The kind people who gave me supper here and a drink there are too numerous to list, but for kindness, advice and assistance, and incidental hospitality I am especially indebted to the following: Captain Geoffrey Davis, Mr. Deslandes, Brian Starmer, Derek Johnson, and Mike Williamson (M.S.Venimos); Harry Haddad (Belém); Jack Henderson, Wayne Snell, Joseph Hocking (Yarina Cocha); Andrés Porras, Celeste Allen, Señor Rafael Larco Hoyle, Sir Berkeley and Lady Gage, Madeleine Vuillemin, Anna and John Timoney, Mr. Dum Tweedy, Señor Augusto Benavides, and Elizabeth and Ted Kiendl (Lima); Señora Estelle León de Peralta and her kind family, Señor Benjamino de la Torre, and Colonel Tooey (Cuzco); Peggy Cody (La Paz); Señores Fernando Menendez Behety, Jorge and Francisco Campos Menendez (Punta Arenas); Jaime Speroni, George Blackwell (Río Grande); Capitán Ernesto Campos, Señora and Señor Eduardo Menon (Ushuaia); T. L. Bridges (Viamonte); Peter de Rougemont, Roberto Corte Real (Rio de Janeiro); Otto Austel (Macauba).
   And finally, I would like very much to thank Andrés Porras and Wayne Snell, who have been good enough to inspect the finished journal which forms Chapter 6 of this volume for any errors or distortions.
   Index
   The page references in this index correspond to the printed edition from which this ebook was created. To find a specific word or phrase from the index, please use the search feature of your ebook reader.
   Acacia trees, 69
   Aconcagua, Mount, 82
   Agassiz, Louis, 33, 240
   Agostino, a boga, 195, 198, 201–202, 206, 209, 216, 258
   Agouti, 241
   Agriculture, 53, 62, 76, 134, 214
   Aguaruna Indians, 51
   Air plants, 44, 69, 159
   Alacalufe Indians, 91, 95, 105
   Albatross, 93–94
   Alder tree, 71
   Alejandro, a bearer, 181, 185, 187, 190–91, 193, 195, 198, 201–203, 205–207, 209, 215, 217, 221, 230, 244, 247, 254, 264–66
   Algae, 7–8, 110
   Allen, Celeste, 158
   Altiplano, 59, 73, 76, 80, 86
   Amahuaca Indians, 222, 227, 235, 239–40
   Amasisa tree, 229
   Amazon River, 22, 26, 142, 151, 228, 240; main channel of, 32; survey of, 29; temperature near, 28
   Amazonas, 23–24, 36, 46, 118; dangerous creatures of, 54; size of, 27; waters of, 24
   American Museum of Natural History, 261, 268
   Anaconda, 24–25, 32, 37, 53, 55
   Anápolis, Brazil, 119, 123, 128
   Anchoa, 116
   Andes, the, 204; Argentine, 80, 88; Bolivian, 80, 149; Chilean, 80–81, 86–89, 98; crossing of, 69; Peruvian, 51, 58–59, 65
   Angulo, Alejandro, 153
   Ani, 49, 168; groove-billed, 13
   Anta, Peru, 69
   Antilles Current, 7, 10
   Ant, 161; army, 165; biting, 165; black, 39, 135, 184; fire, 135; leaf-cutting, 186; stinging, 24; white, 40
   Ants’ nests, 40, 119
   Aracaras, Brazil, 142
   Araguarí River, 21
   Araguaya River, 120, 127–30, 140, 142
   Arara, 131
   Araucanian Indians, 113
   Arawak Indians, 16
   Architecture, modern, 117; South American, 115; Spanish, 62, 64
   Ardiles, Rudi, 181–84, 189–94, 197–98, 206, 211–14, 257, 260
   Argentina, 73, 79–81, 88–89, 97–98
   Argentino, Lake, 89
   Arrayolos furo, 32
   Artifacts, Inca, 114–15, 261; Indian, 91; pre-Inca, 114–15, 153, 261
   Ascensión, a boy, 170–71
   Atacama Desert, 60
   Atalaya, Peru, 56, 151, 154, 225, 227, 242–43
   Auca Indians, 48
   Austel, Otto, 131, 133, 137–39
   Ayahuasca, 262
   Ayesta, Fray Jaime, 211–12, 214, 217
   Aymara Indians, 73
   Ayoré Indians, 149
   Babassu tree, 131
   Bacanique, Peru, 187, 213
   Bahamas, the, 10
   Bahía Blanca, 113
   Bahía Grande, 112
   Bahía Negra, Paraguay, 146
   Balsa rafts, 164, 170, 174, 184, 193, 196, 207, 213
   Balsa tree, 184
   Bananal, Brazil, 138
   Bananas, 43, 125, 185, 214
   Banisteriopsis caapi, 262
   Barbados, 2, 4, 12–13, 18
   Barbasco plant, 48
   Barbet, 230
   Bariloche, Argentina, 85
   Basagoitia, Antonio, 221, 226, 262
   Basurco, Juan, 152, 254
   Bates, H. W., 29, 37, 40, 169, 193n., 251
   Bat, 43, 49, 225, 246–47; vampire, 24, 55
   Beagle Channel, 97, 105
   Beech tree, 92, 102, 109–10
   Belém, Brazil, 4, 21–24, 27, 119, 169
   Belén, Peru, 47
   Benjamin Constant, Brazil, 46
   Bermejo River, 81
   Bermuda, 2–3, 5–7
   Bignonia tree, 33
   Bingham, Hiram, 67, 70
   Birds, 3–7, 12–13, 15–16, 19, 119; of Argentina, 103, 109–10; of Bolivia, 74; of Brazil, 22, 27, 30, 33–36, 39–40, 43–46, 128, 130–132, 134–35, 140–42, 145; of Chile, 83–84, 91, 93–99; of Peru, 49, 53, 58, 61, 66–67, 71, 159, 163, 165, 168, 186, 188, 201, 204, 217–18, 220–21, 224–25, 227–30, 235–36, 245, 252
   Birds of La Plata, Hudson, 39, 228
   Black and Gold, 74
   Black Drunken River, see Yanatili River
   Blackwell, George, 102
   Blacque, Dorry and Ted, 77, 104
   Blue tang, 13
   Boa constrictor, 54
   Bogas, 195, 214–16, 258
   Bolaina tree, 218
   Bolivia, 31, 66, 71–72, 77, 80, 144, 146, 149
   Bolognesi, Peru, 246–47
   Bongoni maelstrom, 196
   Boobies, 18–19; piquero, 61–62; red-footed, 15
   Borora Indians, 143
   Borrachudo, 135
   Branco menor, 140
   Branco River, 193n.
   Brasilia, Brazil, 117–18, 121
   Brasilia-Belém highway, 119
   Brazil, 21, 23, 31, 46, 49, 55, 73–74, 145–47, 193n.; birds of, see Birds; forests of, 38; Indian Service, 137; interior of, 118–20; language of, 143
   Brazilian Adventure, Fleming, 136
   Brazilians, 115, 122, 126
   Brazilwood tree, 134
   Breadfruit tree, 17
   Bridges, Lucas, 101, 105, 108; quoted, 111
   Bridges, Oliver and Betsy, 103–105, 110
   Bridges, Thomas, 105, 108
   Bridges-Reynolds family, 100, 109
   British Guiana, 19
   Bromelia, 159
   Broom, Spanish, 66; yellow, 69
   Brown, John, 202
   Brunswick Peninsula, 94
   Buenos Aires, Argentina, 80–81, 110, 115
   Buenos Aires, Lake, 88–89
   Buenos Aires province, 81
   Bunch grass, 71
   Buriti palm, 141
   Burroughs, William, 262
   Bushmaster, 24, 54
   Butantan, Brazil, snake farm at, 116, 256
   Butterflies, 39, 168, 183–84, 186; helicon, 169; morpho, 49–50, 160, 168, 218, 229
   Button, Jemmy, 92, 105
   Cáceres, Brazil, 143
   Caco, Peru, 250
   Cacti, 69; Yucca, 66, 71
   Cahow, 6–7
   Caicos Islands, 10
   Caihaique, Chile, 87
   Caiman, 24, 37, 47, 53, 144, 146, 219–20, 234
   Calafate plant, 92, 97
   Callao, Peru, 51
   Calomito fruit, 50
   Camisea, Peru, 167, 256
   Camisea River, 219, 263
   Campa Indians, 230
   Campos, Captain Ernesto, 107
   Campos Geraes state, 34
   Campos-Menendez family, 92
   Camungo bird, 44
   Camus, Albert, 127
   Canaries Current, 7
   Candellaria del Gallardo, Señora, 96
   Candiru 
					     					 			, 24, 55
   Cannibalism, 91, 106
   Cannon-ball tree, 44
   Canoes, 131, 134, 150, 169–70, 174, 188, 211, 217, 228
   Canueira Indians, 140
   Canyons, 200
   Caoba tree, 239, 251
   Cape Horn Island, 106–107
   Capybara, 135, 234
   Caracara, 119, 130
   Caraja Indians, 127, 130–34, 136, 138
   Carancho, 103, 109
   Cardiel, Argentina, 89
   Carib Indians, 16
   Caribbean Sea, 15
   Cashibo Indians, 249
   Castelnau, Francis de, 267; quoted, 268
   Castries, Saint Lucia, 17
   Catfish, 227; piraiba, 32
   Catholic Church, 127, 258; see also Dominicans
   Cattle, 83, 119–20, 129, 134, 144, 227
   Cayenne, 21
   Cedro (cedar) tree, 134, 228, 239, 250–51
   Ceiba tree, 30, 33–34
   Céline, quoted, 18
   Centipo Indians, 51
   Century plant, 66, 125
   Cetico tree, 218
   Chama Indians, 249–50, 252
   Chapras Indians, 52
   Charapilla tree, 220
   Charlotte, Fort, 17
   Chesea River, 248
   Chicha, 66–67, 79
   Chico River, 112
   Children, Indian, 65, 71, 76–77, 131, 164
   Chile, 60, 73, 80–84, 88, 97, 113; see also Birds, of Chile
   Chilean Archipelago, 85–86
   Chilean Islands, 109
   Chiloé Channel, 86
   Chiloé Island, 82, 86
   Chimango, 83, 90, 103
   Cholo Indians, 66
   Chonta tree, 241
   Choqueyapu River, 77
   Christmas Day, 1959, 40–43
   Chubut River, 112
   Churches, 114–15
   Cinco Hermanos, 106
   Clam, 110
   Clark, Leonard, 37, 156–57, 210, 267
   Clothing, Indian, 65, 76–77, 139, 189, 195, 248–49
   Coboclo, 29, 34, 36, 40–41, 50
   Coca, 66, 160, 168, 187
   Cochabamba, Bolivia, 73–74, 114
   Coffee, 129, 160, 163, 188–89
   Coimbra, Fort, Brazil, 145–46
   Colbert, Edwin, 268
   Colombia, 26, 46
   Colorado River, 111, 113
   Comodoro Rivadavia province, 112
   Compleat Angler, The, Walton, 9
   Concepción province, 159
   Conibo Indians, 245, 248
   Conquest of Peru, Prescott, 64
   Conservation laws, 37
   Contraband, 21–23
   Cook, Frederick A., 106
   Coot, 67
   Copacabana Beach, 116
   Corcovado, Gulf of, 82, 85
   Corcovado, Mount, 86
   Cordilleras, 59, 83
   Coribene, Peru, 172, 175, 211–12, 260
   Coribene River, 171, 173
   Cormorant, 61–62, 93, 95–96, 107, 110; bigua, 30
   Corumbá, Brazil, 73, 143, 145, 147–148
   Cougar, 91
   Cox, Mrs. Bertha, 156
   Crocodile, 231, 234, 238, 251–52; white, 218, 229, 244
   Crocodilians, 24, 43, 48, 146, 234
   Cruz, César, 56, 151–52, 154–55, 161, 167, 171–73, 175, 205, 207, 210–11, 219, 222–23, 225–27, 230–31, 236–37, 241–44, 247–48, 251–55, 262, 268
   Cuba, 14
   Cuiaba, Brazil, 118, 143
   Culebra chicolillo, 165
   Curlew, eskimo, 91; Hudsonian, 96
   Cushma, 195, 214, 230
   Cuzco, Peru, 62–65, 69, 114, 153–155, 157–58, 162
   Dana, Richard Henry, 90
   Dances, 68, 71, 139
   Dandelions, 92, 97
   Darwin, Charles, 62, 90–92, 105–106; quoted, 86, 91–92, 104, 109, 113
   Darwin, Mount, 98
   Dawson Island, 94
   Deane, Peter, 99
   Deane, Jean and Tony, 116
   Deer, 130, 135, 140, 145, 204
   Demerara River, 19
   Deserts, Andean, 60, 82; Argentine, 89; Bolivian, 149; Patagonian, 112
   Devil’s Island, 21
   Diablotin, Mount, 16, 19
   Diez, Padre Manuel, 222, 224
   Diseases, 24, 105, 109, 153
   Dolphin, 93, 95; Commerson’s, 94; Geoffrey’s, 32, 35, 227; river, 246
   Domingo, Cape, 99
   Dominica, 16
   Dominican Republic, 15
   Dominicans, 171, 209–11, 213–14, 217, 221–22, 258–60
   Dove, 53, 66, 74, 168
   Dragon’s Mouth, 18
   Drunkenness, 57, 67–68, 79, 137–138, 178, 262
   Duck, 67, 93, 98, 130, 145, 204; Antarctic, 110; pintail, 109; sea, 107; “steamboat,” 96
   Duguid, Julian, 148–49
   Ecuador, 26, 48, 60
   Eel, 9; electric, 24, 55
   Ega, Brazil, 37
   Eginereu Teixera, Brazil, 128
   Egret, 30, 43, 49, 130, 132, 140, 145; cattle, 12; snowy, 33; white, 27, 34, 71, 145, 225
   El Encuentro, Peru, 154–55, 159–164, 226
   Emu, 128
   Encuentros, 196, 235, 242
   Equatorial Current, 7
   Estancia José Menendez, 100
   Estancia María Behety, 99–102
   Estancia Viamonte, 100, 104, 109
   Eucalyptus trees, 64–65, 69, 74
   Fagnano, Lake, 103, 107–108, 111
   Falcon, 229
   Falkland Islands, 111
   Fawcett, Colonel P. H., 37, 53, 55, 64, 122, 148; quoted, 31–32, 54, 269
   Fer-de-lance, 24, 54
   Fig tree, 33, 69
   Finch, 53, 168; cardinal, 228
   Fish, 9, 11, 13–14, 17–18, 22, 24, 32, 37, 43, 50, 102, 110, 116, 134, 220, 227, 240
   Fitz Roy, Captain, 92
   Flamingo, 71, 132
   Fleming, Peter, 136
   Flowers, 44, 49, 69–71, 84, 92, 96–97, 145, 159, 184, 204
   Flycatcher, 19, 39, 97, 135, 220
   Flying fish, 5, 9, 15
   Fordlandia, 34
   Forests, 86, 103; Bolivian, 146–47; Brazilian, 129
   Fossil jaw, 56, 150–52, 154, 223, 226–27, 231, 236–38, 248, 252, 254, 260–62, 268–69
   Fox, 101
   Frigate bird, 15, 19
   Frog, 57, 165–66
   Fruit, 50, 53, 108, 164
   Fuegian Indians, 91–92
   Fulmar, giant, 107
   Gallegas River, 112
   Gannet, 15
   Gaviota, sloop, 93–96
   Geese, 99; Caiquen, 101, 109; Magellan rock, 93; upland, 98
   Georgetown, British Guiana, 19
   Germans, 47–48, 83, 95
   Gibbon, Lardner, 267
   Ginsberg, Allen, 262, 269
   Giordia, Padre, 171–72, 175–76, 212
   Glaciers, 86, 103–104
   Glass, George, 128, 130–31, 138–142
   Goiania, Brazil, 118–20, 123, 142
   Goiás state, 117–18, 120–21, 130, 134, 141–42
   Golfo Nuevo, 112
   Golfo San Jorge, 112
   Gonaïves Gulf, 14
   Gonave Island, 14
   Gran Chaco, 81, 146
   Grease Creek, 237
   Great Inagua, 11
   Grebe, 67
   Green Hell, Duguid, 148, 166
   Gregorio, 163, 169
   Gregory, Professor, 210
   Grenada, 16–17
   Grenadine Islands, 17
   Groen, Mr., 12
   Grouper, 13
   Guabo fruit, 50
   Guacamayo, 220
   Guadaloupe, 16
   Guanaco, 89, 102
   Guano, 60–61, 101
   Guan, 181, 218
   Guaqui, Bolivia, 72
   Guaratinga, Brazil, 142
   Guianas, the, 21
   Gulf Stream, 3–5, 7
   Gull, 3–4, 19; Andean, 66; Belcher’s, 61; brown-hooded, 93; Franklin’s, 61; gray, 61; he 
					     					 			rring, 3, 5–6; kelp, 61, 93, 98; laughing, 19; serranita, 71
   Gurupí, Brazil, 140
   Haciendas, 159–60, 165, 173, 175, 188, 193, 207, 221, 225–26, 247, 251
   Haiti, 4, 11, 14
   Hambre River, 107
   Handbook of South American Indians, Herndon, 49
   Happy Days raft, 194, 197, 200–205, 209, 216–17, 266
   Harberton, Argentina, 100
   Hawk, 30, 34, 43, 46, 71, 83, 168, 218, 224, 229; black-breasted, 99; carrion, 98
   Henderson, Jack, 52
   Hermite Islands, 82, 85, 97, 106
   Herndon, Lieutenant William, 267; quoted, 29, 49
   Heron, 12, 43, 145, 224
   Hidden Lake, 107
   Hispaniola, 15
   Hoatzin, 30, 228, 239
   Hocking, Joseph, 53–56
   Horn, Cape, 82, 85, 97
   Hornets, 24, 135; nests of, 40
   Horse Latitudes, 8
   Horses, 102, 113; wild, 89, 98, 109
   Hoste Island, 106
   Hoyle, Rafael Larco, 153
   Huadquina hacienda, 159
   Huallaga River, 55, 169, 200, 212
   Huambisa Indians, 51
   Huayna Picchu, 70
   Hudson, W. H., 39; quoted, 228
   Humboldt Current, 60–61
   Hunting, 133, 234–35
   Ibis, 83, 97, 145
   Iguana, 57
   Illimani, Mount, 73
   Imbauba tree, 33
   Inca, steamer, 72
   Inca flower, 69
   Incas, 62–64, 67, 69, 114, 151
   Indian medicines, 50
   Indian villages, 76, 130–31, 136, 171–73
   Indians, 24, 31, 37, 40, 47, 52, 60, 62, 65–66, 71, 75, 77, 79, 127, 130-31, 133, 136–37, 139–41, 143, 145–46, 149–50, 153, 156, 171–73, 182, 187–89, 193, 195–197, 200–210, 214, 216–19, 221–222, 227–28, 230, 245, 248–50, 252, 257–60, 262, 268; ferocity of, 48, 91–92; horse, 113; hostile, 51, 56, 74, 105–106, 140–41, 157, 210, 235, 239–40, 263; killing of, 137; treachery of, 108
   Inias, 32, 35, 227
   Insects, 24, 55, 135, 144, 168, 220, 247, 251
   Inuya River, 56, 151, 154, 227–28, 235
   Ipé tree, 119, 141
   Iquitos, Peru, 21, 31, 46–47, 52
   Isla Bananal, 129–30
   Isla de Lobos, 116
   Islands, 60–61, 82, 85–86, 106–107, 111, 113, 142
   Jabiru, 130
   Jacaranda tree, 119
   Jacare, 146
   Jacoba tree, 134
   Jaegers, 4, 15; pomarine, 5, 11
   Jaguars, 24, 55, 135, 144, 160, 165
   Jararaca, 24, 54
   Jariuba Point, 32
   Javahe Indians, 130, 133, 140–41
   Javarí River, 46
   Jawbone, see Fossil jaw
   Jay, 221
   Jivaro Indians, 48, 50–51
   Jolly, Stratford, 155–56, 267; quoted, 191, 199