can be quite a lot of fat to remove from the surface and it is much easier to do it after it has been refrigerated overnight and the fat has solidified.
2. The reason that I use both floury and waxy potatoes is that the floury ones help to thicken the cooking juices and the waxy ones retain their shape.
Braised Lamb Shanks
Lamb shanks can be from the shoulder or the hind leg. The shoulder takes longer to cook, so to achieve an even result cook the same types together. If possible, use a heavy-bottomed Dutch oven with a tight-fitting lid.
Serves 4
4 lamb shanks
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
2 Tbsp vegetable oil or olive oil
2 carrots, peeled and chopped
1 onion, chopped
2 celery stalks, chopped
10 garlic cloves
10 oz/295 ml red wine
10 oz/295 ml lamb or vegetable stock
1 Tbsp tomato puree
1 sprig fresh rosemary
1 sprig fresh thyme
2 bay leaves
Preheat the oven to 350°F/180°C. Season the shanks with salt and pepper.
Heat the oil in a large Dutch oven over a medium heat, add the shanks and brown them in the oil. Remove the lamb, add the carrots, onion, celery, and garlic and sauté for a few minutes. Pour in the red wine, bring to the boil, and simmer for a minute or two. Add the stock, tomato purée, rosemary, thyme, and bay leaves and place the shanks on top. Bring to the boil, cover, and cook in the oven for 1½ to 2½ hours, depending on the size and cut. (You can also do what I do and cook it on the stovetop if your pan is heavy-bottomed, but you will need to check the liquid level from time to time to make sure that it does not boil dry; add extra stock or water if the level looks too low.)
When the lamb has finished cooking, remove the shanks to a serving dish. Discard the herbs and half the vegetables. With an immersion blender, puree the remaining vegetables to thicken the sauce and, if necessary, reduce the remaining liquid in the casserole by bringing to the boil for a minute or two. There should only be just enough sauce to coat each lamb shank. Serve with Champ (here) and Redcurrant Jelly (here).
Lamb Wellington
Serves 4 to 6
DUXELLES
A splash of truffle o
il
3 shallots, finely chopped
1 garlic clove, crushed
2 rosemary leaves finely chopped
1 lb/455 g cremini mushrooms, finely chopped
1 Tbsp fresh parsley, finely chopped
LAMB
2¼ lb/1 kg boned fillet of lamb or boneless lamb loin
1 small bunch fresh thyme leaves
Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 package frozen puff pastry, about 1 lb/455 g, thawed
2 Tbsp Dijon mustard or prepared horseradish
1 egg
FOR THE DUXELLES:
Heat the oil in a large frying pan over a medium-high heat, add the shallots, garlic, and rosemary, then add the mushrooms and cook until all the moisture from the mushrooms has evaporated. Add the chopped parsley.
FOR THE LAMB:
Dry the lamb fillet with paper towels and sprinkle with the thyme, plenty of salt, and pepper. In a large frying pan, heat the oil over a high heat and sear the lamb on all sides and each end. Now spread mustard over the entire fillet, wrap in cling film, and leave to chill in a refrigerator. (This may be done up to 24 hours ahead.)
When you are ready to cook the lamb, preheat the oven to 450°F/220°C. Roll out the puff pastry to a size that will completely wrap around the lamb plus an extra inch or two for sealing. Spread the duxelles over the pastry. Lay the lamb on top, then fold the pastry round it and moisten and seal the pastry edges. Brush the pastry with the beaten egg and use a sharp knife to make a crisscross pattern. Sprinkle the pastry with some coarse sea salt to help it to crisp. Bake for 30 to 35 minutes, until the pastry is crisp and golden, then remove from the oven and allow to rest for 10 to 12 minutes. Using a really sharp knife, cut into slices. Serve with buttered garden peas, new baby potatoes, and Mint Chutney (here) or Mint Sauce (here).
Roast Rack of Lamb
with Caper Sauce
Himself thinks this is a grand feast altogether and likes me to serve it with buttery mashed potatoes and peas. Ask your butcher to French trim the lamb. There will probably be eight ribs in each rack.
Serves 4 to 6
2 racks of lamb, trimmed
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
A knob of butter
1 Tbsp sunflower or canola oil
2 tsp Dijon mustard
4 oz/113 g fresh bread crumbs
1 tsp chopped fresh rosemary
1 Tbsp chopped fresh herbs (mint, parsley, and thyme)
Caper Sauce (here)
Preheat the oven to 400°F/200°C. Season the lamb all over with salt and pepper. Heat the butter and oil in a large frying pan over a medium heat and brown the lamb on all sides. Now stand the ribs in a roasting tin opposite each other with the bones interlocked and paint with the mustard.
Mix the bread crumbs and all the herbs together and press down firmly onto the mustard. Cook for about 14 minutes for rare or for longer if you prefer it more well done. Allow to rest for at least 5 minutes, then carve and serve with Caper Sauce (here).
Roast Fillet of Lamb
Serves 4
1 lb/455 g best end of lamb fillet or lamb neck slice
1 garlic clove, crushed
2 rosemary leaves, finely chopped
2 Tbsp finely chopped fresh thyme
1 Tbsp finely chopped fresh mint
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
7 oz/200 ml Merlot or Cabernet Sauvignon
1 Tbsp olive oil
A knob of butter
Rub the lamb all over with the garlic, chopped herbs, salt, and pepper. Mix the oil and wine together and pour over the lamb. Place the lamb in the refrigerator and leave to marinate for up to 4 hours, turning over occasionally.
Preheat the oven to 400°F/200°C. Now heat the butter and a splash of olive oil in a hot frying pan until almost smoking and sear the fillet quickly on all sides for just a couple of minutes. Put the fillet in a roasting dish and cover loosely with foil. Roast for 8 to 10 minutes. If you prefer your lamb to be more well done, then cook it for a further 5 minutes. However, be careful not to overcook this, as it tastes wonderful while moist and still pink in the centre. Allow to rest for 5 minutes or so, then slice. Serve with Potato and Celeriac Mash (here), asparagus, and homemade Mint Sauce (here), with a red wine to match the marinade.
It’s a Knockout
“Here,” said O’Reilly, walking over from the sideboard to where I sat in an arm chair in the upstairs lounge on a September evening in 1964. He handed me a small sherry and said, “Well done.” He helped himself to half a Scotch egg from a plate Kinky had brought up earlier.
I smiled and said, “Thank you.” I confess I was feeling a little smug. Not an hour ago, under his supervision of course, I had successfully conducted my first home delivery since my days as a medical student at Belfast’s Royal Maternity Hospital.
He sat in another chair, raised his Jameson, said, “Cheers,” and took a swig. “I thought that went pretty smoothly,” he said. “Mind you, I’m not so sure the home’s the place for confinements anymore.”
“But,” I said, “we were taught that it was all right with the proper selection criteria to ensure that the patient fell into a low-risk category and now we have the flying squad…”
He chuckled and said, “What the locals refer to as ‘the firing squad.’ An ambulance with a senior obstetrical trainee, a midwife, and a couple of bottles of blood? They can render local first aid and get the patient to the hospital for more advanced treatment. I suppose it’s nice to have a backup. They certainly saved my bacon a couple of years back.”
“Saved your bacon,” I said, “Nice figure of speech…”
He frowned at me.
I should not have interrupted. “Do go on.” I said. “I’m all ears.” Certain Hindu devotees reputedly threw themselves under the wheels of a massive temple car, a Juggernaut, and were crushed to death. When O’Reilly was in a mood to reminisce, in like fashion it was easier for me to accept my fate than to try to change the subject.
“It was the year before you came. The schools of medicine and of nursing had each attached one of their students to the practice. Nice youngsters, but one night I could have killed them both.”
That was O’Reilly. He had a heart of corn, he was nothing but a teddy bear of a man, but he hid his softness behind a carefully constructed carapace as tough as that of a Galapagos giant tortoise.
“We’d finished for the day; at least we thought we were when the phone rang. I answered. A voice said, ‘Doctor O’Reilly, it’s the missus. Come quick; she’s bleeding.’”
“‘Who is this?’
“‘Andy McCann.”
“‘I’ll be right out.’ I knew that his wife, Agnes, was thirty-eight weeks pregnant so I phoned for the flying squad, grabbed my bag, bundled the students into the Rover, and took off. They lived in the housing estate,” O’Reilly said. “We got up there in about ten minutes.”
I shuddered to think of the trail of unseated cyclists O’Reilly would have left in his wake, but fair play to him, a bleeding pregnant woman was a case where dispatch was definitely indicated. The idea was encapsulated in a nursing adage. “One never ran in a hospital unless,” as the nurses said, “there was fire, bleeding—or a good-looking man.”
“Andy met us at the door. He said, ‘Upstairs.’ His eyeballs rolled up into his head, his knees buckled, and he crumpled. The poor devil had fainted right away. ‘Right,’ says I to the medical student, ‘you see to Andy.’ You know how narrow the staircases are in those wee estate houses.”
“I do.” They’d have done service in a mediaeval castle tower where the object of the exercise was to impede an enemy’s progress.
“Anyway I went first and the wee nurse followed. We got to the top and I could see Agnes in a double bed in a poky wee room to the right of the landing. ‘Follow me,’ says I to the nurse and she did. Now,” he said, “I’m no sylph…”
Which was understating the case. He stood six foot two and mus
t have been a good sixteen stone or, if you prefer, two hundred and twenty four pounds.
“But I just managed to squeeze between the bed and the wall. The nurse had less trouble following me, but to be charitable, the odds of her ever dancing the Sugar Plum Fairy were pretty remote.”
I had a mental image of a conversation between a pot and a kettle when the kettle’s degree of darkness is being alluded to.
“I called Agnes’s name but she was unconscious. Her pulse was thready and racing. The woman was in shock. I threw back the bedclothes and she was lying in a pool of blood. The nurse, who had no obstetric training, said, ‘Dear Mother of…’ and as she swooned she fell on top of me, pinning me between the bed and the wall.”
“What did you do?”
“Physically? Nothing, I couldn’t get enough purchase to get her off me so I yelled to the student, ‘Get up here. Now.’”
“I heard, ‘Coming,’ a ferocious thump, a gasp, and another body falling.” O’Reilly drank and ate more egg. “He never did appear, but about three minutes later the flying squad arrived just as the nurse was coming to. The young obstetrician told me that it looked as if the medical student had been bending over the husband, straightened up suddenly, hit his head on a hanging china cabinet, and…”